Also, I see multiple references to vacuuming out this secondary chamber - anytime I've tried to use a shop vac to vacuum out ash, most of it comes out the back end of the shop vac! I just use a grain (short) shovel to empty ash from the primary chamber but don't know how any of you can vacuum ash without either ruining the vacuum or filling your room with ash dust. I was in the direct path of Mt. St. Helens ash fallout in 1980 and the only way we could contain it was to get it wet which is why I'm considering that when we pull the stove. Thanks!
Kent Tile Fire (and Sherwood) stoves
- Thread starter precaud
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Jan Pijpelink
Minister of Fire
tlc1976
Minister of Fire
Use a fine dust filter or bag in your shop vac. Sometimes they say for drywall dust. A hepa filter/bag will work too.
Hi moved into old farm house .I think this may be a Kent but not sure?It also has 2 controls a slider on left side and a handle in middle can someone explain the function for these there are no markings on it ..any information would be greatly appreciated.
tlc1976
Minister of Fire
Not sure but the door and door sill looks like my old Sherwood. The lever on the left is probably the air intake control. The rod in the middle probably moves a plate over the flue. Pull the rod out to start the stove. Once it’s going close the door and push the rod back in to send the exhaust through a chamber on top of the stove. The top burn chamber should have a bunch of holes in a plate on the inside roof of the stove.
Thankyou very much
Thankyou
So air intake controls the air flow so by adjusting it to lesson the air flow will slow down how quickly the wood burns?
It has no markings left on it so do you know if slide to right is that more or less?
Jan Pijpelink
Minister of Fire
I had a Kent Tile Fire. The air intake lever; to the left less air, to the right more air. When adjusting it, watch the flames and you know exactly what and how.
tlc1976
Minister of Fire
Don’t know which way is which but you’ll figure it out when you build your first fire. If you’re not familiar with burning wood then please take some advice from forum members before you do so.
I would start your own thread on this. Others may be able to better identify your stove and give good advice.
Hi,
After many hours this morning I have determined that I have an old Kent TileFire, I think from around 1980. I've had the house for around 4 years, and have used the fire to varying amounts for about three winters. I had the fire checked when I bought the house, someone came out to see if it meets the current standards for my state (Western Australia). This winter I've felt like it has been using a lot more wood.
This morning I noticed that the ceiling on the wood burning area looked really bad. I think I've now worked out that this is the baffle, and I'm pretty sure mine is, well, destroyed. The plate that should have nice holes in has missing pieces at the bottom of the holes, and the plate is dropped. Looking very much like teeth and gaping jaw from a Stephen King novel..
From reading it appears that the baffle in the TF is welded in, and isn't a simple replacement job. I have a sad, sad feeling that my fire may just be at the end of its life, but I wanted to try a last ditch hopeful query.
I've attached two photos, one is from the OP and is what I think I should be seeing,the second is what I am actually seeing. Apologies for photo clarity, the fire is on and quite scalding. I suspect, now that I've actually read up on fires, that I've been overburning, and probably using logs too long for the TF.
1) is my TF cactus and I need to replace it?
2) Any suggestions for a similar fire for replacement? This thing is a beast and without any type of fan or anything it heats my rather large home.
3) How likely is it that I destroyed my poor baby? Any chance of making me feel better and saying that damage isn't so likely to be from just me? The house was built in 1980, I used the fire in 2017, 2018, and this year. This year has definitely had more wood go through it than any previous year.
Thank you for any help. Bonus thank you's for emathatetic replies that don't make me feel like a fire destroying monster
After many hours this morning I have determined that I have an old Kent TileFire, I think from around 1980. I've had the house for around 4 years, and have used the fire to varying amounts for about three winters. I had the fire checked when I bought the house, someone came out to see if it meets the current standards for my state (Western Australia). This winter I've felt like it has been using a lot more wood.
This morning I noticed that the ceiling on the wood burning area looked really bad. I think I've now worked out that this is the baffle, and I'm pretty sure mine is, well, destroyed. The plate that should have nice holes in has missing pieces at the bottom of the holes, and the plate is dropped. Looking very much like teeth and gaping jaw from a Stephen King novel..
From reading it appears that the baffle in the TF is welded in, and isn't a simple replacement job. I have a sad, sad feeling that my fire may just be at the end of its life, but I wanted to try a last ditch hopeful query.
I've attached two photos, one is from the OP and is what I think I should be seeing,the second is what I am actually seeing. Apologies for photo clarity, the fire is on and quite scalding. I suspect, now that I've actually read up on fires, that I've been overburning, and probably using logs too long for the TF.
1) is my TF cactus and I need to replace it?
