Jotul 602 CB Install

[Todd]

Finally installed my 602 in my new log cabin ive been working on since Aug. The stove will be heating 600 sq ft but the cabin also has a 200 sq ft loft and open great room so this stove will be pretty much maxed out.

I have 9' Excel double wall and 12' Excel class A straight up, corner install venting out the back of the stove. Draft is excellent.

So far it has kept up with outside temps dropping into the teens and highs in the 30's. I've been burning low and slow with the warmer temps hopefully when it dips below zero again it will keep up.

I thought after reading many reviews on this stove that I'd have to feed this stove every 2-6 hours and that may be true if burning hot but I've found this stove capable of a much longer burn. The last two nights with a mix of Locust and Maple I had 9 and 8 hour burns with plenty of coals for the next load of splits . The stove is very simple to use with the single air control on the door. Rake the coals forward, load splits, open air full, burn 5-15 min then adjust air down to desired output.

I'll try and post some pics and updates later.

 

[jatoxico]

Good luck with it, look forward to seeing pics of the stove and cabin. Did you have another heat source installed or is it wood or bust?

 

[Todd]

Eventually ill have propane but right now its strictly wood.

 

[Trinity]

I have the same stove and here is a word of caution. The top steel plate on the baffle will probably warp. A few people here have already posted pictures of the warped top plate. I really stinks when it happens because a replacement is almost $400 and you have to take the stove apart to fix it. How this happens ???? I still don't know, I personally think that the steel plate they use is too thin and a slight higher temp than normal and you have a warped plate. You can't just buy the plate, you have to buy the whole baffle.

I've had mine for over 5 years. It does a good job at heating the 600sf where it is located. I normally fill it up around 11pm with the vents open slightly and ill still have good coals at 8am to re-fire. When the temps drop into the single digits it is a pretty hungry stove. I like it but I think I am going to sell it and get a slightly bigger one with a firebox that will take 16"-18" logs as it's very hard to get 12" logs delivered in my area.

JOTUL 602

 

[begreen]

FWIW, I load 16" wood into our F602. It just fits. We don't have any 12" wood except for cutoffs.

 

[Trinity]

FWIW, I load 16" wood into our F602. It just fits. We don't have any 12" wood except for cutoffs.

Yes, the 16in just fits but its real snug. I broke the glass once trying to maneuver a 16in log into the stove. Seems that 12" are perfect. Has your metal plate on the baffle warped at all ?? What temp do you run yours at ??

 

[begreen]

I have the original F602, no glass and cast iron baffle. It's a bit more forgiving of packing it tightly, but not as efficient.

 

[SpaceBus]

Good luck with it, look forward to seeing pics of the stove and cabin. Did you have another heat source installed or is it wood or bust?

Same here, I love little stoves.

 

[Trinity]

I have the original F602, no glass and cast iron baffle. It's a bit more forgiving of packing it tightly, but not as efficient.

I do know the stove you have, it's sturdier. They should have kept the cast iron baffle.

 

[Todd]

I have the same stove and here is a word of caution. The top steel plate on the baffle will probably warp. A few people here have already posted pictures of the warped top plate. I really stinks when it happens because a replacement is almost $400 and you have to take the stove apart to fix it. How this happens ???? I still don't know, I personally think that the steel plate they use is too thin and a slight higher temp than normal and you have a warped plate. You can't just buy the plate, you have to buy the whole baffle.

I've had mine for over 5 years. It does a good job at heating the 600sf where it is located. I normally fill it up around 11pm with the vents open slightly and ill still have good coals at 8am to re-fire. When the temps drop into the single digits it is a pretty hungry stove. I like it but I think I am going to sell it and get a slightly bigger one with a firebox that will take 16"-18" logs as it's very hard to get 12" logs delivered in my area.

JOTUL 602

Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye on it. Most of my splits are 14-15" and they work pretty good but I can see some extra splitting in my future, some are just too thick. Looks like 3-4" is ideal. I have 20 wooded acres so I harvest my own firewood, mostly Aspen and Oak.

 

[Trinity]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye on it. Most of my splits are 14-15" and they work pretty good but I can see some extra splitting in my future, some are just too thick. Looks like 3-4" is ideal. I have 20 wooded acres so I harvest my own firewood, mostly Aspen and Oak.

