Jotul vs Blaze King vs Vermont Castings Wood Stove?

[ShaneMac]

Okay so I know you did not put 'absolutes' on anything but having my situation in mind do you (and others) think I should avoid a catalytic stove all together or just the Blaze King's because of their requirements?

I'm in the same predicament as you and you may find my post under the Blazeking folder. There is all those what if's and the biggest one is what if it just does not work well. You are stuck with the stove. What I have been told is that it will still work but you may be limited to how far down you can turn it down before it wants to snuff itself out.

I'm the one with the heatpump and that is where begreen got the confusion.

 

[begreen]

Yep, I was thinking square. Still odd considering they sell oval liner too.

 

[begreen]

I'm in the same predicament as you and you may find my post under the Blazeking folder. There is all those what if's and the biggest one is what if it just does not work well. You are stuck with the stove. What I have been told is that it will still work but you may be limited to how far down you can turn it down before it wants to snuff itself out.

I'm the one with the heatpump and that is where begreen got the confusion.

In Hexa's case, there comes a point where using electricity, even if just a space heater, makes more sense in milder weather if there is power in the building.

 

[Hexa Fox]

A 6" equivalent rectangle is only about 4.5 x 9 or so. So it would fit. But rectangle costs more than oval doesn't draft as well and isn't as flexible. Just doesn't make sense to me.

Yes. So I am not fully understanding. He did originally recommend oval but after seeing my setup he said that the 4.5" x 7.56" option there on the website is what he recommended. I definitely want the best draft possible because I am still looking at catalytic stoves. Looking at what begreen sent now. Eyeballing that phone number too lmao. I hope these competitors do not talk to each other or they are going to start talking about me.

 

[Hexa Fox]

In Hexa's case, there comes a point where using electricity, even if just a space heater, makes more sense in milder weather if there is power in the building.

Yes, we have baseboard electric heat and I have a couple space heaters. I am also planning on installing a mini-split for the bedrooms which also have heat but want it more for AC and to get rid of the horrid window AC units. We have a large wall AC unit that I absolutely love. It can cool off the whole house in seconds and the actual unit nor the electric bill get too expensive. When my father had this last one put in he had a local business install it and I think the overall cost was $600-$700.

 

[Hexa Fox]

I'm in the same predicament as you and you may find my post under the Blazeking folder. There is all those what if's and the biggest one is what if it just does not work well. You are stuck with the stove. What I have been told is that it will still work but you may be limited to how far down you can turn it down before it wants to snuff itself out.

I'm the one with the heatpump and that is where begreen got the confusion.

Yep I have seen this too. Another concern from BK is some people report them making a whistling sound when locked down. Some say it is ever so faint and others seem to be slamming their head against their wall to alleviate the problem. It is a concern for me because the room in which the wood stove is in is a entertainment room that I spend a lot of time in. The is a gaming setup with many monitors where I am on my computer or playing my Xbox. So an annoying whistling noise would not be welcome.

As I mentioned the BK's get overwhelming positive reviews overall. The consensus seems to be that the Princess is by far the best bet if you are worried about problems. I have also seen the concern with fires dying quickly when locked down in general with the catalyst stoves. In turn my entertainment room could benefit from a stove like the Princess that has a lot of control.

 

[Hoytman]

If a liner can be fitted, then fit it. Keep your existing liner intact. If at all possible never tear out a clay liner if it is good. I know people disagree. That’s ok.

“Recommended” means for “optimal” draft…the best draft you can get.

Going to plug @logfarmer to tell you about how well his King model drafts on a clay lined two-story chimney. It isn’t optimal, but it works and is clean at the end of the year.

Half the battle is knowing what good dry wood is and having a good clean catalyst.

 

[Hexa Fox]

If a liner can be fitted, then fit it. Keep your existing liner intact. If at all possible never tear out a clay liner if it is good. I know people disagree. That’s ok.

“Recommended” means for “optimal” draft…the best draft you can get.