2) Any suggestions for a similar fire for replacement? This thing is a beast and without any type of fan or anything it heats my rather large home.
3) How likely is it that I destroyed my poor baby? Any chance of making me feel better and saying that damage isn't so likely to be from just me? The house was built in 1980, I used the fire in 2017, 2018, and this year. This year has definitely had more wood go through it than any previous year.
Thank you for any help. Bonus thank you's for emathatetic replies that don't make me feel like a fire destroying monster
Attachments
Greetings Everyone,
Well, I've read the entire forum twice, circling back multiple times to revisit the spicier sections (Yeah, baby!). That this forum on Kent Stoves began on Christmas Day, 2010, and marched forward with diligence nearly ten years, is prima facie evidence of the magnificent design and construction of the Kent Stove. All hail the Kiwi genius whose design birthed a legend (whoever he/she was).
First of all, my heartfelt thanks to each and every stover who posted pretty much real time narratives and photos of their Kent. This long, retrospective look over the shoulder is SO helpful!
My short history with Kent: Installed a brand new Kent Sherwood in a new active/passive solar home in the DFW Metroplex in 1987. That soldier performed flawlessly until we sold the home 28 years later. (Still going strong, as far as I know.) We burned mainly live oak and red oak, with some pecan and chinese pistache as well. All well seasoned. Nice, clean hardwood. The flue was triple wall, going straight up 37 feet.
What I am about to write is going to bounce the chin of every stove owner in the world off the floor. But, under penalties of perjury, I affirm that every word is true. After moving into the house and using the stove every winter, we did not clean the chimney for 12 years. Right, ten plus two. And when the flue WAS cleaned, the sweep dropped a pitiful cone of dust onto the floor of the stove that surmounted perhaps four inches.
To say that the Kent burns clean, properly operated and fueled, is a world class understatement.
Fast forward to 2020. We built a new active/passive solar home on the western petticoat of the Sangre de Cristos. I call it Solar 2.0 -- all the lessons of the first house were incorporated into the second design. (Kinda like Supermarine's Spitfire Mark II vs. the original aircraft.)
Anyway, my stove guy removed a pretty sweet 1984 Sherwood from a local house when he upgraded their stove. We both thought it would be ideal for the shop. A couple of weeks ago I started to break it down and rebuild it. That's when I spotted the crack in the forward edge of the afterburner plate (see the avatar photo). And, if you look closely, you can see moderate, linear cracks in the plate just forward of the bypass port in the back of the stove.
In future posts I will describe: (1) repairs to the extant cracks, and (2) design solutions to address the inchoate failures (i.e., weakest points) of the Kent design. So, stay tuned....
Your lagniappe for reading to the end of the post: a super mega effective way to clean the afterburner chamber.
1. Seal a shop vac hose into the flue opening with plastic bag, duct tape, cable ties, etc.
2. Inject compressed air (we be loving 120 psi) into MULTIPLE holes in the forward polka dots of the afterburner chamber. Extra love to the holes near the sides -- straight shot to the anteroom.
Pro Tip: An Oneida Dust Deputy inline will scavenge 99 percent of the schmutz before it clogs the shop vac filter.
Peace, ya'll.
Well, I've read the entire forum twice, circling back multiple times to revisit the spicier sections (Yeah, baby!). That this forum on Kent Stoves began on Christmas Day, 2010, and marched forward with diligence nearly ten years, is prima facie evidence of the magnificent design and construction of the Kent Stove. All hail the Kiwi genius whose design birthed a legend (whoever he/she was).
First of all, my heartfelt thanks to each and every stover who posted pretty much real time narratives and photos of their Kent. This long, retrospective look over the shoulder is SO helpful!
My short history with Kent: Installed a brand new Kent Sherwood in a new active/passive solar home in the DFW Metroplex in 1987. That soldier performed flawlessly until we sold the home 28 years later. (Still going strong, as far as I know.) We burned mainly live oak and red oak, with some pecan and chinese pistache as well. All well seasoned. Nice, clean hardwood. The flue was triple wall, going straight up 37 feet.
What I am about to write is going to bounce the chin of every stove owner in the world off the floor. But, under penalties of perjury, I affirm that every word is true. After moving into the house and using the stove every winter, we did not clean the chimney for 12 years. Right, ten plus two. And when the flue WAS cleaned, the sweep dropped a pitiful cone of dust onto the floor of the stove that surmounted perhaps four inches.
To say that the Kent burns clean, properly operated and fueled, is a world class understatement.
Fast forward to 2020. We built a new active/passive solar home on the western petticoat of the Sangre de Cristos. I call it Solar 2.0 -- all the lessons of the first house were incorporated into the second design. (Kinda like Supermarine's Spitfire Mark II vs. the original aircraft.)
