Jotul F45 - Price Check and Expectations vs PE Summit

[Mike.O]

Looking into a Jotul F45 Greenville V2 new. Two quotes around me were $2,800 NOT IN STOCK and $2,900 IN STOCK. I don't desperately need the stove as it will be a second stove for the LL of a raised ranch. My primary heater is upstairs, which is a PE Summit that runs 24/7 from November to April. The stairway to upstairs is wide open so it should also throw some heat upstairs. Maybe this stove becomes our
We recently had a kid and want to setup the downstairs for his play area and start hanging out more down there.

This stove is going to be replace a very poor condition Federal Airtight FA224. This is going to be a fireplace install, so I plan to orient the flue to rear exit to a "T" and go up +/- 25' of 6" insulated liner installed a few years back. I can technically fit the stove with the flue oriented vertically, but the stove would be stuffed in to the fireplace much deeper and cleaning would be much more difficult.

1. How is the price? It seems higher than some posts on here but I understand everything is through the roof now.
2. How will this stove operate compare to my PE Summit? I'm thinking it should be very similar. I selected this stove because of the N/S loading, the non-cat technology and the size. We wont burn this stove 24/7. Only on weekends and evenings if we plan to be down there. This stove should also fit my wood I have cut for the PE.
3. Are there noticeable differences in rear vs top flue exit? I'm leaning rear because it will push the stove much further into the room. Also, my thought is the rear flue with 25' of chimney could help slow down any possible overdraft?

Some photos of the space attached.

 

[pinefall]

We’ve been planning to replace a 1980s Federal Airtight FA264 with a Jotul F45 V2. The quote we got in October was for $4979 with up to six months wait time (after putting down a deposit) plus $2700 for installation.

I would jump at $2900. For now we’re keeping the FA going and will try again later. The tax credit should be around for awhile.

 

[RI_FL_Line]

Looking into a Jotul F45 Greenville V2 new. Two quotes around me were $2,800 NOT IN STOCK and $2,900 IN STOCK. I don't desperately need the stove as it will be a second stove for the LL of a raised ranch. My primary heater is upstairs, which is a PE Summit that runs 24/7 from November to April. The stairway to upstairs is wide open so it should also throw some heat upstairs. Maybe this stove becomes our
We recently had a kid and want to setup the downstairs for his play area and start hanging out more down there.

This stove is going to be replace a very poor condition Federal Airtight FA224. This is going to be a fireplace install, so I plan to orient the flue to rear exit to a "T" and go up +/- 25' of 6" insulated liner installed a few years back. I can technically fit the stove with the flue oriented vertically, but the stove would be stuffed in to the fireplace much deeper and cleaning would be much more difficult.

1. How is the price? It seems higher than some posts on here but I understand everything is through the roof now.
2. How will this stove operate compare to my PE Summit? I'm thinking it should be very similar. I selected this stove because of the N/S loading, the non-cat technology and the size. We wont burn this stove 24/7. Only on weekends and evenings if we plan to be down there. This stove should also fit my wood I have cut for the PE.
3. Are there noticeable differences in rear vs top flue exit? I'm leaning rear because it will push the stove much further into the room. Also, my thought is the rear flue with 25' of chimney could help slow down any possible overdraft?

Some photos of the space attached.View attachment 305954View attachment 305953

 

[RI_FL_Line]

Here’s what I paid last month at the Preston Trading Post in CT.

 

[Mike.O]

Here’s what I paid last month at the Preston Trading Post in CT.

View attachment 305956

Yep! That was the place that Quoted me $2,800, but it wasn't in stock and she couldn't provide a delivery time.
The $2,900 was Superior in Southington.

How do you like the stove?

 

[Mike.O]

We’ve been planning to replace a 1980s Federal Airtight FA264 with a Jotul F45 V2. The quote we got in October was for $4979 with up to six months wait time (after putting down a deposit) plus $2700 for installation.

I would jump at $2900. For now we’re keeping the FA going and will try again later. The tax credit should be around for awhile.

Wow, that's quite a price difference. I have to look into the tax credit.

I got our Federal Airtight for free, but never liked it. We ended up getting the PE the year after the FA and never really used the FA. The cat is old and I only run it with the bypass open now.

 

[RI_FL_Line]

Yep! That was the place that Quoted me $2,800, but it wasn't in stock and she couldn't provide a delivery time.
The $2,900 was Superior in Southington.

How do you like the stove?

Love the stove but I wish the installer used the rear vent rather than the top for easier cleaning with a “T” and had it sit out a little further on the hearth. Of course I learned all this after the install. I will have this corrected after the burning season.