Going to plug @logfarmer to tell you about how well his King model drafts on a clay lined two-story chimney. It isn’t optimal, but it works and is clean at the end of the year.

Half the battle is knowing what good dry wood is and having a good clean catalyst.

Yep I have heard "seasoned fuel" over and over again. I have a moisture meter somewhere so I plan to split a couple of my pieces and see what it says. I have a lot of Ash in my IBC totes now. A rough estimate would be that I have enough wood for 2-3 years out there now. Some of the wood has been split and stacked anywhere between 2-3 years as well. The newest stuff is some of the Ash and other stuff I was splitting January of this year. I have heard Ash is the best wood for losing moisture quickly I believe. Well seasoned fuel is something we have always been really bad it. When my father was alive we would always order and stack it in the Fall and it was always a pain in the @$$. I plan to keep wood here. I have some room to stack some now, may even order some to keep me busy, start stacking and have it here for 2-3 years drying.

The major concern is it just does not work for some people. Some people seem to have shorter chimneys with them working and some seem to have larger chimneys and have issues. I realize that the straighter and longer you have it the better off you are. However, after what everyone has said I would say I am in the 'functional' range and just barley up from the bare minimum for a BK Princess. Still looking at the Ashford 30.2 but may not consider it anymore since I have heard the Princess 32 is more tolerant of draft etc.

 

[Hexa Fox]

Home :: Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DuraLiner 6 :: DuraVent 6'' DuraLiner Oval Rigid Pipe 48'' - 4648-OP // 6DLR-48O

M&G DuraVent 6" DuraLiner Oval Rigid Pipe 48" - 4648-OPFactory insulated, Oval Rigid Pipe is available in 6" and 8" diameters; 12", 24", 36", and 48" lengths. Insulated. Built-in pre drilled fittings for riveting joints. UL Listed for zero clearance betwe

woodstovepro.com

Okay called the number and talked to a pretty knowledgeable gentleman. Someone correct me if I am wrong but there are two HUGE advantages to using this stuff. The first is simply that the longest section is 48" so that is all you are wrestling down your chimney at one time as opposed to one giant 20' run. The second is that he said this stuff is pre-insulated, so you do not need to wrap it and probably makes running it even easier. So contrary to what is advertised should you insulate this stuff or is it truly 'good to go'? I have also never used a rivet gun before but I imagine it will not be hard to figure out.

He also just got back to me with some parts totaling $2,300 which I am fine with if this stuff is better and easier to deal with by myself. I am not a fan of my roof. Thanks for this by the way begreen.

 

[bholler]

Okay called the number and talked to a pretty knowledgeable gentleman. Someone correct me if I am wrong but there are two HUGE advantages to using this stuff. The first is simply that the longest section is 48" so that is all you are wrestling down your chimney at one time as opposed to one giant 20' run. The second is that he said this stuff is pre-insulated, so you do not need to wrap it and probably makes running it even easier. So contrary to what is advertised should you insulate this stuff or is it truly 'good to go'? I have also never used a rivet gun before but I imagine it will not be hard to figure out.

He also just got back to me with some parts totaling $2,300 which I am fine with if this stuff is better and easier to deal with by myself. I am not a fan of my roof. Thanks for this by the way begreen.

Yes it's easier to put each piece in but it means you have to support what's in there while you attach the next piece. I find it more of a pain some people think it's easier. And no need to insulate further other than the flex section at the bottom.

 

[Hexa Fox]

And no need to insulate further other than the flex section at the bottom.

Does that mean just the horizontal liner that is going to run through the thimble?

 

[bholler]

Does that mean just the horizontal liner that is going to run through the thimble?

Oh nevermind sorry I was confused and thinking this was an insert you won't have flex. One major thing to check for is how the thimble goes through the wall. What type of wall does it pass through?

 

[Hexa Fox]

Oh nevermind sorry I was confused and thinking this was an insert you won't have flex. One major thing to check for is how the thimble goes through the wall. What type of wall does it pass through?

