JØTUL F 100 NORDIC QT Baffle Replacement / assembly manual

[jimk0157]

Hello,

I have a Jotul F 100 Nordic wood stove that I've been using heavily for the past 4 years. The cast iron baffle that is directly exposed to the fire at the top of firebox seems to be deformed by all that heat over the years and now droops down into the firebox perhaps an inch or so lower than when new. I called the dealer and they are ordering me a replacement (under warranty). They claim I can just lift out the old one without disassembling anything else (it does sit loosely in a notch) to replace. That may have been true before it deformed, but now there does not seem to be enough play to remove it. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and what might be an easy way to replace this is. I suppose I could take the stove apart but I can seem to find a assembly manual anywhere, only an exploded parts diagram, and this seems like a good way to kill a weekend if I'm winging it. The other thought I have is to try to cut old the old damper with a small side arm grinder to avoid disassembling.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim K.

 

[begreen]

I haven't worked on the F100 but if it's like other Jotuls the top should come off for servicing. By the parts diagram it looks like it's gasketed and made to be removed. Not sure how it is secured though. If like the F3CB there will be an allen screw at the top edge of each side. If like the larger Jotuls there will be a couple bolts on the underside. @BrotherBart do you know?

 

[BrotherBart]

It it is drooping down then the warp won't keep it from coming out. Take a rubber hammer or something and whack the baffle upward right in the middle to knock it loose. Then lift it up and slide it to the left or right to drop one end down and then lift the other end off of the top of the side burn plate to lower the baffle into the firebox.

 

[stovelark]

x2 with BB. It just sits on the side lips. It usually comes down easily, if deformed finish breaking it in two pieces. I would avoid breaking the seal of the stove body if possible.

 

[jimk0157]

Thanks for the advice. The baffle is loose but apparently it has deformed in such a way that made it slightly wider and now does not have enough play to remove. Any tips on cutting it out??

 

[sesro1978]

Not to hijack the thread, but we just put an F100 in our house (new). Is a drooping baffle a common problem? Sounds like it might be overfiring?

Thanks for any info.

 

[BrotherBart]

Not to hijack the thread, but we just put an F100 in our house (new). Is a drooping baffle a common problem? Sounds like it might be overfiring?

Thanks for any info.

The one in this thread is the first one I have ever heard of. In fact with the flame impingement ridge across the center top of the baffle for the life of me I can't see how the thing could warp.

 

[Mikeathome]

Hi All,
this is timely. I am going to replace the baffle in our F100 for the second time this winter (2018-2019). The first one lasted six years and I installed the replacement in October 2013--five years ago. I replaced the first one because it was hanging so far down into the firebox that it was getting hard to load it up with wood. The current one is not drooping as much yet but I want to get prepared to replace it and order the baffle now.

Just like the original poster, I was unable to take baffle out when I replaced it in 2013. My solution was to drill a few holes in a row by the left front tab and then brake off that corner and tab by hitting it with a punch/chisel and a hammer along the predrilled line. It was a very quick operation. The cast iron drilled easily with a small electric drill and it only took a few hits with the hammer to brake it off. Certainly it was much quicker than the time it took me to come up with a plan . Hopefully this suggestion will be useful for someone else.

It is a good stove for our 100 year old electrically heated 900sq ft house. Of course it does not stay lit throughout the night but it heats up quickly once we light it again the morning. We only have to light it in the morning on the coldest days of the year. For the rest of the heating season, our house is warm enough for us just from the evening fire.

By the way, we seem to get better use of our stove than the many friends who tend to have much bigger stoves. Of course, their houses are bigger but nevertheless, I suspect that their stoves are dramatically oversized for their needs because they usually have to open doors or windows to manage the heat in in the room(s) when we visit while the stove is lit.

Cheers

 

[willy t]

Hello,

I have a Jotul F 100 Nordic wood stove that I've been using heavily for the past 4 years. The cast iron baffle that is directly exposed to the fire at the top of firebox seems to be deformed by all that heat over the years and now droops down into the firebox perhaps an inch or so lower than when new. I called the dealer and they are ordering me a replacement (under warranty). They claim I can just lift out the old one without disassembling anything else (it does sit loosely in a notch) to replace. That may have been true before it deformed, but now there does not seem to be enough play to remove it. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and what might be an easy way to replace this is. I suppose I could take the stove apart but I can seem to find a assembly manual anywhere, only an exploded parts diagram, and this seems like a good way to kill a weekend if I'm winging it. The other thought I have is to try to cut old the old damper with a small side arm grinder to avoid disassembling.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim K.

 

[willy t]

Hello
I recently had the same issue with my F100. After talking with a local dealer, he informed me that the easiest way to get the baffle out if it can't come out the front due to excessive sagging, is to take to top of the stove off. It is held on by two 10mm bolts, one on each side. You have to access them from the top flue collar opening. After I took the top off, it still wouldn't come out, so I took the damper mechanism off, which is attached by two 10mm bolts, then it came out easily. You will have to replace the gasket on the top, but that is simple.

 

[f100]

I had an F100 from 2002 until last year when I upgraded to an F3. The chimney was cleaned two or three times a year from the bottom up. To do this I would remove the ash lip and take a screw driver and pry gently on the side plates. They can be removed easily allowing the baffle to drop down. I too had a warped baffle, for which it jammed the side plates. The bottom plate needed to be removed by slowly prying it upwards from the front. The side and bottom plates are fit together without fasteners, similar to a 3D puzzle. If you remove the bottom plate it gives you a good opportunity to clean the fine ash out between the bottom plate and bottom of the stove. Good stove, only problem I had in 17 years was the baffle and door gasket.

 

[willy t]

The baffle lasted 10 years, so I guess I can't complain. Was an adventure getting it out! New one went in easy.

 

[Lise p]

My jotul f100 baffle dropped down because I poked a piece of wood into it. I looked every where to find out how it was meant to sit, and as I couldn’t find it anywhere am posting it here. I hope this will be helpful to some one. My husband fitted it just by feeling his way as it’s awkward to look into this tiny stove while working on it.

 

[willy t]

My jotul f100 baffle dropped down because I poked a piece of wood into it. I looked every where to find out how it was meant to sit, and as I couldn’t find it anywhere am posting it here. I hope this will be helpful to some one. My husband fitted it just by feeling his way as it’s awkward to look into this tiny stove while working on it.

Thanks for the post, mine was a bit different as I had to replace it because it warped so much from the heat that it sagged down in the middle, making it difficult to fully load. The baffle just sits on the side plates.

 

[dunjan]

Lise P - Thanks for posting these pics. I've been pulling my hair out trying to work out how the plates should be configured. This photo helped confirm that I didn't have the baffle plate quite in the right position. As a result, there was a gap at the back of the firebox allowing smoke/hot air exit straight up the chimney and my burner struggled to get up to temperature.
After much rejigging i figured out that I had the base and side plates in the wrong position so the baffle wouldn't sit low enough. To get them in the right position I had to install them in this order:

1. Install side plates
2. Bottom plate - pig to get in. Involves lots of swearing.
3. Baffle plate - pig to get in. More swearing.