John Deere 212

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

1996Brand

New Member
Apr 25, 2022
5
Bowling Green Ohio
Hey all, I have a john deere 212 that starts up and runs fine but after about 10-15 minutes of mowing it will backfire and die. When I go to restart it, it sounds like there is no fuel in the cylinder. I have replaced the points, coil, condenser and fuel line and cleaned the tank. If anyone might have something else I should try I would greatly appreciate it
 
Seafoam couldn't hurt ...
1650971952975.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: salecker
Check to make sure your fuel cap is venting. When it dies, open your gas cap and if there is a whooshing sound, its not venting.
 
Does it have a low-oil shutoff protection? It may run for a bit, kick up oil, trip sensor which kills spark until the oil settles, then run again. Ask me how I know.
 
Ditto duramaxman05. When a stock engine dies after several minutes of running fine, it's nearly always either a bad coil or a clogged fuel vent.
 
  • Like
Reactions: duramaxman05
Does it have a low-oil shutoff protection? It may run for a bit, kick up oil, trip sensor which kills spark until the oil settles, then run again. Ask me how I know.
I believe the 212 has a kohler k series engine with splash lube. I don't think they have a low oil sensor because the were known to sling a rod through the block if mowing on steep hills to long.
 
I believe the 212 has a kohler k series engine with splash lube. I don't think they have a low oil sensor because the were known to sling a rod through the block if mowing on steep hills to long.
Only engine I ever toasted in my entire life was a Kohler K301. The thing ate oil, that much I knew, but apparently my assumption of consumption was a tad lower than reality. Broke the connecting rod at the crank end connection, when she ran dry.
 
  • Like
Reactions: duramaxman05
Only engine I ever toasted in my entire life was a Kohler K301. The thing ate oil, that much I knew, but apparently my assumption of consumption was a tad lower than reality. Broke the connecting rod at the crank end connection, when she ran dry.
Very common. I had. Case 220 with a k241 kohler with a broke rod. My fiend had either a 316 or 317 and it slung a rod out the side. That was interesting. Lol
 
Check the valve adjustment. If there's not enough clearance, it may run when it's cold but when the valve stem gets hot, it lengthens, clearance goes away, valve won't seat, engine may back fire and not run until cool again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: duramaxman05
Thanks for the help guys. I tried seafoam and a new gas cap with no results. So today I re adjusted the carb and also adjusted the valves also with no results. I don't know if it's possible I got a bad coil when I bought it or if there are other things I should look for
 
Any updates?
 
I had a similar experience last fall on a usually very reliable Honda GX200, engine would fire once after a couple of pulls on choke but never keep running. Replaced the carb and had an older head that was fine but still no luck. Then I saw a mention about coils that could be finicky so since I had replaced all the other components I got a new coil, voila, everything ran like a dream from then on. One would figure that since it would fire a couple of times under choke that it was getting proper spark but apparently that's not always the case.
 
Yep. Suggested it in post #5, as I've had that experience. But Op has already tried two coils, meaning they'd have some pretty uniquely bad luck, for that to be a cause of their troubles.

1996Brand, you didn't go back to the old coil, did you? You should stay on the new one, at least until you find the source of trouble.
 
Yep. Suggested it in post #5, as I've had that experience. But Op has already tried two coils, meaning they'd have some pretty uniquely bad luck, for that to be a cause of their troubles.

1996Brand, you didn't go back to the old coil, did you? You should stay on the new one, at least until you find the source of trouble.
It can happen, especially if trying aftermarket coils.
 
Yep. Suggested it in post #5, as I've had that experience. But Op has already tried two coils, meaning they'd have some pretty uniquely bad luck, for that to be a cause of their troubles.

1996Brand, you didn't go back to the old coil, did you? You should stay on the new one, at least until you find the source of trouble.
I did not put the old coil back on. Everything I've change I have not put the old part back on
 
Yes the motor will turn over freely with the starter but it sounds like it is spinning over with no fuel in the cylinder
Ok, following down @Jags path. When you say turns over freely after it dies, does it feel like it still has compression at that point? Or does it truly spin over super easy like there's no compression? (You may have to recreate the hot stop scenario, and then spin it over by hand to determine.)
 
Ok, following down @Jags path. When you say turns over freely after it dies, does it feel like it still has compression at that point? Or does it truly spin over super easy like there's no compression? (You may have to recreate the hot stop scenario, and then spin it over by hand to determine.)
I'm still leaning toward that intake valve sticking open when it gets hot. You mentioned the valve lash is good which rules out my first suspicion. But that valve stem could be ever so slightly bent, the valve guide/stem could be all gunked up from long term storage, or the use of bad fuel over the years has caused some scoring.