Jotul Baffle Plate/Chimney Cleaning

[BXTF]

I am looking to clean my chimney for the first time by myself, it doesn't appear that difficult from what I have read. I went to the top and inspected the flue and found a build up of about 1/2 inch of creosote around the seems on the silver pipe the rest has about an 1/8th of an inch coating. The cap had a heavy build up (i clean and cleared the cap and screen) . We have been burning for 24/7 since the end of October. Does this sound normal?

Now here comes the questions on chimney cleaning We have a Jotul f 400 Castiane (which we love), Can anyone tell me how to remove the baffle plate so I can get to the smoke outlet. I have one 45 pipe in the chimney system, will I be able to push the brush through the 45 or will I have to clean down to the 45 then up to the 45?

I called my installer he gets 189.00+ tax to clean the chimney is this a high or a reasonable price. The question I have here is should I have the installer come and clean the chimney while I watch and learn, or should I spend the 189 bucks on my own equipment and do it myself?

Thanking everyone in advance,
Chris

 

[begreen]

That doesn't sound too bad Chris. Good to hear the stove is working well for you. Considering this is the first time, if the sweep is a pro and willing to teach you how to do this yourself, I'd consider it a good investment. You get a professionally cleaned chimney and a good education, with some insider tips. If you chose this route, ask if you can take pictures. Sounds like it could be a nice article.

Note, the top of the Castine is gasketed and removable. I believe it's held down by a couple bolts on the upper inside of the stove. The baffle/secondary assembly, it not as easy to remove. I believe it requires the top to be removed anyway. You may find it easier to just remove the connector pipe.

 

[shinyhaid]

The upper secondary burn plate can be removed by turning the tabs located on either side of the plate. It is very heavy and awkward, tho, and requires some tricky maneuvering (and numerous "magic" 4 letter words) to get the plate, baffle, firebrick, and firebrick cover back into their correct positions.

 

[gpcollen1]

I have a cleanout tee so i should not need to worry so much but I do remember reading where folks took the top off - and don't even bolt it back on - it stays just fine because of the weight. I think if you search you can find this thread that i recall..

 

[shinyhaid]

I have a tee, too. My stovepipe exits from the back of the 400 and runs about 2 feet horizontally to the chimney. I'm afraid I'd just shove all of the material in the stovepipe back into the stove (and then I'd have to take that plate or top off) if I cleaned it from the tee. Does anyone think it is necessary to even clean the stovepipe?

 

[gpcollen1]

Oh yeah, I would inspect the thing on an annual basis. I will only have to pull the 2 securing screws out and slide the stove to forward an inch and to the side 6 inches or so to see what is going on.

 

[BXTF]

Well folks I used the magic four letter words and nothing happen, I know someone out there knows the trick to getting the baffle plate out.

Begreen, thank you for the advice. The installer can't get here till next week and I would like to try this myself over the weekend.
Thanks Again,
Chris

 

[begreen]

The manual has instructions for pulling the baffle (look in the Great Britain section). They say pull the top. It can be done from the bottom, so can a tonsillectomy. It's just more painful.

 

[rijim]

I don' t know about the baffle removal, but I just installed a F400 and the manual instructs you to remove the 2 bolts that secure the top. This may have changed on the newer stoves, but the top on my stove is loose.


Jim

 

[adrpga498]

My top stays "un bolted" I removed the top & baffle plate then pulled a brush ( small nylon rope tied to brush) up through the stove pipe & 95* elbow and out through the thimble to the clean-out. ME thinx I posted this procedure awhile ago. Maybe mid January on a warm day here in Jerzy. Luckily for me only 1 bolt was ever fastend to the top. Try to reach up with your hand and wrist bent backwards like a waiter carrying a tray. You should be able to find it and I bet it is only "thumb tight" Good luck.

 

[BXTF]

adrpga498
Are both bolts located near the front of the stove? Been looking at the parts diagram and it's hard to tell.
Thank's everyone for your help.
Chris

 

[adrpga498]

adrpga498
Are both bolts located near the front of the stove? Been looking at the parts diagram and it's hard to tell.
Thank's everyone for your help.
Chris

IF the top was a football field the bolts would be the goal posts. Each end of the rectangle dead center.

 

[rijim]

Remove the stovepipe connector then reach in on each side it is about dead center between the inner and outer plates.

 

[Eric Miller]

So what's the consensus, can the baffle plate be taken out *and* re-installed without removing the top plate? I have mine installed in a fireplace so removing the top plate is not an option unless I first pull the stove out, which would be a PITA.

Related question - How long should the gaskets around the baffle plate be good for? Thanks.

 

[shinyhaid]

It's very heavy but can be taken out. The installer showed me how to do it and I had to take it out so I could move my 400 into position when the installer didn't come back to finish the job. The hard part is getting it back in! But it can be done. I'll be taking mine out in the next month or two.

 

[BXTF]

Everyone, Thank You. Been sick with the flu all weekend, so this weekend I'll tackle the cleaning and let you know how it goes.
Chris

 

[shinyhaid]

So.........how did the cleaning go?

 

[BXTF]

Well everyone here's my update. I clean the chimney Saturday morning and all went well, got about three coffee cans of creosote. From start to finish it took about fifty minutes and here's how you do it.

1, Find a friend and make sure you have the parts diagram and list on hand.

