Jotul F3CB corner clearances

[TheIndian]

In anticipation of an F3CB in the near future, I am trying to determine the distance stove will need to be from wall when installed in a corner (at 45 degree angle). Entire floor will be noncombustible tile/stone so I am assuming pad size not an issue.

I plan on installing a stone veneer in corner all the way up to ceiling and after looking at Jotul manual online, I still can't determine what's right. Is a stone veneer same as a wall shield? How far must back corners of stove be from wall? Will there be a difference in clearances if veneer is mounted to sheetrock as opposed to concrete board? And, how far must veneer extend past front corners of stove? In addition, 30inches from corner of room and 30inches up from floor is the bottom corner of a window. Corner of window is just barely visible on left side of this picture.



If you have the patience, your help is greatly appreciated.

Thx!

 

[begreen]

The F3CB needs a protected hearth with at least an R value of 1.1. Will there be cement slab or wood subfloor under the tile or stone?

Stone veneer by itself is not a wall shield, but a stone veneer can be applied to a proper ventilated wall shield surface. In that case the wall shield would be made of cement board on spacers with at least a 1" opening at the bottom and top to allow air to freely circulate behind the shield. Here are the requirements. The wall shield should be 40" high if the stove has the standard legs.

 

[TheIndian]

Yes, tile and stone pad will be directly on concrete slab of house.

Not your fault Begreen and thank you for the reply but I am now more confused LOL
Are you saying I must have a ventilated wall shield? I would prefer to cement a veneer directly to wall be it sheetrock or cement board...whichever would allow me tighter clearances.

 

[begreen]

Yes, tile and stone pad will be directly on concrete slab of house.

Not your fault Begreen and thank you for the reply but I am now more confused LOL
Are you saying I must have a ventilated wall shield? I would prefer to cement a veneer directly to wall be it sheetrock or cement board...whichever would allow me tighter clearances.

You're good to go for the hearth then.

Yes, the manual provides explicit instructions for what is required. Stone on drywall is not a wallshield. However, you only need to provide a wall shield if the installation is going for reduced clearances listed in the manual. If reduced clearances are not needed and the stove is vented straight up, using double wall pipe, and the stove has the rear heatshield, then the corner clearance is 14". With a proper wall shield that corner clearance can be reduced to 6" minimum. But only with a NFPA 211 wall shield protected surface. What corner clearance are you shooting for?

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-wall-clearances-primer.147785/#post-1987380

 

[TheIndian]

Thank you Begreen!
And by 14”, you refer to the letter “L” here, correct?
Got this image from the F100 manual as the F3CB manual does not provide it.

 

[begreen]

Yes, that's correct. Odd that they left that out. Also look at the F400 which has a good illustration of both unprotected and protected wall clearances.

 

[TheIndian]

Thank you again!

 

[begreen]

No problem. Ask lots of questions now to save redo's later.

 

[TheIndian]

To me it seems very odd that the F3CB would have the biggest corner clearances to unprotected wall surfaces. All Jøtul stoves smaller or bigger allow for less clearance. The F100, F45, F400, F500 and F600 all allow stove to be closer to wall.

Am I reading their manuals correctly? Would this have something to do with the geometry or construction of the F3CB?

 

[begreen]

The F3CB is a mighty little heater. The geometry and construction is somewhat unique. Each stove gets tested for safe close clearances. FWIW I had the Castine and exceeded recommended minimum clearances. The walls still got quite warm, more than I was comfortable when the stove was being pushed for heat.

 

[firefighterjake]

I did the same thing as BeGreen with my Oslo . . . exceeded the minimum limits . . . and then since the walls were still pretty darned warm I ended up replacing the drywall with cement board and tile (not that it made a difference in terms of combustible material, but my wife felt more comfortable with the tile vs. painted paper surface.

 

[begreen]

Looking through EPA certifications yesterday I saw that the EPA tested output for the F3CB is notably higher than for its brethren. It's an overachieving little stove. Its burn time may be shorter, but the little stove can really heat.

 

[TheIndian]

Looking through EPA certifications yesterday I saw that the EPA tested output for the F3CB is notably higher than for its brethren. It's an overachieving little stove. Its burn time may be shorter, but the little stove can really heat.

Thanks for checking Begreen!

I was looking over the F3CB quote I received from the dealer and I haven't been able to confirm yet if the pipe he quoted me was for single wall or double wall (will call him again tomorrow)...which will make a difference on the clearances by about 6 inches I believe.

Is there a big difference in price between single wall and double wall pipe?

I might have to start looking at the F100 a little closer considering the layout of the room with stove install. Single wall pipe puts the rear corners of the F3CB 20inches from the wall...that a lot more than I expected. An F100 with double wall pipe is 10inches I think.

Thanks again...your help is greatly appreciated!

 

[begreen]

Go for the double wall stove pipe. It not only improves draft and protection, but it has a stainless steel liner for longer life. If the goal is for the stove to be a regular heating supplement then I'd stick with the F3CB. If it's just for a nice fire some nights and weekends then the F100 will be fine.

How large an area will the stove be heating?

 

[TheIndian]

Go for the double wall stove pipe. It not only improves draft and protection, but it has a stainless steel liner for longer life. If the goal is for the stove to be a regular heating supplement then I'd stick with the F3CB. If it's just for a nice fire some nights and weekends then the F100 will be fine.

How large an area will the stove be heating?

Double wall sounds better then. And even though it appears to be about twice the price as single wall (?), I ultimately don't need that much of it. Will do as much work as possible to go with the F3CB but will keep the F100 on deck if need be. I really don't plan on using it every night of the week, like you said...some nights and weekends for sure...it will be in a room approximately 500sqft...