Anyway, my stove guy removed a pretty sweet 1984 Sherwood from a local house when he upgraded their stove. We both thought it would be ideal for the shop. A couple of weeks ago I started to break it down and rebuild it. That's when I spotted the crack in the forward edge of the afterburner plate (see the avatar photo). And, if you look closely, you can see moderate, linear cracks in the plate just forward of the bypass port in the back of the stove.
In future posts I will describe: (1) repairs to the extant cracks, and (2) design solutions to address the inchoate failures (i.e., weakest points) of the Kent design. So, stay tuned....
Your lagniappe for reading to the end of the post: a super mega effective way to clean the afterburner chamber.
1. Seal a shop vac hose into the flue opening with plastic bag, duct tape, cable ties, etc.
2. Inject compressed air (we be loving 120 psi) into MULTIPLE holes in the forward polka dots of the afterburner chamber. Extra love to the holes near the sides -- straight shot to the anteroom.
Pro Tip: An Oneida Dust Deputy inline will scavenge 99 percent of the schmutz before it clogs the shop vac filter.
Peace, ya'll.
"At 6pm this evening I relit from coals from a medium-size load started at 8pm last nite. That's 22 hours." (precaud, Jan 19, 2011).
This is rather impressive, but I am not getting the same results. Can someone explain how this is possible?
This is rather impressive, but I am not getting the same results. Can someone explain how this is possible?
I also wanted to thank all the previous members efforts on this thread and keeping the Kents alive. Especially to Precaud for sharing his mods.
I recently purchased a Sherwood from 1984. It needed a little love, and I picked it up for $150. It had a small crack in the heat exchanger near the damper, but definitely worth fixing. (don't judge my welding, as I am an amateur with crappy equipment, but tried to make do) I added a few firebricks to better insulate the firebox. I also tried a makeshift dam like others have used. I simply used some firebricks and scrap steel. It's not what I would consider permanent, but will work for now. I also drilled 7 holes in the airwash plate to allow more direct air into the upper part of the firebox. A little cleaning and paint, and she is ready for my work shop.
Mostly wanted to share that this post and forum are still doing good for the new guys and made me knowledgeable, and comfortable saving an old Kent.
I recently purchased a Sherwood from 1984. It needed a little love, and I picked it up for $150. It had a small crack in the heat exchanger near the damper, but definitely worth fixing. (don't judge my welding, as I am an amateur with crappy equipment, but tried to make do) I added a few firebricks to better insulate the firebox. I also tried a makeshift dam like others have used. I simply used some firebricks and scrap steel. It's not what I would consider permanent, but will work for now. I also drilled 7 holes in the airwash plate to allow more direct air into the upper part of the firebox. A little cleaning and paint, and she is ready for my work shop.
Mostly wanted to share that this post and forum are still doing good for the new guys and made me knowledgeable, and comfortable saving an old Kent.
Last edited:
Hi
So glad to have come across this website.
I‘ve got a Kent, installed in our house in 1980. Has done a Stirling job for the past 42 years but is now looking a little tired. The baffle plate has rusted through and needs some serious attention. I looked into replacing it with a new wood heater but upon reflection and through reading the blogs I’ve decided to fix the problem myself. It’s winter here in the Antipodes and the old thing is still functioning and throwing out prodigious amounts of heat so I’ll keep it going until the weather warms up. I’ll install a new flue and take the heater into the workshop and dismantle as much as I can. Looks like I’ll have to attack it with the gas axe and fabricate and install a new plate. While I’m at it I’ll raise the pedestal so I don’t have to bend down so far to load it with wood. Will keep you posted on progress, any advice will be well received.
Buying new pants with seriously long pockets seems to have helped.
Cheers Nick
So glad to have come across this website.
I‘ve got a Kent, installed in our house in 1980. Has done a Stirling job for the past 42 years but is now looking a little tired. The baffle plate has rusted through and needs some serious attention. I looked into replacing it with a new wood heater but upon reflection and through reading the blogs I’ve decided to fix the problem myself. It’s winter here in the Antipodes and the old thing is still functioning and throwing out prodigious amounts of heat so I’ll keep it going until the weather warms up. I’ll install a new flue and take the heater into the workshop and dismantle as much as I can. Looks like I’ll have to attack it with the gas axe and fabricate and install a new plate. While I’m at it I’ll raise the pedestal so I don’t have to bend down so far to load it with wood. Will keep you posted on progress, any advice will be well received.
Buying new pants with seriously long pockets seems to have helped.
Cheers Nick
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