Jotul F600 ash pan door

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Did you happen to get a home warranty? I’ve personally not had luck but I know others have.
Evan
 
not that i know of....wishing I had. I have a gut feeling I am going to find a crack tonight
 
not that i know of....wishing I had. I have a gut feeling I am going to find a crack tonight
Has anyone seen Jotul doors oval out the thru holes where the door hinge pin goes? I am wondering if I can ream out the 3 holes and but a precision pin to drop in to eliminate the sagging issue assuming no cracks.
 
You might be able to use a pipe clamp or two as temporary stop gap to keep the ash pan door closed and sealed. The ash pan area gets hot but nothing like the top. Ie I would only use all metal clamps. I might feel more comfortable using a very large hose clamp or cable clamping how about those metal band clamp they secure stuff to pallets with.
something Could and would not fall off.

I let ash build up in the firebox compress and then stir it down the grate. Every couple days I could go about two weeks with out emptying the pan.
 
You might be able to use a pipe clamp or two as temporary stop gap to keep the ash pan door closed and sealed. The ash pan area gets hot but nothing like the top. Ie I would only use all metal clamps. I might feel more comfortable using a very large hose clamp or cable clamping how about those metal band clamp they secure stuff to pallets with.
something Could and would not fall off.

I let ash build up in the firebox compress and then stir it down the grate. Every couple days I could go about two weeks with out emptying the pan.
what are you thinking of clamping shut?
 
Ash pan door. If you wanted to test burn to check for other leaks.
 
I found a crack in what I believe is the bottom plate. Any suggestions? I think this might be part of latching issue?

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That doesn't look so good. Clean the stove out and look for cracks and other air leaks in the base. Hopefully your missing calking at the seams.

As to the ash door issue, my Oslo is identical. That is the same sag at the latch size. Mine is 20 years old. But basically it just the hinge pivots are an inch apart, and the other end is 16 inches away. Just pushing mine close it rides up, into place. I have been doing that without realizing it. The rotating the latch, the flag pulls in in tight. Compressing the spring in you picture, completely.
 
I could only dream of an ash pan in my insert so I get to be very careful with a shovel and bucket.
 
I could only dream of an ash pan in my insert so I get to be very careful with a shovel and bucket.
Try using a shallow, long tray or pan, hold it right under the door and tilt the shovel, sliding the ash off into the bottom of the pan. Much less airborne dust that way, once you get good at it.
 
Try using a shallow, long tray or pan, hold it right under the door and tilt the shovel, sliding the ash off into the bottom of the pan. Much less airborne dust that way, once you get good at it.
I’ve gotten very good with a smaller sized bucket working slowly in the opening of the insert. The draft keeps much of the dust within the fire box.
If I never saw a buddy empty his ash I wouldn’t have any envy. So simple.

I do use an old cookie sheet for the ash in the wood boiler. It’s in the basement so ash isn’t such a big deal with wood working equipment around plus I can flip on the shop air filter. I keep the floor swept and vacuumed on a regular basis down there anyway.
 
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UPDATE

I rebuilt my stove over the weekend, right before my son was born (yesterday!)

It just wasn't safe for the family.

5 tubes of stove cement, 1 tube of gasket cement, all new gaskets, new cast bottom and new lower front bottom later it's all back together. I cleaned it all up with stove polish as the paint was in good shape.

Huge shout out to my local Jotel dealer, Brian was great.

The first picture is the stove in pieces in the living room. The second is the root of the problem, a worn latch tab on the lower front base piece where the ash door latches closed. I suspect the leaking ash pan door caused the base to crack and the internal grate to potato chip.

Will post a picture of it burning when I can.

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UPDATE

I rebuilt my stove over the weekend...5 tubes of stove cement, 1 tube of gasket cement, all new gaskets, new cast bottom and new lower front bottom later it's all back together
You da man! >>
Gasketed seams on the stove? For the sides, top, bottom or what? Where did you use the stove cement?
Gaskets sound like a better solution to the seams, can't crack and fall out like cement. Any evidence that the gaskets may have been leaking in spots?
 
Congrats on the new baby! Our fourth boy's first real words last month were “hot hot” as he held out a flat hand to the wood stove.
Evan
 
You da man! >>
Gasketed seams on the stove? For the sides, top, bottom or what? Where did you use the stove cement?
Gaskets sound like a better solution to the seams, can't crack and fall out like cement. Any evidence that the gaskets may have been leaking in spots?

the stove is a combination of cement and woven gaskets.

I had the luxury of having the factory overhaul manual. It was very specific about where cement went and where gaskets went. The base I replaced used about 2 full tubes of cement all in to seal up all the air paths.

I still can't believe how bad the ash pan door latch area was....still trying to figure out how previous owners ran it......I had trouble right away keeping the air in check...it wanted to run way too hot.

best short term advice was to fill the bottom up with sand, that allowed me to "disable" the ash pan and block the air leak so I could use it safely while the parts came in from Maine.
 
Well done and congratulations to you and mom. Were you able to procure Jotul's stove cement or did you use a similar product like Hearthstone's cement?
 
i used Rutland cement. It's what the overhaul instructions called for. I didn't know the stove mfgs had their own cements.