 

[Mike.O]

Love the stove but I wish the installer used the rear vent rather than the top for easier cleaning with a “T” and had it sit out a little further on the hearth. Of course I learned all this after the install. I will have this corrected after the burning season.

I was on the fence about rear vs top and had myself convinced on rear for the exact reasons you mentioned. Your experience reinforces my thoughts. Thanks!

 

[RI_FL_Line]

I was on the fence about rear vs top and had myself convinced on rear for the exact reasons you mentioned. Your experience reinforces my thoughts. Thanks!

I have a Regency dealer near me that doesn’t even sell rear vented stoves. From what I’ve read they are not as common as top vent. The Jotul’s, at least my model, is both.

 

[RI_FL_Line]

We’ve been planning to replace a 1980s Federal Airtight FA264 with a Jotul F45 V2. The quote we got in October was for $4979 with up to six months wait time (after putting down a deposit) plus $2700 for installation.

I would jump at $2900. For now we’re keeping the FA going and will try again later. The tax credit should be around for awhile.

I may be mistaken but I didn't think the Jotul F45 V2 qualified for the tax credit.

 

[RI_FL_Line]

We’ve been planning to replace a 1980s Federal Airtight FA264 with a Jotul F45 V2. The quote we got in October was for $4979 with up to six months wait time (after putting down a deposit) plus $2700 for installation.

I would jump at $2900. For now we’re keeping the FA going and will try again later. The tax credit should be around for awhile.

Also does your install include a new SS liner. If not, that seems like a lot of money. My guy, two guys actually, charged $750 for cleaning and the install.

 

[Mike.O]

I may be mistaken but I didn't think the Jotul F45 V2 qualified for the tax credit.

I believe you are right. I just researched this and came up with 75% efficiency for the cutoff. The F45 is 71%I believe. I think only the F500 meets the requirements for the tax credit.

 

[pinefall]

Also does your install include a new SS liner. If not, that seems like a lot of money. My guy, two guys actually, charged $750 for cleaning and the install.

Yes, the install includes a SS liner which is about half the install cost, plus replacing interior pipe, adapter, cap, etc. and delivery. The labor itself is only $500.

 

[pinefall]

I believe you are right. I just researched this and came up with 75% efficiency for the cutoff. The F45 is 71%I believe. I think only the F500 meets the requirements for the tax credit.

Oops. You are right. My quote is for the F500 V3 Oslo not the F45 the original poster referenced.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[zephyr0512]

In seeing this post, albeit an older one, and being new to wood stoves, if I had to choose between the Jotul and the PE, especially the Summit, I’d go PE. I’m in the stove hunting mode now, and I just put my hands and eyes on both brands, and I think the build quality is better on the PE. The only thing I did not like about the PE was the spring loaded ash dump handle, as one has to hold the handle the entire time while scraping down the ashes into a small 3” dia. hole, which would get old fast. The thing(s) I did not like about Jotul was how the glass was inserted and secued into the door, leaving the glass edges exp0osed and using little tabs and small screws to secure them in place. Also, the thin metal handles have ruff edges and felt flimsy, at least to me.

Does your Summit compare in quality to the Jotul’s you’re considering? Just wondering.

 

[Mike.O]

In seeing this post, albeit an older one, and being new to wood stoves, if I had to choose between the Jotul and the PE, especially the Summit, I’d go PE. I’m in the stove hunting mode now, and I just put my hands and eyes on both brands, and I think the build quality is better on the PE. The only thing I did not like about the PE was the spring loaded ash dump handle, as one has to hold the handle the entire time while scraping down the ashes into a small 3” dia. hole, which would get old fast. The thing(s) I did not like about Jotul was how the glass was inserted and secued into the door, leaving the glass edges exp0osed and using little tabs and small screws to secure them in place. Also, the thin metal handles have ruff edges and felt flimsy, at least to me.

Does your Summit compare in quality to the Jotul’s you’re considering? Just wondering.

I purchased and installed the Jotul a little over a week ago. So far I like it. It is installed on 25' of insulated liner and I'm having a very hard time controlling the temps. I'm shutting it down the second the logs start to flame and it still runs away. Not even on a full load. I am burning VERY seasoned wood, 4 years at around 16 percent, so that could be contributing. I have the secondary plugged up with aluminum foil and that seems to be keeping everything in check. My setup isn't god for a pipe damper, so I'll have to live with blocking off air to the stove. I have some magnets coming this week to try to get rid of the foil.

