Is this installed right?!?!

[Hankjones]

Hey all, just wanted to start by saying, i just love this forum. Just started this year, learning a bunch, didn't know how addictive this could become. Thanks to everyone that contributes, what an awesome wealth of knowledge!

I got a Lopi Revere installed a few weeks ago, and have been burning with all the various tips i've found on this board. The thing is I get this impression that my insert is not as sealed as i would hope it to be. I had an installer come in install it, but was curious to see if there could be some leaks in the installation. Knowing this forum loves pictures. I'm posting a few. Now for the questions!

1) does this look like an okay install? They just drilled a screw to the top of the Insert and to the adapter. Kinda makes me thing there are holes in my stove now.
2) It seems that smoke would come out of the sides where the adapter and stovetop connects. I see a airgap, they had to cut out a part for the by-pass damper to work. Is that how it's done?
3) If i wanted to seal it up i was thinking of wrapping it with some sort of high temp tape, from the stovetop to the adapter and from the adapter to the liner (good idea? or Maybe some caulk? Maybe some cement?, if tapes a good idea, where do i get such a thing?)
4) Because of the high temperature in the firebox, do you think it could create enough pressure so some of the exhaust comes out of the cracks instead of out the top? Or do you think it'll always go out the top because of the draft?

 

[spacecowboyIV]

Hey all, just wanted to start by saying, i just love this forum. Just started this year, learning a bunch, didn't know how addictive this could become. Thanks to everyone that contributes, what an awesome wealth of knowledge!

I got a Lopi Revere installed a few weeks ago, and have been burning with all the various tips i've found on this board. The thing is I get this impression that my insert is not as sealed as i would hope it to be. I had an installer come in install it, but was curious to see if there could be some leaks in the installation. Knowing this forum loves pictures. I'm posting a few. Now for the questions!

1) does this look like an okay install? They just drilled a screw to the top of the Insert and to the adapter. Kinda makes me thing there are holes in my stove now.
2) It seems that smoke would come out of the sides where the adapter and stovetop connects. I see a airgap, they had to cut out a part for the by-pass damper to work. Is that how it's done?
3) If i wanted to seal it up i was thinking of wrapping it with some sort of high temp tape, from the stovetop to the adapter and from the adapter to the liner (good idea? or Maybe some caulk? Maybe some cement?, if tapes a good idea, where do i get such a thing?)
4) Because of the high temperature in the firebox, do you think it could create enough pressure so some of the exhaust comes out of the cracks instead of out the top? Or do you think it'll always go out the top because of the draft?

I am by no means an expert and I think most people would have trouble telling you if its correct or not, but I'll give you my opinion on your questions.
1. Install looks okay. I would personally not have drilled holes into the top of the insert, instead I would have used an appliance adapter and furnace cement. If you like you can buy one and cement over the holes that are drilled, but I can't see how it would be a problem like it is.
2. Smoke should not come out of small airgaps. Some coming out at startup is possible but once it gets heated up the draft will not allow any smoke out.
3. Use furnace cement if you want to seal it up.
4. The higher the temp in the firebox/flue, the less likely it is to leak exhaust out of the cracks. On a cold startup it is possible.

 

[oconnor]

The holes they drilled are into the surrounding steel box, not the firebox itself. Shouldn't be a problem, but that isn't usually required. The manual doesn't discuss how to secure the liner to the stove, but usually there are screw holes to be used - they may need to be accessed from inside the stove by removing the baffle plate.

You may get some smell from the fiberglass they used around the liner to block airflow - it can stink, but won't be a hazard.

 

[Rudyjr]

The Lopi Declaration I installed before Christmas for a buddy of mine came with the exact same angle brackets and screws. The installation instructions from Lopi tell you to space the three brackets evenly and use the self drilling sheet metal screws to attach to the top of the stove and connector just as yours is.

 

[cmonSTART]

Assuming the liner goes to the top it looks OK, just going by the pictures. Some inserts use brackets like that. Personally I wouldn't have used fiberglass, but I'm a picky person.

 

[Hogwildz]

That fiberglass is useless. Fiberglass does not block air passage. And if I remember correctly, has a melting point of 600 degrees. IN a chimney fire situation, that stuff will melt and create a nice mess.
Put a proper metal block off p[late in there and be done with it.
The screws and brackets on top are normal.
If there is a gap between the liner and the outlet, you can seal it with furnace cement. Don't use tape, it will burn off.
Id the liner insulated above the damper area? May need to be for code & chimney fire protection if the original chimney & liner is not up to par.
If the original flue liner is in good shape, then your good to go.
Enjoy

 

[Hankjones]

Thanks for all the advise! I did notice that the screws just went into the top plate of the convection chamber so i guess that's okay, i would have thought they would have some sort of nicer attachment instead of drilling holes into it. As for the gap between the adapter and the insert, I tested with some smoke and it did look like air was being drawn into the adapter, so i guess no smoke spillage there. I'll seal it up with some furnace cement anyways. I didn't like the fact that i could see a bit of flame through the crack. I do have an insulated liner above the fiberglass. Not sure if it was required by code, but it was recommend since I have a outside chimney stack. I did read about a proper metal block off plate, may have to start looking into that.
So far everything seems to be working well, I'm like all first time wood burners... bought wood hoping it was seasoned, but knew better after reading this forum... Stacked it for next year... Right now burning random bit of old wood mixed in some 2x4's.

 

[VCBurner]

I agree with Hogwildz comment about the fiberglass. IT IS NOT FIREPROOF or a proper vapor barrier. It only adds r value and is a marginal vapor barrier. In order to keep heat from rising up the flue you need a block off plate made of at least 24 gauge sheet metal (non galvinized,) and rock wool insulation or mineral wool above it. This insulation is the most commonly used by respectable professionals in this application. If I had paid for this installation, I certainly wold not accept fiberglass bats for that application. Looks like a cheap way of doing the job to me! I'm a union carpenter and often deal with insulating and fireproofing of commercial buildings. We use mineral wool to insulate walls and give them a more fire retardant value. Fiberglass insulatiuon is used to give walls a sound barrier and R-value. Yes it will burn if flames ever reach it, and melt if it gets hot enough and the stuff closest to the pipe will probably lose its R-value over a short period of time.