Jotul F500 V3 Oslo conundrum

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

JamesGuido

Feeling the Heat
Jan 5, 2021
297
Raymond, Wisconsin
in december, we replaced our near 30 yr old vermont castings encore defiant with a jotul f500 v3 oslo stove.
we really like the jotul so far, and i don't see a reason why that'd change anytime soon.

however, i am stumped on one function of this new stove...
the primary air control lever on this stove can be completely in the closed position (to the far left side) yet the fire still burns perfectly.
during start-up, i can leave it at the closed position and it'll fire up fine.

the video shows how nice the fire burns with it "shut down".



the temp on stove top is approx 400ºF, on the flue 20" above at the same time is about 375ºF
doesn't seem like this is normal... like this shouldn't happen.
seems like there may be an air leak somewhere...
the ash door is completely closed, haven't emptied the ashes in three weeks (burn everyday, all weekend long).
the side and front doors are closed completely.

in 2 hours, i can burn approximately 35 to 40 pounds of dry oak in this closed position...
am i missing something... ??
 
Last edited:
New 2020 complaint stoves have larger static air openings to make sure all fuel gases are burnt as cleanly as possible. If you have a higher then recommended draft (.05inwc) then you'll see the side effects greater, best thing to do first is to test your draft with a manometer.
 
Fwiw, your video looks like my 2013 Jotul rockland on low.
 
My insert will not starve the fire of air. I run it ‘closed’ all the time.
Strange? Yes. I know that for a chimney fire you close off the air supply. In my case I’ll have to create some steam should that happen.
 
in december, we replaced our near 30 yr old vermont castings encore defiant with a jotul f500 v3 oslo stove.
we really like the jotul so far, and i don't see a reason why that'd change anytime soon.

however, i am stumped on one function of this new stove...
the primary air control lever on this stove can be completely in the closed position (to the far left side) yet the fire still burns perfectly.
during start-up, i can leave it at the closed position and it'll fire up fine.

the video shows how nice the fire burns with it "shut down".



the temp on stove top is approx 400ºF, on the flue 20" above at the same time is about 375ºF
doesn't seem like this is normal... like this shouldn't happen.
seems like there may be an air leak somewhere...
the ash door is completely closed, haven't emptied the ashes in three weeks (burn everyday, all weekend long).
the side and front doors are closed completely.

in 2 hours, i can burn approximately 35 to 40 pounds of dry oak in this closed position...
am i missing something... ??



I had a similar experience, once even a small load catches, there's no slowing it down. Too much air allowed in the stove: ash house unregulated ports (2), dog house, airwash, secondary.
 

I had a similar experience, once even a small load catches, there's no slowing it down. Too much air allowed in the stove: ash house unregulated ports (2), dog house, airwash, secondary.
What did you guys end up doing? I am running a newly installed Jotul F500 Oslo V3 and have the same issues. I am pushing 28 ft flues and am thinking a butterfly flue damper is my best bet. (checked for leaks, can't find any)
 
in december, we replaced our near 30 yr old vermont castings encore defiant with a jotul f500 v3 oslo stove.
we really like the jotul so far, and i don't see a reason why that'd change anytime soon.

however, i am stumped on one function of this new stove...
the primary air control lever on this stove can be completely in the closed position (to the far left side) yet the fire still burns perfectly.
during start-up, i can leave it at the closed position and it'll fire up fine.

the video shows how nice the fire burns with it "shut down".



the temp on stove top is approx 400ºF, on the flue 20" above at the same time is about 375ºF
doesn't seem like this is normal... like this shouldn't happen.
seems like there may be an air leak somewhere...
the ash door is completely closed, haven't emptied the ashes in three weeks (burn everyday, all weekend long).
the side and front doors are closed completely.

in 2 hours, i can burn approximately 35 to 40 pounds of dry oak in this closed position...
am i missing something... ??

