Just when I thought I was getting it!! (everburn)

[Diabel]

I never really had a problem getting the everburn going & hey most of the time it would stay on! My problem was always burn times (5-6hrs max). Well, Monday morning I stuffed her to the rim, I jammed 2" splits between the big ones. What do you know, I had an 8hr burn & 400 griddle at reload (YES!!) I can live with that. For my next reload I carefully chose my wood (couple of nice oak splits, one big & very dry apple split & couple of cherry splits. I engaged everburn at 400 (not bad I think). The rummble was quite loud therefore I shut the air all the way. My thoughts ware "hey I am finally getting it". As usual I kept a close eye on the stove. Two hrs. into the burn the flue temp reached 700 (8" above the stove), griddle was at 650. My thoughts were...it's ok pipes are clean I s/b ok as long as it doesn't keep going up. Then I looked at the back & the thing was glowing red! (blood red). It stabilized after 30min. Not a pretty sight! The flame was quite lively during that time & I swear the back of the firebox, right by the shoe was glowing red too! After seeing those flames I think I will go ahead I replace the door gaskets (ash pan replaced few weeks ago). Even though I did the $$ bill test on the doors & only around the hinges I could pull the bill out (with a lot of resistance).

Today, another story...I had to re-engage the everburn 5 times within one burn cycle, the darn smoke kept coming back. I work from home so I can keep my eye on the fire, but today this thing made me very unproductive

 

[BurningIsLove]

That can be the defining characteristic of this this type of design. I still have some days when the stove has been non-stop operation for 3+ days, draft is good, atmospherics are favorable, deep coal bed, dry seasoned splits, etc etc, and Im just confounded why it stalls after repeating reload steps that had worked perfectly for days.

As for the temps running away on you, that is another phenomenon of this stove. While I'll never advise you to not replace gaskets, I've had this experience with new gaskets, old gaskets, and stages in between. Chances are you dont have a gasket leak. In my experience, every once in a while all the factors will be exactly favorable, and it drafts so hard that you wind up w/ a 'thermonuclear' event. Unfortunately, I have found nothing that can stop it once it happens. But it normally only lasts 30-90 minutes before there are less waste gases to burn and it calms down. It's very unnerving, especially the first few times. Take some comfort that VC produces a well built stove and its not likely going to be the point of failure.

My favorite responses to this have been to the effect of "try mixing in some less seasoned wood" or other steps like that, but it's a catch-22. Despite what a lot of folks on this forum I respect have said, you truly cannot predict when its going to happen. So if you plan as if its going to happen and intentionally take steps to reduce efficiency, most times you'll stall the stove.

It's analogous to a car own complaining to the dealer that their new car isnt running well, so the dealer says to use premium grade gasoline. Later on the car catches fire, and the manufacturer says its the owners fault for using premium gasoline vs. regular.

 

[Diabel]

I just have a hard time sleeping with the stove (full of wood) going.

 

[BurningIsLove]

Because you're concerned about an accident or because you like to sleep in a cold room? ( I for example prefer my room no warmer than 62 when Im sleeping). Im a worry-wart light-sleeper, but the stove running all night is not one of those concerns.

 

[Diabel]

Unfortunately, I have found nothing that can stop it once it happens. But it normally only lasts 30-90 minutes before there are less waste gases to burn and it calms down. It's very unnerving, especially the first few times.

What was your temp readings while this was happening?

 

[BurningIsLove]

I didnt have a flu gas (probe) thermometer at the time, but the thermometer on the flu pipe connector (about 3" behind the collar) was around 750 and the stove about 700. I've since learned through calibrations that the flu gas generally reads about 2.5x the surface temp, so that have been about 1900 degrees for flu gas.

First couple of times I thought I must have a leaky gasket somewhere, but never found one in all my tests. And given the frequency of stalls, I'd guess that a leaky gasket would have prevented that all the other times.

Look on the bright side, if you're good about sweeping your chimney and preventing creosote buildup, such a hot fire will clean off what little collects. (if only it was that simple)

 

[Diabel]

I am just worried that one night it will happen while my whole family is fast asleep (two little ones). That is why I stick around until that stage of the burn is behind me. SOUNDS CRAZY!

 

[BurningIsLove]

Doesnt sound crazy at all....that's precisely what I did the first time. I couldnt go to sleep when it was in that mode. But I find that if you close the bypass after getting it at hot point, choke the air to minimum and its still burning in that sweet zone, after 30 minutes you can sleep soundly knowing that it would have gone thermo within that 30 minutes if it was going to at all for that load.....

 

[swestall]

They should put these posts in the VC Everburn Marketing Brochure to make sure more people will buy the NON-CAT stove.

 

[Diabel]

I just have a hard time sleeping with the stove (full of wood) going.

This one s/b on the front page!

 

[begreen]

Can you take a photo of this the next time it happens? A slow shutter speed full color picture will speak volumes.

Note: In the Encore 1450 NC manual the following caveat:

"DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If
any part of the Encore glows, you are overfiring."

(Yes, that is the same caveat as printed in the Encore Cat 2550 manual.)

 

[Diabel]

Can you take a photo of this the next time it happens? A slow shutter speed full color picture will speak volumes.

I will try, it might not be easy. It would be nice to show such photo here....


Note: In the Encore 1450 NC manual the following caveat:

"DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If
any part of the Encore glows, you are overfiring."

Yeah, I read that part many times & just shook my head! My dealer said that VC has reinforced the back of the stove in order to prevent it from warping. Am I ever glad that my inspector insisted & would not sign off on the inspection without me building out the wall i.e. 1" air space between the actual wall & the decorative wall! That wall sure gets hot when the stove glows, you can not touch it!

I wonder if the back did warp or crack from overheating, would VC honor the warranty?

 

[begreen]

I've wondered the same. Bet a SuperCedar they wouldn't.

 

[Chrisg]

I went ahead and installed an in line flue damper to help control the unexplainable runaway "thermonuclear" I think it has been referred to.This runaway will sometimes happen to me for what ever reason which I have yet to figure out and at least with the inline damper I can really choke it back down to a more manageable-safe temp.I have Dutchwest 2479 nc.

 

[Diabel]

I went ahead and installed an in line flue damper to help control the unexplainable runaway "thermonuclear" I think it has been referred to.This runaway will sometimes happen to me for what ever reason which I have yet to figure out and at least with the inline damper I can really choke it back down to a more manageable-safe temp.I have Dutchwest 2479 nc.

So even with the damper you still get the runaways?

 

[dtabor]

I guess Ive been lucky thus far. The only time my stove has gone crazy is with the damper open. I went by one time early on and the stove pipe right after the collar was glowing. I closed the damper and it stopped. It seems when the new load gets going, the draft sucks the fire into the chimney or something.

 

[dtabor]

Chrisg, where in the NEK are you? I may not be too far from you.....

 

[Chrisg]

I only use the inline as needed ie. the occasional runaway and use the regular stove controls for "normal" fires.From what I can tell the runaway develops when it is subzero and the draft just starts really pulling.18 ft double wall SS chimney straight up.
Another small correction that we have made while operating the stove is to firmly rotate the main stove damper control closed to the left which apparently cam locks this damper closed.I did not know this before, found out about it while changing inner top. Funny thing is my wife swore that is exactly what we should be doing and I disagreed only to have to show her she was right once I took it apart.This has made a huge difference with the overall stove performance.I think before the damper may have been pretty much floating on the gasket and not sealing properly.
Saint J area.

 

[swestall]

Go to bed, take two asprins and call me in the morning. (If your house is still there)