I'm not sure how to answer this. Mason? It is brick lined with the mortar thimble. The big concern for me is that there is that there is going to be a lot of free space in there. I guess I could ask for the 8" since it takes up more space but I'm do not know if I will create problems for myself or not. I'm not certain if the 2x4 framing is behind the hearth or what. My father built this with a professional brick layer a long time ago. Cannot ask him now.

EDIT
Also just got another email and rep said that the liner that goes through the thimble just "pushes" onto the tee. I'm not sure I really like just hoping that it stays together and much rather have a worm gear clamp or something. I guess a plus is that it seems like it will be another easy thing to do.

 

[bholler]

I'm not sure how to answer this. Mason? It is brick lined with the mortar thimble. The big concern for me is that there is that there is going to be a lot of free space in there. I guess I could ask for the 8" since it takes up more space but I'm do not know if I will create problems for myself or not. I'm not certain if the 2x4 framing is behind the hearth or what. My father built this with a professional brick layer a long time ago. Cannot ask him now.

EDIT
Also just got another email and rep said that the liner that goes through the thimble just "pushes" onto the tee. I'm not sure I really like just hoping that it stays together and much rather have a worm gear clamp or something. I guess a plus is that it seems like it will be another easy thing to do.
View attachment 315906

What does it look like outside?

 

[Hexa Fox]

What does it look like outside?

Umm, I hope this is what you want? lol

 

[bholler]

Umm, I hope this is what you want? lol
View attachment 315911View attachment 315910View attachment 315912

Is the crock on the first floor?

 

[Hexa Fox]

Is the crock on the first floor?

If you consider the ground floor the first floor then yes. If for some reason it matters remember my first floor is halfway underground. So you see the top of the door behind the hedge? The crock is about 12" or so above that in the chimney for reference.

 

[bholler]

If you consider the ground floor the first floor then yes. If for some reason it matters remember my first floor is halfway underground. So you see the top of the door behind the hedge? The crock is about 12" or so above that in the chimney for reference.

Ok so it's going through a masonry wall. So probably not an issue

 

[Hexa Fox]

Ok so it's going through a masonry wall. So probably not an issue

That means it is likely covered by mostly brick and the rest is filled with mortar/cement?

 

[bholler]

That means it is likely covered by mostly brick and the rest is filled with mortar/cement?

Hopefully it means the interior brick backs up against the block wall and there is no combustible material sandwiched between the 2

 

[Hoytman]

Deleted by Hoytman. Didn’t want to change thread focus.

 

[bholler]

I usually check by drilling a few test holes through mortar joints and see what I hit

 

[Hoytman]

He has the same issue I have. Not really knowing what is behind, and not wanting to tear too far into something our father and grandfather built while needing to make sure it is still safe.

For me, as it stands it’s worked since 1976, which on one hand means a lot, and on the other hand doesn’t mean anything. It could be safe, or it could spell disaster the longer time goes on.

Only benefit I have is chimney is totally within the framework of the home, it’s fully inside, and I can tear into the back side to inspect without disturbing the hearth rock.

 

[Hoytman]

Sorry, BHoller…I reposted since you replied faster than I could edit.

 

[Ashful]

You are stuck with the stove.

Get out of this mind-set. You are stuck with the chimney, it's too expensive and too big a project to want to "do it over". You want to get the chimney setup right, the first time.

But stoves can be swapped quickly, easily, and with relatively little money lost. I went thru five stoves in three years, @bholler and @webby3650 seem to each get a new stove every second or third year, and I think @begreen might have us all beat on rapid stove swapping. It's nice to get it right the first time, but if you don't you can swap stoves in an afternoon, and resell the old one for enough to take most of the sting out of the transaction.

I actually sold each of my old Jotuls for equal or more than I paid for them, so in my case, the only expense in swapping stoves was a few pieces of chimney connector pipe at $60 - $120/ea.

You're married to that house and chimney, at least for now, but not the stove!