Same here. What did you guys end up doing? I am running a newly installed Jotul F500 Oslo V3 and have the same issues. I am pushing 28 ft flues and am thinking a butterfly flue damper is my best bet. (checked for leaks, can't find any)
 
actually, we did nothing and it seems to have settled in quite nicely... the only thing i started doing since i posted this back in feb2021, i never emptied the ash pan. now, when i want to "kill" the fire, i move the air control lever to the left and it's noticeably dying down.
however, i haven't found the need to do so, but in case i need to leave suddenly and i have a nice fire / heat going, knowing it works is good.

musta been just like a breaking in period and or the full insulated ashpan.
i have since read about other Jøtul F500 v3 stoves with possible air intake with the ash pan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Todd and CSJ_PA
On another thread a guy put a magnet over each of the 2 ash pan unregulated ports. He reports much better performance in his f500 now. Hope this helps you guys.

here is that thread
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: kennyp2339 and Todd
meeting EPA regs by over firing your stove. I used to have to stick a rag in the back of my Jotul to slow it down.
 
Sad to see the regs are causing these types of issues. Don’t get me wrong I’m all for clean burning but I wish in all cases we could hit that sweet spot of clean burn with optimum efficiency/fire control. Wishful thinking I guess.
 
Sad to see the regs are causing these types of issues. Don’t get me wrong I’m all for clean burning but I wish in all cases we could hit that sweet spot of clean burn with optimum efficiency/fire control. Wishful thinking I guess.
a blaze king can do just that
 
  • Like
Reactions: MEngineer24
Sad to see the regs are causing these types of issues. Don’t get me wrong I’m all for clean burning but I wish in all cases we could hit that sweet spot of clean burn with optimum efficiency/fire control. Wishful thinking I guess.
Many companies have met those regs without these issues. It isn't the regulations that caused them it's the design of the stove
 
thats the biggest reason I got rid of mu F500. at times uncontrollable.
 
thats the biggest reason I got rid of mu F500. at times uncontrollable.
The old one (if installed with the proper draft) was very controllable. If you had excessive draft yes it will be hard to control but that is a problem with the install not the stove.
 
Lots of people here have been running the F500 for over a decade without control issues. firefighterjake could be the longest here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesGuido
The old one (if installed with the proper draft) was very controllable. If you had excessive draft yes it will be hard to control but that is a problem with the install not the stove.
if i remember correctly the dealer said not to use a damper
 
The old one (if installed with the proper draft) was very controllable. If you had excessive draft yes it will be hard to control but that is a problem with the install not the stove.
Or a problem with the operator if the stove is not turned down in a timely fashion. It's a manual operation, not thermostat limited.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
if i remember correctly the dealer said not to use a damper
Did they test your draft? If it's to high it needs to be brought into spec. The easiest and most effective way to do that is with a damper. Yes jotul says don't use a damper. But they also tell you to install with the proper draft. Sometimes a damper is needed.
 
if i remember correctly the dealer said not to use a damper
If so, the dealer was in error. This is from the F500 manual. (sorry for the all caps, some odd copy/paste thing happening)

OTHER TIMES, CHIMNEY HEIGHT CAN CREATE EXCESSIVE DRAFT WHICH CAN CAUSE HIGH STOVE TEMPERATURES AND SHORT BURN TIMES. EXCESSIVE DRAFTS CAN BE CORRECTED BY INSTALLING A BUTTERFLY DAMPER. IF YOU SUSPECT YOU HAVE A DRAFT PROBLEM, CONSULT YOUR DEALER.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
If so, the dealer was in error. This is from the F500 manual.

OTHER TIMES, CHIMNEY HEIGHT CAN CREATE EXCESSIVE DRAFT WHICH CAN CAUSE HIGH STOVE TEMPERATURES AND SHORT BURN TIMES. EXCESSIVE DRAFTS CAN BE CORRECTED BY INSTALLING A BUTTERFLY DAMPER. IF YOU SUSPECT YOU HAVE A DRAFT PROBLEM, CONSULT YOUR DEALER.
Wow I am surprised they say that. In most cases they will not give a damper the ok. (Which in my opinion is stupid) but I understand why.
 
Like Blaze King, they recognize the need to keep the draft within spec. Regency has the same thing in the F2450 manual.

Too tall a chimney may prompt excessive draft which can result in very short burn times and excessive heat output. The use of an inexpensive flue pipe damper may be helpful in reducing excessive draft.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler