Jotul GF 600 DV ii air shutter

[Pleasant1]

Can anyone explain how to set the Jotul air shutter? The directions in the manual are terrible. Is 5/16 or 1/8 open, back from a fully closed postion or back from a fully opened position on then slide on the bottom with the wingnut? Then it states you can try different places and use what you like. I thought the measurement amount was supposed to be for the best fuel usage .
Thanks!

 

[DAKSY]

The 5/16 or 1/8 dimension is from fully closed. The air shutter specification is for flame appearance. If you want your stove to burn cleanly, open the shutter all the way. The flames will be blue, but the stove will burn clean. That is the natural flame color that comes from burning LP or NG. If you want the flames to look like a wood fire, you need to “dirty” the flames to get them yellow. Tweaking the air shutter to decrease the amount of O2 in the air to fuel (ATF) mixture will result in yellower flames.

 

[Pleasant1]

The 5/16 or 1/8 dimension is from fully closed. The air shutter specification is for flame appearance. If you want your stove to burn cleanly, open the shutter all the way. The flames will be blue, but the stove will burn clean. That is the natural flame color that comes from burning LP or NG. If you want the flames to look like a wood fire, you need to “dirty” the flames to get them yellow. Tweaking the air shutter to decrease the amount of O2 in the air to fuel (ATF) mixture will result in yellower flames.

Thank you. Do you have any opinion on my post from this past Monday?

 

[DAKSY]

I read it, but I don’t understand what you mean by the “whole inside turning yellow”…As far as the operation goes, I would pull the burner & burner orifice & clean behind the orifice with a Qtip or small bristle brush. Also try blowing out the burner with compressed air. When you reassemble, make sure the burner orifice & burner are IN LINE. You want the LP gas to be injected into the center of the burner so it doesn’t blow out the air shutter. LP is heavier than air & will “puddle” at the bottom of the firebox. Once that “puddle” gets deep enough to reach the pilot flame, ALL the fuel will ignite. That’s the “poof” you’re experiencing.

 

[Pleasant1]

I read it, but I don’t understand what you mean by the “whole inside turning yellow”…As far as the operation goes, I would pull the burner & burner orifice & clean behind the orifice with a Qtip or small bristle brush. Also try blowing out the burner with compressed air. When you reassemble, make sure the burner orifice & burner are IN LINE. You want the LP gas to be injected into the center of the burner so it doesn’t blow out the air shutter. LP is heavier than air & will “puddle” at the bottom of the firebox. Once that “puddle” gets deep enough to reach the pilot flame, ALL the fuel will ignite. That’s the “poof” you’re experiencing.

It was a mass of yellow, no real separation of flames. I turned it off quickly.
The poofs that have happened have been after it goes off, not when starting. Someone else suggested cleaning the inside so I vacuumed under the skirt and back plate, did not take out burned but vacuumed all the holes and poked all holes with a piece of wire. The pilot assembly does look lined up with the burner. After all that yesterday by phone someone guided me to start the stove without the logs or glass and detach the remote wires. Turned on rocker switch to manual, it took a while but did light, left on for a while. The person suggested puuting the glass back and turning it on occasionally to see what would happen. A few hours later, I went to start it with rocker switch and it would not start, turned off and got poof again.

 

[DAKSY]

Please post a pic of the interior with the front & logs removed. It doesn’t need to be burning.

 

[Pleasant1]

Please post a pic of the interior with the front & logs removed. It doesn’t need to be burning.

Here it is, the pilot is on. I can provide the link to the manual also.

 

[DAKSY]

You have a “pan” burner. They used to put a bent tube burner in there. You probably should pull the burner out & clean it make sure the top (stainless steel) & bottom (cast iron) are sealed together.
While you’re in there pull the burner orifice with a wrench or socket & clean the gas line feeding it.

 

[Lennox65]

It was a mass of yellow, no real separation of flames. I turned it off quickly.
The poofs that have happened have been after it goes off, not when starting. Someone else suggested cleaning the inside so I vacuumed under the skirt and back plate, did not take out burned but vacuumed all the holes and poked all holes with a piece of wire. The pilot assembly does look lined up with the burner. After all that yesterday by phone someone guided me to start the stove without the logs or glass and detach the remote wires. Turned on rocker switch to manual, it took a while but did light, left on for a while. The person suggested puuting the glass back and turning it on occasionally to see what would happen. A few hours later, I went to start it with rocker switch and it would not start, turned off and got poof again.

The "poofs" when it shuts down are called "extinction pop". "It's usually caused by gas in the burner that's moving too slowly. If the gas in the burner is moving fast enough, the gas can't burn down inside the burner and must burn on top of the burner where it should."

Too much primary air will cause this as well as delayed ignition. I would try closing the air shutter most of the way to see if that makes a difference. Just watch the flames for signs of soot and open the air shutter incrementally.

 

[Pleasant1]

The "poofs" when it shuts down are called "extinction pop". "It's usually caused by gas in the burner that's moving too slowly. If the gas in the burner is moving fast enough, the gas can't burn down inside the burner and must burn on top of the burner where it should."

Too much primary air will cause this as well as delayed ignition. I would try closing the air shutter most of the way to see if that makes a difference. Just watch the flames for signs of soot and open the air shutter incrementally.

A suggestion above was burning it completely open so as to burn it clean, so I am a little confused now about this aspect.

 

[Pleasant1]

You have a “pan” burner. They used to put a bent tube burner in there. You probably should pull the burner out & clean it make sure the top (stainless steel) & bottom (cast iron) are sealed together.
While you’re in there pull the burner orifice with a wrench or socket & clean the gas line feeding it.

Thank you. At this point and with all the things that have been happening, I may need to find someone who can troubleshoot the whole situation. That may be easier said than done.

 

[Lennox65]

A suggestion above was burning it completely open so as to burn it clean, so I am a little confused now about this aspect.

It is a long explanation but the short version is: you have tried it with the air shutter wide open with no results.
Try it with the air shutter mostly closed and see if you have a different result.

 

[Pleasant1]

Thank you. At this point and with all the things that have been happening, I may need to find someone who can troubleshoot the whole situation. That may be easier said than done.

Are there any resources for finding local hands on assistance?

 

[DAKSY]

Google for NFI certified gas specialists…
Where are you in Mass?