Jotul ash pan gasket (the one not on the door) question?

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Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
5,853
SE North Carolina
Hi Everyone,

I was cleaning the stove and trying to find an air leak. I think I found a it. The 3 “ pieceof gasket that is attached to the pan and not the door was falling off. Can anyone tell me how is supposed to be cemented on, or share a pic. I’ve taped it in place and stuck a flashlight in the pan and I’m still getting seeing light through the top.
Thanks. Evan

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Well I tried to put the little gasket piece back on the hinge side pan with an old tube of RTV. I didn’t need much 3” with an 1//8” bead. Tube was half dried and ruptured got more on my hands than the pan. Shut the door checked it the next day and still had an air leak. I had ordered some 1/8”x 3/4” flat flat gasket to replace the 4” baffle pieces that have fallen apart. A single piece laid across the the opening was not held securely and I had to fold it in half. It’s not glued in place and can fallout when you open the ashpan door.

Jotul owners check your ashpan gaskets. It’s always good to have some spare materials on hand and I think this 1/8”x3/4” flat could be useful to make temporary repairs as get by until you can make a permanent fix.
Evan

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Ugg..I just looked at my stove and this piece looks like its missing. I wonder if this is the reason for creosote on the ash pan handle and inside pan area. My manual doesn't show this gasket. This could be the reason for high draft and short burns, Waiting to hear back from dealer. How did you determine the leak. I tied smoke pellet inside, smoke test outside and dollar bill test and couldn't find it.
 
Hmmm you sure that gasket belongs there? pretty sure it does not. doesn't make sense on just that spot? but i'll check my f400 stove and get back.
 
Well it came that way from the factory on mine. It seems like a really silly place if it was intentional. Could it be a fix for an miss fitting door???
 
Ugg..I just looked at my stove and this piece looks like its missing. I wonder if this is the reason for creosote on the ash pan handle and inside pan area. My manual doesn't show this gasket. This could be the reason for high draft and short burns, Waiting to hear back from dealer. How did you determine the leak. I tied smoke pellet inside, smoke test outside and dollar bill test and couldn't find it.
Really bright flashlight in the ash pan area and closed the door.
 
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Well it came that way from the factory on mine. It seems like a really silly place if it was intentional. Could it be a fix for an mid fitting door???

I just checked. My dealer says my stove rangeley doesnt have it and he never seen it on 400 but I have seen this piece shipped in that location on several stoves. I thought it was a scrap piece.

Your ashpan is very clean and this is what my ashpan looks like and Im trying to figure out why. I burn at least 5 times a week and wood is 20 percent and under, Waiting on Jotul to get back to me.
 

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Looks like yours pulled out.
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This pic got rotated. Not sure how to correct that?
corrected - BG

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Looks like it goes into a tubelike space. So only the end sticks out.
It’s the same on both sides. Look at the left top of ashpan housing on your f400.
 
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I believe you are correct that is the ash house gasket. It’s not been trimmed on mine. Just glued down the sides on the inside of my ash house. So it’s not a missing gasket just a poor fit of my as pan door


Here is my left side untrimmed

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Rotate this close up too. Looks like it goes into a tubelike space. So only the end sticks out.
It’s the same on both sides. Look at the left top of ashpan housing on your f400.
 
Yup looks like sloppy trim job.
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i would make sure it did not pull out any before you trim it.
 
I have an F500 and here is what mine look like.
 

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ok i think i may have figured it out. They left the "tail" on the gasket to get a bit better or bulkier seal at the corner, Rather than cutting it flush (and potentially fraying) like on my stove. Other than that it has no way to "seal" around the door as there is no surface for it to rest in to make a seal. so i would let it hang and make sure it is out of the way of the door when closed.
 
ok i think i may have figured it out. They left the "tail" on the gasket to get a bit better or bulkier seal at the corner, Rather than cutting it flush (and potentially fraying) like on my stove. Other than that it has no way to "seal" around the door as there is no surface for it to rest in to make a seal. so i would let it hang and make sure it is out of the way of the door when closed.
I think that’s exactly it. In my case however there is still a gap at the top right of the door. I could glue the tail up there and see if that fixes my leak.
 
I wonder if the hinge pin is bent? my f400 ash pan door closes tightly no problem.
 
