Is this chimney liner kit acceptable?

[Davor]

I'm installing a Heat N Glo Supreme i30 gas insert, and everything makes sense so far. I've decided to have the pros install the gas line and hook up the unit, but I'm prepping everything. When it comes to the chimney liner, I'm a bit concerned. (Since it is the one supplied by my retailer, I should probably feel okay, but I still have questions).

1. The kit includes a 30' length of 3" SS flex for exhaust and one shorter 4' length for intake. The Hearth and Home instructions say this is okay, but my concern is that I will now have a chimney full of cold air since there since the damper will be open/removed, won't this cause drafts? Should I make my own block off plate and insulate with some Roxul?

1. Why is there no insulation wrap for the SS liner? This is going to be very very hot running up my chimney and that just seems a bit crazy. Am I just being overly cautious?

 

[webbie]

I think you'd be fine just closing it off at the top and bottom. The smaller pipe stays fairly warm and the system is balanced, so you should not have to worry about the cold chimney.

 

[DAKSY]

I think you'd better check that liner. It doesn't need to be SS. Flexible aluminum is fine for that insert. You have a 30' length, & depending on the height of your chimney from the top of the insert, you may be able to cut it in half & still make both the exhaust & intake reach all the way to the cap...

 

[Davor]

You are right, it's a aluminum. I wasn't thinking.

Anyway, i'll see if there is enough to cover the distance for both intake and exhaust liners.

Finally, at the top, the manual only asks for caulking that can take up to 300 degrees. Basic, outdoor silicone is rated to 400. Is that okay, or do I need to go get the real stuff (eg. Rutland a high temperature silicone)?

 

[DAKSY]

You are right, it's a aluminum. I wasn't thinking.

Anyway, i'll see if there is enough to cover the distance for both intake and exhaust liners.

Finally, at the top, the manual only asks for caulking that can take up to 300 degrees. Basic, outdoor silicone is rated to 400. Is that okay, or do I need to go get the real stuff (eg. Rutland a high temperature silicone)?

Get the RTV. Do it right the first time...

 

[Davor]

Deal. And final question, what kind of screws do people use to attach the termination cap? Just some masonry screws?

 

[DAKSY]

Deal. And final question, what kind of screws do people use to attach the termination cap? Just some masonry screws?

If you've got a terra cotta tile lining in your masonry chimney, you won't need screws at all. There's a plate at the bottom side of your cap which needs to be formed to that lining, & bent to a square or rectangular shape, 1/4" larger than the tile...Use a Sharpie marker to layout the dimensions on the bottom side of the plate. For example, if you tile measures 8x12, layout the plate at 8-1/4x12-1/4, centered around the liner attachment flanges, & with the orientation of the exhaust flange of the plate on the same side as where the exhaust flange on the insert is located. Layout another set of lines 1" away (say at 10-1/4 and 14-1/4) from the tile dimensions & towards the outer edges of the plate. Using tin snips, cut on the outer edges of the second layout lines. Cut the (4) 1x1" corners off. Using a hand seamer, bend the (4) 1" tabs at 90 degrees & in the same direction as the liner flanges. The final configuration will give you a nice, clean, waterproof fit on the tile, Attach your liners to the flanges with 3/4" zipscrews & tape them together using aluminum tape every 6 feet or so. Mark the exhaust liner with black paint so you can ID it at the bottom of the chimney after the liners are dropped down...Insert the liners into the tile & lower until there's about a foot left out. Jam some unfaced fiberglass insulation around the liners & in the tile...Run a bead of GE 30-year silicone around the top surface of the terra cotta tile. Have someone pull the liners down to jam the cap onto the silicone bead & seat it securely. Jam more unfaced fiberglass into the area around the liners where they pass thru the damper area. Using 3/4" zipscrews, attach the liners to the flanges on the insert. Hope you are able to follow all this. If I've made anything unclear, let me know...

 

[Davor]

That is an amazing guide to installing. I had a buddy come over and help me install the liner kit today. The only hard part was that my roof is so steep it all had to be done on a ladder 26' up. Not my favorite thing to do, but it got done. Thanks again for your help!

 

[DAKSY]

That's why I'm here!