2, Look in side the stove and find the two tabs that are holding the Baffle Plate to the side burn plates.
Turn the tabs and unlock the Baffle Plate from the side plates. (you may have to bang them with a split to get them loose)

3, Here is where your friend is going to make your life nice an easy. Have your friend reach into the back of the stove and
push up on the Baffle Plate, while he is pushing up grab the two tabs on the Back Burn Plate and remove the Burn Plate.
then remove the fire brick which are behind the burn plate. (I was surprise when I saw how much creosote was behind
the burn plate) Now have your friend push the front of the Baffle Plate into the front corner of the stove, then angle the Baffle
Plate out. (Remember which way the Baffle Plate II parts list number 40 goes back)

4, After you finish cleaning the chimney put it all back together in reverse order. Remember to make sure that Baffle Plate II
doesn't fall out while your putting the Baffle Plate back in. Put the gaskets back after the Baffle Plate is back in position
this can be done by having your friend push up on the plate while you slide the gaskets in place. Then lock down the tabs and
your done.

5, Crack open a Beer start a fire and enjoy. :cheese:

Chris

 

[chad3]

My top stays "un bolted" I removed the top & baffle plate then pulled a brush ( small nylon rope tied to brush) up through the stove pipe & 95* elbow and out through the thimble to the clean-out. ME thinx I posted this procedure awhile ago. Maybe mid January on a warm day here in Jerzy. Luckily for me only 1 bolt was ever fastend to the top. Try to reach up with your hand and wrist bent backwards like a waiter carrying a tray. You should be able to find it and I bet it is only "thumb tight" Good luck.

Mine is now unbolted. Weight keeps it down. Just cleaned it out. Scraped the upper side of the wool with the hand. A bit at the backside sitting in the area below the outlet to the pipe. My pipe from there to the chimney was fairly clear. It was very easy.
After doing so. Don't put the tab back. Just keep it to weight and you will be alright.
Chad

 

[shinyhaid]

Well everyone here's my update. I clean the chimney Saturday morning and all went well, got about three coffee cans of creosote. From start to finish it took about fifty minutes and here's how you do it.

Chris

CONGRATULATIONS!

 

[Red Devil]

Well everyone here's my update. I clean the chimney Saturday morning and all went well, got about three coffee cans of creosote. From start to finish it took about fifty minutes and here's how you do it.

1, Find a friend and make sure you have the parts diagram and list on hand.

2, Look in side the stove and find the two tabs that are holding the Baffle Plate to the side burn plates.
Turn the tabs and unlock the Baffle Plate from the side plates. (you may have to bang them with a split to get them loose)

3, Here is where your friend is going to make your life nice an easy. Have your friend reach into the back of the stove and
push up on the Baffle Plate, while he is pushing up grab the two tabs on the Back Burn Plate and remove the Burn Plate.
then remove the fire brick which are behind the burn plate. (I was surprise when I saw how much creosote was behind
the burn plate) Now have your friend push the front of the Baffle Plate into the front corner of the stove, then angle the Baffle
Plate out. (Remember which way the Baffle Plate II parts list number 40 goes back)

4, After you finish cleaning the chimney put it all back together in reverse order. Remember to make sure that Baffle Plate II
doesn't fall out while your putting the Baffle Plate back in. Put the gaskets back after the Baffle Plate is back in position
this can be done by having your friend push up on the plate while you slide the gaskets in place. Then lock down the tabs and
your done.

5, Crack open a Beer start a fire and enjoy. :cheese:

Chris

I found this post most helpful. I needed help to remove to two bolts in the top, but after that your comments made the task of replacing my Castine back burn plate easy. Instead of two men, I am a 63 yr old woman, and I used a pry bar to make the job a snap. I used it push up the bottom and hold it while I lifted from the top. I was able to lift the damaged back burn plate out through the front and replace it the same way.

Thanks for the step-by-step instructions.

Red Devil

 

[cewoldt]

Thanks. These posts have been helpful.
1. When we got our Jotul F 400 stove, we removed the baffles from the inside, as well as doors, etc, so that we could lift it onto the hearth more easily. Then, with great difficulty, we replaced the baffles through the door. It can be done, but not recommended
2. Yes, as noted and per the manufacturer's manual, the top is to be unbolted and left that way--it is just bolted for transport. Wish we had noted this and done it initially while the baffles were out. So today I unbolted the top from the inside. I lifted the baffles, put a bar to hold it up, and with some difficulty, removed the two bolts. As noted earlier, they are where the goal posts would be on the football field. 10 mm for reference.
3. Take the top off, and then the baffles lift out easily. Just make a note as to how everything goes back together. (Fire bricks first, back fire wall, then the baffles and the piece that goes on top of these. You can lift the baffles up from the inside and slip the gaskets under it after you put it in. Then, the stove top just sets back on the body--no need to re-bolt it.)
4. Our chimney is a double wall stainless inside. We were advised not to use a metal brush or metal anything, as the brush could perforate the wall, and metal would scratch and roughen the surface, making it easier for the creosote to stick.
5. Clean the chimney. We took off the chimney cap and put a rope on both ends of the six inch brush, and pulled back and forth--one person on the roof, another at the stove. Our chimney is just a straight shot.
6. Our stove and chimney were very clean after a whole season of heating our house with the stove alone. Our distributor told us that she had not cleaned her chimney in over 10 years, using an F 602 (Jotul's smallest) to heat 2000 square feet! So one key to minimizing creosote buildup is to get a smaller stove and run it at hotter temperatures within the acceptable range. Also get a thermometer and burn well seasoned, quality wood hot enough (but not too hot) and the creosote will not collect. We did that, and it seems to work well. Our thermometer shows when the temperature range is neither too hot or not hot enough.