joining 2 different roofs

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zrock

Minister of Fire
Dec 2, 2017
1,564
bc
I have an addition on my modular home and the previous owner stepped the roof down by about 3-4 inches on the addition instead of keeping them even. i always have issues with snow and crap getting blown in into the gap. This summer i plan on replacing the metal roofing since i have a few leaks and cannot find where they are, will be putting a membrane down as well.. Trying to figure out the best way of sealing this gap without cutting 2x4 into strips and changing the pitch of the roof so it matches.. Really do not want to have to re sheet the whole roof if possible.. I know when i do the roof im going to cut the old sheeting back a foot or so and extend it so its almost touching the mobile home and fill in that gap since that gap is about 4" as well. If the main roof did not have a few vents sticking out of it i would pull the tin off the main roof and extend it farther down to meet the addition roof and just shim up that area..
 
I have an addition on my modular home and the previous owner stepped the roof down by about 3-4 inches on the addition instead of keeping them even. i always have issues with snow and crap getting blown in into the gap. This summer i plan on replacing the metal roofing since i have a few leaks and cannot find where they are, will be putting a membrane down as well.. Trying to figure out the best way of sealing this gap without cutting 2x4 into strips and changing the pitch of the roof so it matches.. Really do not want to have to re sheet the whole roof if possible.. I know when i do the roof im going to cut the old sheeting back a foot or so and extend it so its almost touching the mobile home and fill in that gap since that gap is about 4" as well. If the main roof did not have a few vents sticking out of it i would pull the tin off the main roof and extend it farther down to meet the addition roof and just shim up that area..
Pictures needed for opinions. I bet there is a solution.
 
I agree, pics would help.
The boss I worked for when I started construction would always say, “You have to think like a raindrop.” Well, raindrops (or snow or ice in this case) don’t think, but they sure can be devious buggers.
Ice and water shield should go behind the siding (siding should be taken off first for best results) up to (or preferably beyond the soffit if the gap is only 3-4 inches, nice corner from wall to roof with no breaks or tears. Tin goes up to the wall, not cutting ice and water shield during install. End wall flashing installed with one leg behind siding, and one leg on top of tin. But the ice or snow could be getting up into the soffit and thus into your attic and home above the wall, so these practices wouldn’t help in that scenario.
 
ya ill have to get some pic's next time I'm up taking snow off the roof... In reality the roof should be a torch on since their is barley any slope im guessing 3" over 12 feet. That is why i want to put a membrane under the tin this time since their is next to no slope i have to get up their in the winter when the snow gets deep and shovel it off, so with a torch on i would just be damaging it. The previous owner used printing press tin to join the roofs pretty much the thinnest alum you can find..LOL. thinking the reason behind that is they made the roof slightly larger than the longest roofing they could find locally so in reality they were about a 6-10 inches short on every run. If that is the case ill have to add a section to each run or order some longer lengths from out of town and make sure it has a good overlap..
 
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I’ve and water shield is wonderful stuff! I covered the entire roof of my cabin in it before I installed the new metal.

Pics would certainly help.
 
When doing carpentry you need to keep assorted size stock of wood. 2x4, 2x3, 1x4,1x3 etc. Also plywood, 1/8, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 etc. to make up space appropriately.