Is this masonry pass through safe?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

94SS

New Member
Dec 29, 2021
41
Lincoln, Nebraska
It’s about a 9 inch by 9 inch hole. 8 inch chimney and pipe is 8 inch into 7. Stove piping is about .040 inch thick. Tension of the wall ring is and height of the stove pipe holds the 8 to 7 inch reducer in place. Has a 1 to 2 inches of some type concrete but not a crock. This concrete rings appears to sit in some of material that looks to be a pale white material not sure if it’s wood but kind of looks like it’s not. House built in 1980. Thanks.

[Hearth.com] Is this masonry pass through safe? [Hearth.com] Is this masonry pass through safe? [Hearth.com] Is this masonry pass through safe? [Hearth.com] Is this masonry pass through safe?
 
What type of wall is behind that brick?
 
Hope that's not a bit of wood exposed underneath the thimble in the last picture.
 
Split level house with thin brick siding. Areas above the garage and back of house has regular wood siding. And behind the wood siding is just studs with insulation rolled in. No osb wall. Looking through ash clean out cinder block wall to chimney. Not sure if that is correct info needed. It looks like some intentionally cut a circle through a wood like material and put mortar in it.
 
There is a good chance this is not done properly. If there is wood under the thimble, it definitely is unsafe. There needs to be at least 12" separating the thimble from any combustibles like studs, drywall, siding, etc. from a clay thimble.
 
That is 12" of solid masonry. Wall passthroughs are rarely done properly for masonry chimneys through combustible walls. And it is the most common area where chimneys cause structure fires
 
What’s your favorite tools for cutting and grinding masonry in a wall like that? Thanks.
I use an arbor tech for cutting inside houses. And one of several sizes of impact hammers for chipping
 
  • Like
Reactions: Isaac Carlson
What’s the best way to buy a Ventis when ready? Was kind of hard to find on the web.

(broken link removed to https://www.occanada.com/us/en/venting/2100-insulated-chimney/firestops/cva-ith08-r/)
 
What’s the best way to buy a Ventis when ready? Was kind of hard to find on the web.

(broken link removed to https://www.occanada.com/us/en/venting/2100-insulated-chimney/firestops/cva-ith08-r/)
I call Olympia and order them but you can't do that. There are several places selling their stuff online.
 
Call the folks at WoodlandDirect.com - 844.497.6601 . They sell Champion chimney parts which is a rebrand of Ventis. Rockford also sells a masonry thimble (maybe also Ventis?)
This article should be helpful. It has a couple of alternative thimble suggestions:
 
Call the folks at WoodlandDirect.com - 844.497.6601 . They sell Champion chimney parts which is a rebrand of Ventis. Rockford also sells a masonry thimble (maybe also Ventis?)
This article should be helpful. It has a couple of alternative thimble suggestions:
I saw the article and my first though was do I really have to cut the brick out to 15 3/4 by 15 3/4 inch. No point in having masonry if you have to fix anything. Then you better get tools to not put brick dust in the air.
 
On these insulated thimbles is rigid for putting your standard pipe through the thimble and tee snout end only for passing liners through the thimble? Almost as bad as trying to figure out stihl bar and chains without the bar and chain catalog.
 
On these insulated thimbles is rigid for putting your standard pipe through the thimble and tee snout end only for passing liners through the thimble? Almost as bad as trying to figure out stihl bar and chains without the bar and chain catalog.
They make one that comes with a tee snout for a stainless liner and one with straight pipe for a masonry liner
 
I saw the article and my first though was do I really have to cut the brick out to 15 3/4 by 15 3/4 inch. No point in having masonry if you have to fix anything. Then you better get tools to not put brick dust in the air.
You have to cut the masonry big enough to allow the base of the thimble through. I usually cut it round not square. The trim plate then covers your cut
 
I saw the article and my first though was do I really have to cut the brick out to 15 3/4 by 15 3/4 inch. No point in having masonry if you have to fix anything. Then you better get tools to not put brick dust in the air.
Scroll down. The article continues on to describe other options including insulated thimbles from Dalsin and Heat-Fab.
 
You have to cut the masonry big enough to allow the base of the thimble through. I usually cut it round not square. The trim plate then covers your cut
Know of any businesses that sell the arbor tech online or best to just buy from the manufacturer? Looks like they are out of Massachusetts.
 
Know of any businesses that sell the arbor tech online or best to just buy from the manufacturer? Looks like they are out of Massachusetts.
It's an Australian company. And the all saw I use is roughly $1000. You can do a decent job controlling the dust with a grinder that has a dust shroud.
 
Olympia started in Scranton pa. They recently combined with Copperfield. Olympia claims they bought Copperfield but I don't know.

And they sell under different names through some online sellers. I honestly don't know what they do in the Canadian market