As for a comparison of the two stoves, my PE is an absolute work horse. It starts in November and doesn't shut off until April. 2 FULL loads a day and the house is warm. It is an easy breather, but once I got it all figured out it peaks at 720-750. I did just notice my first small cracked weld on the inside of the door by the baffle rail. I'm going to monitor it, but burning as is for now. The floating baffle is great and can take a beating. I don't have an ash door so I can't comment. TBH I don't think its necessary. Stove is very well built and will replace with the exact same stove when it is time to retire it.

As for the F45, I also feel it was a well built stove. Steel stove, with cast panels. I didn't take any objections to the glass, but didn't study it too deeply. I think the door latch is much nicer than the PE. The baffle on the F45 is good, although I wish some of the holes pointed down. All the holes point horizontally towards the face, and the burn just gets sucked straight out chimney. The PE has a series of holes that point down and do a great job of actually burning wood. Overall I think it is a very high quality stove and should work great. The main reason I chose this stove was for the rear exit, N/S loading and non-cat. I couldn't fit a PE downstairs or I would have installed one.

I think you will be ok with either stove and I am very happy with my F45 purchase. My PE has proven its worth in gold to me, so I am biased, for now, towards that stove.

 

[zephyr0512]

I purchased and installed the Jotul a little over a week ago. So far I like it. It is installed on 25' of insulated liner and I'm having a very hard time controlling the temps. I'm shutting it down the second the logs start to flame and it still runs away. Not even on a full load. I am burning VERY seasoned wood, 4 years at around 16 percent, so that could be contributing. I have the secondary plugged up with aluminum foil and that seems to be keeping everything in check. My setup isn't god for a pipe damper, so I'll have to live with blocking off air to the stove. I have some magnets coming this week to try to get rid of the foil.

As for a comparison of the two stoves, my PE is an absolute work horse. It starts in November and doesn't shut off until April. 2 FULL loads a day and the house is warm. It is an easy breather, but once I got it all figured out it peaks at 720-750. I did just notice my first small cracked weld on the inside of the door by the baffle rail. I'm going to monitor it, but burning as is for now. The floating baffle is great and can take a beating. I don't have an ash door so I can't comment. TBH I don't think its necessary. Stove is very well built and will replace with the exact same stove when it is time to retire it.

As for the F45, I also feel it was a well built stove. Steel stove, with cast panels. I didn't take any objections to the glass, but didn't study it too deeply. I think the door latch is much nicer than the PE. The baffle on the F45 is good, although I wish some of the holes pointed down. All the holes point horizontally towards the face, and the burn just gets sucked straight out chimney. The PE has a series of holes that point down and do a great job of actually burning wood. Overall I think it is a very high quality stove and should work great. The main reason I chose this stove was for the rear exit, N/S loading and non-cat. I couldn't fit a PE downstairs or I would have installed one.

I think you will be ok with either stove and I am very happy with my F45 purchase. My PE has proven its worth in gold to me, so I am biased, for now, towards that stove.

View attachment 307287

Thanks for the info, comments! Your stove looks very nice, and I lkie the rock look!

This being our first stove purchase, we’re a bit overly cautious, and I guess I’m picky. My husband realy likes the Kuma’s build quality and craftsmanship, the sturdiness and functionality. Then again, he’s still in love with the M1A1 Abrams tank, a beast of a battle machine. He has his eyes on the Kuma Aberdeen LE. Me, I get the need for good quality sturdy craftsmanship stove, and I think the Kuma comes through in this arena, but I like some delicate and fine tune features, to make life more bearable. So, my favorite, without going teat for tat, would be the PE Alderlea, maybe the T5, in red!

Now it’s time to wake up, and actually decide what SIZE will be best for our use. I have read and read many of these posts about technical features and performances till my head hurts; I’m overwhelmed! CAT Vs NonCAT. Low burn, high burn, clear glass, emissions, EPA certified, etc. And, I realize all of this is vital to good performance, however, without even owning our first stove, it’s hard to get too wrapped up in all the technical aspects if the appeal and first sight draw is out the window. It has to look good, feel good and draw my “first sight” attention before I can start considering the spec’s, thought I know I have to.

This morning my husband dropped another stove on the list, as a distraction, I know. The BK Boxer. So, more research forth coming. Ugh.

 

[Todd]

I purchased and installed the Jotul a little over a week ago. So far I like it. It is installed on 25' of insulated liner and I'm having a very hard time controlling the temps. I'm shutting it down the second the logs start to flame and it still runs away. Not even on a full load. I am burning VERY seasoned wood, 4 years at around 16 percent, so that could be contributing. I have the secondary plugged up with aluminum foil and that seems to be keeping everything in check. My setup isn't god for a pipe damper, so I'll have to live with blocking off air to the stove. I have some magnets coming this week to try to get rid of the foil.

