Hi, I have a Jotul 500 purchased new in 2000. This year it was sometimes burning pretty hot despite having the air intake turned all the way down. The gaskets are in pretty good order, so a friend installed a stove pipe damper about a week ago. Ever since then it's really difficult if not impossible to get a good hot fire going. It burns but it's as if the air intake is always halfway or more closed. Yes the damper is fully open. I want the thing out of the pipe but with sub-zero temps I can't let the stove cool off long enough to have it done. Is it likely to be the damper or is that a coincidence?
Jotul 500 issues
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With a damper open, it shouldn't diminish your draft to the point where you are having problems like you describe.
Are you getting any smoke back in the house when opening the door? Have you checked the cap / inspected the flue to make sure you don't have any restrictions?
Any chance you switched to a new wood pile or different wood that isn't as well seasoned?
pen
Are you getting any smoke back in the house when opening the door? Have you checked the cap / inspected the flue to make sure you don't have any restrictions?
Any chance you switched to a new wood pile or different wood that isn't as well seasoned?
pen
No smoke in the house. The wood's the same and seasoned since May, though it is burning like damp wood at this point. No, haven't checked the flue, just because this happened immediately after the damper went in so it seemed the obvious thing to blame. But if that's not the case, I'll have to look for other trouble spots. Thanks, I feel better not having to be pissed off at my friend anyway.
X2 to what Pen just said.
Years ago I had a damper handle that got out of sync with the damper itself. Drove me nuts till I figured that out.
I doubt that is your problem though.
Try this. Open the door with the damper open..then with the door open close it to see if smoke tries to enter the room.
Pay attention to the position of the handle as you do this.
Actually you should feel the damper close in the closed position.
Like I said,I doubt it is your problem but you never know.
Years ago I had a damper handle that got out of sync with the damper itself. Drove me nuts till I figured that out.
I doubt that is your problem though.
Try this. Open the door with the damper open..then with the door open close it to see if smoke tries to enter the room.
Pay attention to the position of the handle as you do this.
Actually you should feel the damper close in the closed position.
Like I said,I doubt it is your problem but you never know.
Depending on the wood species, cut, split, stacked since May might not be enough, especially if it was stacked deeper than single rows, uncovered, etc.
I'm betting that's part of the problem. I'd try pulling some wood from a different part of the pile, and maybe even splitting some pieces down a bit further and try loading things up again and see what happens.
I'm betting that's part of the problem. I'd try pulling some wood from a different part of the pile, and maybe even splitting some pieces down a bit further and try loading things up again and see what happens.
Ok, I got smoke the moment I turned the handle to closed. So it's good to know it's working anyway, thanks.
While you are out, take the binoculars with you and check that chimney cap out really well too just to make sure there isn't build-up restricting things.
No problem and if nothing else we just ruled that out.
I bet it's pretty cold there.
I have noticed here that usually when it's colder my draft pics up. That said I have also noticed that when it's real real cold the stove can burn a little lazy at times unless I give it more air then I normally do.
Strange deal.
It is really cold, we'll have a high of 3 degrees today and 15 below predicted for tonight. At this point all I can do is crack the loading door to give it more air and get it burning hotter. Rats.
You should actually lose temp doing that..at least in the room.
You may get the stove hotter because of bigger flames but you will be sucking heat out of the room.
When the door is closed and the stove has settled in are you getting good secondary's after a reload?
The Oslo usually has great primary air control. A damper in the flue should usually not be needed. Suggest that you check for air entry at all of the usual gaskets, particularly also the rear pipe and flange. On my last fall cleaning, two (2) issues were found:
1. The gasket under the rectangular adapter was allowing air entry.
2. The flue pipe adapter at the very first pipe connection had a gap, that also allowed air entry.
Both were major contributors, when corrected returned a complete and usual excellent primary air control. Yes, my advice is that your damper needs to go!
1. The gasket under the rectangular adapter was allowing air entry.
2. The flue pipe adapter at the very first pipe connection had a gap, that also allowed air entry.
Both were major contributors, when corrected returned a complete and usual excellent primary air control. Yes, my advice is that your damper needs to go!
That's my thought too, but it's going to have to wait till the temps go above freezing at least.
No, not like it used to be when the stove was newer. And then only when the fire was really robust.
Different wood, checking flues, gaskets and connections and ditching the damper are on the to-do list. Thanks a heap.
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