Just picked up a Jamestown J1000 for my workshop OAK Question

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

doublewide

Member
Jun 14, 2010
119
Eastern PA
Can I dill a 2" hole in my square metal wall thimble to vent my OAK, so that I don't have another hole on the side of my building? I'm figuring that I can do this as long as the end termination is at least 12" from the OAK? Also where online can I get a wall thimble for 3" pellet pipe and 1 5/8" OAK vent pipe I only need about 4'. Or can I find the OAK at the big box stores.
Anyone else has a Jamestown J1000? Do you have an OAK installed on it. Thanks
 
I used some Walker flex pipe (car exhaust stuff). Simple little oak in a corner. I couldn't find a thimble like that and didn't really mind another hole. That size pipe isn't easy to find either.
OAK2_zps19f7ff18.jpg
 
Thanks for the quick pic. That looks really good to me. What size Walker flex pipe is that?
 
Can't remember exactly - looking for the link I used to buy it... It's almost exactly the same as the intake pipe on the stove. To connect them I just used a piece of aluminum flashing rolled and stuck inside the intake - fits the ID of the flex pipe perfectly, tight friction fit. Ah, found it - Walker 36319:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AGMRA4/ref=pe_175190_21431760_A_cs_sce_dp_1

Looks like its 1.5" ID
 
Thanks for the help again. How did you treat the outside? Is there a screen. Maybe I could conceal it in a dryer vent, or find a pipe that is 1.5 inches by like a foot long and push it through the wall and screen the end.
 
I used PVC - put a 45 deg. elbow on the outside pointed down and made a screen to go inside it out of 1/4" hardware cloth. The piece on the inside wall is a connector. That was the only funky bit. It was a little too small ID for the flex pipe so I had to rout about a sixteenth out of it to make it fit. Seems to work fine though - It never gets any ice on it, even in the sub-zero cold. 'Course it is right next to the exhaust which probably helps warm it up some. I guess I ought to paint it - it's a little rusty after last summer...
 
Congrats on the purchase.

There is a Thimble thats sold with the OAK hook up. My buddy has one, but never installed the OAK.

Easy to do. Keep the 12" clearance and all should be well.
2012-10-28_15-40-10_941.jpg
 
I used PVC - put a 45 deg. elbow on the outside pointed down and made a screen to go inside it out of 1/4" hardware cloth. The piece on the inside wall is a connector. That was the only funky bit. It was a little too small ID for the flex pipe so I had to rout about a sixteenth out of it to make it fit. Seems to work fine though - It never gets any ice on it, even in the sub-zero cold. 'Course it is right next to the exhaust which probably helps warm it up some. I guess I ought to paint it - it's a little rusty after last summer...

I would just do the whole thing in PVC, but I heard it is a fire hazard because pvc can burn. I believe that if the main exhaust gets plugged up from snow or ash that the gasses will escape out the OAK. So, that is why I'm thinking a metal pipe. But your idea should work for what I'm doing minus the PVC.

Dexter, I'm going to try to find that thimble with the OAk hole or drill mine out if I can't get one. Thanks for all the help.
 
Yup - that's why I sent with metal for the part near the stove. Those flex pipes are 18" long so maybe two of them joined would do it for you.
 
Here is a little update for anyone following this post. I ordered the walker exhaust flex pipe in the 1.5 inch diameter (3 of them). I found them on ebay for only $6 a piece, with shipping total was $23. I ordered the thimble from home depot because I could not find the thimble that included the OAK hole at a reasonable price. I plan on drilling out the hole myself. I spent several hours working on my stove just to fix everything that needed attention. The bolt that latches the door was stripped so I retapped the hole a larger size. The heat exchanger tube scraper was broken off the handle/rod, so I rewelded it. The burn pot had the beginning of a crack, so I welded that. The timer knob was broken, so I attached a new one (which was hard to get with the right size square hole). I blew out the back of the stove with compressed air. The guy that had the stove said he never needed to fix anything on the stove ever and it looked like the back was never opened up judging by the dust in there. Finally I vaccumed out the stove and blew it out with compressed air. I could not believe how much dust was in that stove I blew it out for at least 20 minutes and dust just kept coming out of the thing. I got a chance to fire up the Jamestown stove and I really like how she burns nice large flame and very torch like. As far as the heat I don't know for sure, but it seemed good for being out in the driveway in the freezing cold. Thanks for your help and suggestions any other Jamestown users that have information on these stoves please chime in.
 
That great - it's working. It's just a shop stove and doesn't have to be perfect... Did you get it cheap? Sounds like it was pretty well abused but they're solid little stoves and can be brought back with a little TLC. BTW, was that a cast iron burn pot you welded?
 
You should still be able to download the manual from the Jamestown website; it gives detailed cleaning instructions. There are lots of "hidden" areas to clean on that stove that are important to maintain clean.
 
That great - it's working. It's just a shop stove and doesn't have to be perfect... Did you get it cheap? Sounds like it was pretty well abused but they're solid little stoves and can be brought back with a little TLC. BTW, was that a cast iron burn pot you welded?
I picked up the stove for $250 and an extra $50 for about 9 feet of 3" pellet pipe, 2 90's, 1 cleanout T, 1 stove adapter, 1 end termination, 1 wall clamp, a bottle of fire gel, extra rope gasket, and a manual. The burn pot was cast iron I believe. I do not think the stove was abused, just not maintained well. Today, I had an hour or so, to paint it and made a little video for my youtube channel. I'm pleased with the results. I was not planning on painting it, but I knew it would be easy to do since I had it in the middle of the garage. I will post the link on this thread.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DexterDay
Status
Not open for further replies.