jotul f500 oslo need some help repairing it

[Bulldogmoose]

Hey Guys, just recently found a Jotul F500 used. for $300 i said what the hell. Figuring it would need some updated parts, I didn't think it would be too much of a project to clean the beast up and get the thing hooked up. As I have been cleaning it, I've noticed there is some cement type caulking surrounding many parts of the stove as I remove parts. My first question is, when I put the parts back together, what product is that and do I use it on every part I am putting back on? My next question concerns the inside of the fire box. Not noticing it until I brought it home and cleaned it up, there is a crack in the fire box. near the ash grid. I'm not too sure on how to go about fixing it, if I can at all. Unfortunately, it seems as though the stove was left outside or got wet because there was some rust so when I tried removing the top, the bolts snapped. Thus needing a new top. Any recommendations on where I can get replacement parts? Overall the stove looks in good shape, just needs some TLC. new paint, new refractory bricks, new gaskets, new vermiculite baffle and insulation blanket. I was able to find the top at stoveking.com but I am unsure of which one it would be because there are a few different options.

Anything will help for I am pretty new at this and wanted to accept the challenge but don't want to give up just yet.

Michael

the picture is of the crack.

 

[begreen]

Is the crack in the base? If so, it probably is a result of the previous owner starting the fire using the ash pan door. The base will need to be replaced.
Jotul uses a special stove cement that bakes harder than the usual furnace cement. I read here that Hearthstone sells a decent stove cement. Lehmans sells it. You might try that.

(broken link removed to https://www.lehmans.com/p-3143-hearthstone-stove-cement.aspx?show=all)

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Is the crack in the base? If so, it probably is a result of the previous owner starting the fire using the ash pan door. The base will need to be replaced.
Jotul uses a special stove cement that bakes harder than the usual furnace cement. I read here that Hearthstone sells a decent stove cement. Lehmans sells it. You might try that.

(broken link removed to https://www.lehmans.com/p-3143-hearthstone-stove-cement.aspx?show=all)

Hey Begreen,

Thanks for the reply... It's been a while. The crack is in the base, therefor I believe I am going to have to replace it. I'm new at this as I mentioned and I don't want to screw anything else up especially since the inside hasn't been used for a while and some of the bolts snapped after I tried loosening the top plate and the top cover. I am trying to get the snapped screws out but I am not doing a very good job. the Side burn plate has a crack in it as well so I am going to have to replace that too. I guess I can't really complain considering i got the stove for 300 and for an oslo f500, i think that is pretty damn good. I found some rutland wood stove cement, figured I would try that. Do I use that throughout the stove when putting each part back together at the seems. I also am goign to have to replace the gaskets. Probably looking at around 750-1000 for repairs if I do it myself. What do you think?

 

[begreen]

To remove snapped off bolts, centerpunch them to make a starting point for drilling. Then drill out a size below the tap size. stovelark may be able to tell you the actual bolt specs (and parts pricing). Then clear out the metal debris and tap using a flat bottom tap. The actual process doesn't take that long once you get the hang of it. All major body seams get cemented, except for the top lid which is gasketed. Internal parts like the burn plates, secondary rack do not get cemented.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

I tried doing the drill technique after I was successful with removing two out of the three bolts from the top plate. The third one I had to drill and then I used an extractor and that snapped. I was so close from saving the top plate, any suggestions. For the top plate cover that has two screws, both snapped as well. I will have to grind them down to get them flush with the iron then try your method. I don't know how successful I am going to be. I just really didnt' want to have to buy those parts especially when they are in good shape. The base, I don't mind fixing since there is a crack.

 

[begreen]

Drilling out the extractor is tough the steel is much harder. But the gasketed top plate doesn't need to be bolted down. It's weight will keep it sealed at the gasket. I've read that in Europe the bolts are primarily for shipping and left out once the stove is installed to facilitate cleaning. For that reason I would not replace the top plate.

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[stovelark]

Hey bull- Yes BG is correct (as always, ha) you don't have to bolt the top plate down, but the center oval you will need to drill out or replace. Replacement is expensive too, about 150 dollars for that little oval..... The base plate is around 350 dollars and the internal side plates (the pair) is about 125.00 Take care when taking her apart, remove all the old furnace cement in the grooves that the individual plates fit into. The baseplate is the bear, about all has to be removed from the stove and start building up. Patience and a little time is necessary. I see you are in Warwick, the STOVE PIPE store is located in your area for ordering Jotul parts. All Jotul bolts are 10 or 12 MM Hex screws, metric threading, I'd suggest using stainless hardware if you can. Good luck with her, a few hundred dollars and sweat will get you a 2500 new stove retail if the stove is painted black. If enameled, then more expensive. Once she is repaired, take her up in temp gently, running the stove with the ash door open is probably what cracked the base in the first place. Good luck.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Hey stove lark .. That's a good thing to know in regards to the top plate... I still would want to have the screw there so it atleast stays in place..I'm bummed about that little oval piece. Is there anywhere online I can get parts rather then dealing with stove store. I figured that I would need to take everything apart to get to that base plate... I just really was hoping there weren't gonna be any cracks.. Even still I feel good about the stove n spending a few hundred will be a good investment considering how expensive the stove is.. Do u think that oval plate comes with the hardware or just the plate

 

[stovelark]

Hey bull- Jotul parts are only supposed to be available through the dealer network. The oval plate comes by itself, the little locking pegs and hardware are individual parts and part numbers. An exploded view of the F500 should be in the manual, if not certainly available under Jotul's website. With new parts and pieces and sweat equity, I still think you can come out at a decent price and be warm this winter.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

That's what I'm thinking.. For the oval plate I was able to keep the pegs which is good..

 

[webby3650]

When I first started installing Jotuls the the manual for the Oslo said to remove the bolts from the top oval. Stated that they were only for shipping, they have since removed that part from the manual. I ran both of my Oslos for years with no bolts on the oval, only the gasket with no issues ever. It was a great advantage for cleaning. If it were me, I'd skip the top bolts and the oval bolts. For the record, I've drilled and tapped many many bolts in cast stoves with no issues. With the proper techniques it isn't too bad.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

what do you mean by the basket? my buddy owns a boat repair shop and he said he is going to take a look at the parts and see if he can weld them and then redrill the holes. i would love to keep the top piece and the oval piece because that would save me like 400.

 

[begreen]

what do you mean by the basket?

Maybe meant gasket? For welding I would take it to someone with a lot of experience welding hot cast iron. An automotive machine shop maybe?

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Yeah that's what I figured after rereading it

 

[webby3650]

Ya, gasket.
Many older Jotuls had tops that just sat on the stove, all of them but the combi-fires actually. It's a $300 stove, if you aren't careful you'll end up with way too much money in it.
For what it's worth, I sold my 4 year old blue/Black enamel babied Oslo for $1,400.

 

[stovelark]

Agreed on the top bolts- I'd use them if available but if they snapped off I wouldn't waste the time with them. The center oval is different, I'd use them even though it is gasketed as well. I also agree with the cost assessment, after 1000 it will be for love only, a used matte black Oslo sells for about 1000-1200 retail. MSRP 2539.00.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

As of right now stove is completely apart.. I was able to get bottom piece off.. No matter what.. If I don't replace the top and oval.. I still need the bottom piece... New gaskets and a side burner plate vermiculite baffle and insulation blanket plus hardware