Hey - I have had this stove 2 seasons and have read on here enviously of the secondary burn. I have built fires ranging from small and hot to big and hot - as big as this stove will allow and can't seem to get the famed secondary burn. Can i make sure i understand? Gases coming off the fuel get re-introduced to combustion air and complete the burn, also coming out of the holes in the burn tubes across the top of the firebox? I feel unfulfilled not being able to make this happen....any help?
Jotu F3CB - secondary burn?
- Thread starter f3cbboy
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
NOT trying to compare the f3 with tthe oslo, but where do you have your air setting when you have burns like the one in the video. Once i get a rolling fire i cut the air back to almost closed over about 10 mins or so. just trying to say that i don't just shut it down right away. Maybe i am not gettin the sec burn due to not having enough air flow??
f3cbboy said:
My BIL has a really nice Ivory enamel F3CB and when I visit, I sometimes run the stove for him. It runs very similar to my Oslo .....only diff is the draft control is on the top right, its smaller and the burn tubes are triangular.
I treat both stoves the same, I leave the draft control wide open till the wood is charred and the temp is above 500+ (depending on the load and temps outside)
Then I shut the draft control down 75% or more.
Can you easily get your F3 up to 500-600 ?
WoodButcher
yes i can get the F3CB up on the 500-550 range in temps. Although i don't every time that the stove is reloaded. Should I? I should also say that i don't pay attention to it everytime also. i just reload with new wood - depending on the size of the splits about 3 or 4 pieces- wait for the fire to get rolling then knock it down to almost closed - maybe about 90% closed. My air control is on the top right as well. My startup air is a register on the door of the unit. What i mean by let the fire get rolling is basically the same as what you are saying all the pieces are fully involved and contributing in the fire.
Thanks for the help i'll have to pay more attention to temps and see what happens...
Thanks for the help i'll have to pay more attention to temps and see what happens...
Here's my F3 CB with secondary action - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuSwPVsnv_E . Basically I burn on full air to char the wood and get the stove top thermometer to 400F. Then I ease it down 20% or so every couple of minutes. I leave the air open just a little bit probably not even an 1/8" inch. Then she cruises between 500 and 550F. With the air lever fully closed, I ran a pencil along the left side of lever channel, so I can tell where fully closed is. If you are not getting secondary burn and the flames are bright yellow or white rather than yellow orange or blue, you may have an air leak.
- Status
Similar threads
