Jotul F500 V3 Oslo install
- Thread starter touchthewindrider
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Also, any suggestions on how to move it from the driveway, where it'll be dropped, to our raised hearth up four front steps and into the house?
The new stove may be much more picky with wood: it needs to be dry. Do you have a moisture meter?
How tall is your flue?
There are "stair dollies" that can move things up stairs.
Wheels help.
I used two cheap furniture dollies on my level trip from the driveway thru the garage into the basement.
How tall is your flue?
There are "stair dollies" that can move things up stairs.
Wheels help.
I used two cheap furniture dollies on my level trip from the driveway thru the garage into the basement.
Thanks for reply. Yes, use a mositure meter all the time. Flue/chimney is 20' tall. Thinking about dollies...thinking
maybe hire a couple moving guys? Still thinking...someone mentioned chimney sweeps should be able to move and install?
thinking...
maybe hire a couple moving guys? Still thinking...someone mentioned chimney sweeps should be able to move and install?
thinking...
It is likely that the system should be fairly plug and play with a 20 ft flue.
I would suggest to have it inspected for integrity.
Is it lined and insulated? (For safety and code compliance, unless you have 2" of clearance from the brick to combustibles for an inside chimney, or 1" for an outside chimney.)
Are you going to meet clearance with the stove?
Do you have enough floor protection in front of the stove?
I would suggest to have it inspected for integrity.
Is it lined and insulated? (For safety and code compliance, unless you have 2" of clearance from the brick to combustibles for an inside chimney, or 1" for an outside chimney.)
Are you going to meet clearance with the stove?
Do you have enough floor protection in front of the stove?
The stove sits on a raise hearth, 18" above the floor, and sits just inside a masonary fireplace metal lined. The chimney has a stainless steel liner in place (which was just cleaned). There is a fire retardant rug in front on the floor.
I'm not sure the rug is sufficient - but my knowledge doesn't go that far.
The rest sounds good.
It'd be best if the liner is insulated; stoves work better that way, it's safer, and code/insurance like it better.
If the fireplace in which it sits is on an outside wall, do you have rockwool insulation behind the metal? Otherwise you'd loose quite some heat that radiates out into the masonry and which then radiates out to the great outdoors.
Do you have a (sealed and insulated) block-off plate? That helps a lot preventing cold air coming down next to the liner when the stove is not in use, and heat going up when it is.
The rest sounds good.
It'd be best if the liner is insulated; stoves work better that way, it's safer, and code/insurance like it better.
If the fireplace in which it sits is on an outside wall, do you have rockwool insulation behind the metal? Otherwise you'd loose quite some heat that radiates out into the masonry and which then radiates out to the great outdoors.
Do you have a (sealed and insulated) block-off plate? That helps a lot preventing cold air coming down next to the liner when the stove is not in use, and heat going up when it is.
Considering the fireplace opening is 41" wide and the F500 is 28 1/4" wide and 22 1/2" deep, what is the size of the loading door?