What happens if you just cut a piece and let it loop over the hinge area each time. Did jotul ever respond to you?
 
What happens if you just cut a piece and let it loop over the hinge area each time. Did jotul ever respond to you?
that’s what I did. It’s a small leak. I think I could just glue the tail up along the top and be al set. I think there was another thread with the misfitting door.
 
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I am servicing my Jotul F 400 Castine. I inherited it 6 years ago when I bought my house and it was purchased in 2000. 20 years of use he meant a lot of crusty and deteriorating gaskets.

Therefore, I am replacing nearly all the gaskets. This thread has been super helpful as I definitely have had a leak (or leaks in both corners) of the ash pan door and I am trying to resolve then. I reinstalled the ash housing gasket and it is unclear to me whether I should have left a tail on each side for this issue. I do know that my door is misaligned and need to be lifted up on the left hand side when closing, but I am unsure if I also need to go back and make the ash pan housing gasket is longer on both sides. Any input on this?
 
I am servicing my Jotul F 400 Castine. I inherited it 6 years ago when I bought my house and it was purchased in 2000. 20 years of use he meant a lot of crusty and deteriorating gaskets.

Therefore, I am replacing nearly all the gaskets. This thread has been super helpful as I definitely have had a leak (or leaks in both corners) of the ash pan door and I am trying to resolve then. I reinstalled the ash housing gasket and it is unclear to me whether I should have left a tail on each side for this issue. I do know that my door is misaligned and need to be lifted up on the left hand side when closing, but I am unsure if I also need to go back and make the ash pan housing gasket is longer on both sides. Any input on this?
Update: I can eliminate the leak on the left side by lifting up when closing, but I still have a problem area on the hinge side…. As pictured with light coming through.

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Mine was the same way. I cut a short piece of flat gasket (it’s the one I will use to replace the gasket that goes under the baffle and on top of the side burn plates that just sits there and falls out when you remove the baffle). I did not glue it and just hold it back I place each time I close the ash pan door. Probably doesn’t need flooded like I have it but it stays in place better.
Evan

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Mine was the same way. I cut a short piece of flat gasket (it’s the one I will use to replace the gasket that goes under the baffle and on top of the side burn plates that just sits there and falls out when you remove the baffle). I did not glue it and just hold it back I place each time I close the ash pan door. Probably doesn’t need flooded like I have it but it stays in place better.
Evan

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My F50 only has a gasket around the actual door that joins up flush against the ash pan frame. Thanks for the reminder to check it out. Mine is looking a little worse for wear. I wish they would include that 3/8” gasket in the door kit they sell.

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Mine was the same way. I cut a short piece of flat gasket (it’s the one I will use to replace the gasket that goes under the baffle and on top of the side burn plates that just sits there and falls out when you remove the baffle). I did not glue it and just hold it back I place each time I close the ash pan door. Probably doesn’t need flooded like I have it but it stays in place better.
Evan

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I’ll have to give that a try — looks like the flat gasket I got for my baffle is a little wider but should do the trick. Just having trouble figuring out the best position for it — but wasn’t wrapping from top of hinge to inside ash housing like you have. I was trying to beef up the gasket on the door and the leak is in the very corner.

Few questions:
-Are you running a 3/8” gasket on the door? I was thinking of going up to 1/2”. But prob won’t make a difference.
-It looks like your ash house gasket (between ash house and stove body) runs long. If that is what I am seeing behind the flat gasket? I just replaced this gasket and it is cut short and I’m wondering if I re-do and run it longer if that will help (on both sides. I did 1/4” gasket for that and seemed appropriate. Don’t really want to undo the ash housing bolts again but would like to get closer to solving this problem!

thanks for any/all input!! Re-doing almost all the gasket on the stove has been a learning experience and one I don’t want to repeat very soon!
 
I just checked. My dealer says my stove rangeley doesnt have it and he never seen it on 400 but I have seen this piece shipped in that location on several stoves. I thought it was a scrap piece.

Your ashpan is very clean and this is what my ashpan looks like and Im trying to figure out why. I burn at least 5 times a week and wood is 20 percent and under, Waiting on Jotul to get back to me.
@MR. GLO, have you replaced your ash pan gasket before?