As for a comparison of the two stoves, my PE is an absolute work horse. It starts in November and doesn't shut off until April. 2 FULL loads a day and the house is warm. It is an easy breather, but once I got it all figured out it peaks at 720-750. I did just notice my first small cracked weld on the inside of the door by the baffle rail. I'm going to monitor it, but burning as is for now. The floating baffle is great and can take a beating. I don't have an ash door so I can't comment. TBH I don't think its necessary. Stove is very well built and will replace with the exact same stove when it is time to retire it.

As for the F45, I also feel it was a well built stove. Steel stove, with cast panels. I didn't take any objections to the glass, but didn't study it too deeply. I think the door latch is much nicer than the PE. The baffle on the F45 is good, although I wish some of the holes pointed down. All the holes point horizontally towards the face, and the burn just gets sucked straight out chimney. The PE has a series of holes that point down and do a great job of actually burning wood. Overall I think it is a very high quality stove and should work great. The main reason I chose this stove was for the rear exit, N/S loading and non-cat. I couldn't fit a PE downstairs or I would have installed one.

I think you will be ok with either stove and I am very happy with my F45 purchase. My PE has proven its worth in gold to me, so I am biased, for now, towards that stove.

View attachment 307287

Instead of blocking your secondary air try blocking the unrestricted primary air holes that empty into the lower front of the firebox. I inserted two screws in those holes and it gave me much more control on my straight up 22’ flue.

 

[Mike.O]

Instead of blocking your secondary air try blocking the unrestricted primary air holes that empty into the lower front of the firebox. I inserted two screws in those holes and it gave me much more control on my straight up 22’ flue.

I looked for those and couldn't find them. I think I got the idea on another post by you where you mentioned these holes. Are they visible with the heat shield on? Or are you dropping the screws in from the inside of the fire box?

I'll have to check closer when I get home.

 

[Todd]

I looked for those and couldn't find them. I think I got the idea on another post by you where you mentioned these holes. Are they visible with the heat shield on? Or are you dropping the screws in from the inside of the fire box?

I'll have to check closer when I get home.

If you look under the stove just behind the air slide there are two maybe 1/4” diameter holes right on the edge of the bottom heat shield. They run straight up into the firebox. You can either plug it underneath or just do like I did and use a couple screws inside the firebox.

 

[Ant428]

Here’s what I paid last month at the Preston Trading Post in CT.

View attachment 305956

How has the stove been? I live in NY and was going to go to that place and look. I'm near Danbury. Is the stove easy to run?

 

[firenightdance]

FYI we paid $3149 for our F45, plus tax. Anywhere selling for less was too far away for our installer to pick up. Still had to pay our installer to drive an hour each way. That Preston Trading Post price is amazing and makes me feel like I got jacked paying so much more, but it's also a 5+ hour round trip so we would have made up the difference in price paying our installers time, gas and tolls to go get it. C'est la vie.

That said, maybe the Preston price is extraordinarily and bizarrely low. That's under the $2999 which is the rock bottom I found calling all over the east coast. And the first place I called in Columbia County, NY quoted almost $4500 uninstalled, just pick-up. I called back after buying just to see if I dreamt the whole thing, and they gave me a price that was $1K less. Obviously they gave me the wrong price the first time, but their second quote was still $350 higher (pre-tax) from where I got it...

Stove is easy to run and nice. We love it, but it's also our first stove, so we're easily impressed. I haven't had any real "runaway" experiences with it yet, though we haven't really stuffed it either. With 1/2 a load of kiln-dried wood, it gets plenty hot even with the air shut down (490-575+) so still a bit shy about loading it up. It's steel clad in cast iron and makes a lot of clicking and clanging - not unpleasant, but going from memory, a bit more percussion than our friends' Jøtul 400 Castine.

The only negative would be from our installers, who groaned about what a pain it will be to clean. I think that is a valid complaint. Ours is tucked in a fireplace with a cut-out Heatilator. It's tight to take everything apart. The place they picked up from said some people get a vacuum adapter to clean it out without removal, if I understood correctly...I'll get more detail when it's time for a sweep.

 

[begreen]

Operationally, the F45 is similar to the Alderlea T5/T6. It's a good stove. Cleaning is another story. The PE is much easier.

 

[Todd]

It may be easier to clean if you leave the liner connected and remove the exhaust collar of the stove. That should give you good access to vacuum the top of the baffle. You may also be able to sweep the liner from the bottom up with a garbage bag attached to it.