I agree that the optimal diameter is under 5" thick. I end up splitting all the logs I get every year to make them smaller in diameter. It's a lot of work and I hate touching my firewood 5 times. It's a good stove but honestly for my application I should have went with a bit larger of a stove that takes a 16in log minimum. The warped baffle is a horrible defect in the stove construction. I hope it doesn't happen to yours but beware of running it too hot..... and I don't know what too hot is. I run mine at 550-650 and mine warped. I use an infrared point thermometer to monitor temp.

 

[Todd]

A few pics

 

[Todd]

I agree that the optimal diameter is under 5" thick. I end up splitting all the logs I get every year to make them smaller in diameter. It's a lot of work and I hate touching my firewood 5 times. It's a good stove but honestly for my application I should have went with a bit larger of a stove that takes a 16in log minimum. The warped baffle is a horrible defect in the stove construction. I hope it doesn't happen to yours but beware of running it too hot..... and I don't know what too hot is. I run mine at 550-650 and mine warped. I use an infrared point thermometer to monitor temp.

I need to get a new stove top therm. I've just been monitoring the internal flue temps which have been running between 300-600. Where are you placing your stove top therm? I was thinking between the cooking plate and top flue collar plate.

 

[SpaceBus]

I need to get a new stove top therm. I've just been monitoring the internal flue temps which have been running between 300-600. Where are you placing your stove top therm? I was thinking between the cooking plate and top flue collar plate.

Put it on the hottest part of the stove. Does the manual even specify any temps? The flue thermo is probably the most important part. You install looks sharp!

 

[Trinity]

I need to get a new stove top therm. I've just been monitoring the internal flue temps which have been running between 300-600. Where are you placing your stove top therm? I was thinking between the cooking plate and top flue collar plate.

Great install. I take the temp on the pipe about 3 inches up from the stove. It's the only place that's single wall pipe. I have double wall the rest of the way so that isn't an accurate temp.

 

[Todd]

Put it on the hottest part of the stove. Does the manual even specify any temps? The flue thermo is probably the most important part. You install looks sharp!

The manual doesn't specify where to place a thermometer but it does say once temps reach 400-600 adjust air to desired output.

The cooking plate is the hottest part of the stove, I think it's cast aluminium and I've read temps can reach a few hundred degrees more than the cast iron around it.

 

[begreen]

You are doing ok. The flue temp is more important. If you get a stovetop thermometer, put it about 3" in front of the flue collar.

How is the cabin warming up? Is the loft area a lot warmer? A ceiling fan will help circulate the heat.

 

[Trinity]

The manual doesn't specify where to place a thermometer but it does say once temps reach 400-600 adjust air to desired output.

The cooking plate is the hottest part of the stove, I think it's cast aluminium and I've read temps can reach a few hundred degrees more than the cast iron around it.

I have mine running now. I take the temp with an infrared thermometer. The singe wall pipe is at 510 deg, the hot plate is at 640 and the stove is at 520. I usually run it around 450-500 so I just adjusted it down a bit.

 

[Todd]

You are doing ok. The flue temp is more important. If you get a stovetop thermometer, put it about 3" in front of the flue collar.

How is the cabin warming up? Is the loft area a lot warmer? A ceiling fan will help circulate the heat.

The cabin warms up pretty good, 65-70 burning low and slow but I'm sure I'll have to burn a little hotter when the weather changes. There will be a ceiling fan installed soon way up on the ridge pole, it is a little warmer up in the loft. Also chasing some leaks between the logs, didnt get to finish caulking outside before the weather turned cold.

 

[begreen]

Sweet looking cabin!

 

[begreen]

The singe wall pipe is at 510 deg

That's too hot. It means a lot of heat is being wasted up the flue pipe. 510º surface temp is about 1000º internally. If this is due to a tall flue then a key damper wiil help.

 

[Trinity]

That's too hot. It means a lot of heat is being wasted up the flue pipe. 510º surface temp is about 1000º internally. If this is due to a tall flue then a key damper may help.

Jotul manual says that the best stove temp is 400 to 600 for surface reading. So I do 450-500.

 

[begreen]

I'm talking about the flue temp. The stove temp is fine, but it sounds like too much heat is being sucked up the flue.

 

[Trinity]

I'm talking about the flue temp. The stove temp is fine, but it sounds like too much heat is being sucked up the flue.

Oh ok. I misunderstood.

 

[SpaceBus]

Impressive indoor temps since it looks like the cabin is uninsulated.