King 40 Install

[Quirke]

We're adding on to our house and getting a King 40 with ultra base installed in the new space.

Our contractor has experience installing/building stoves and fireplaces, but isn't familiar with Blaze King. I purchased the stove a few months ago, but haven't ordered any pipe as we only had a rough idea of where it was going to be situated.

Now plans are beginning to firm up and more specifics can be made for the installation.

The stove will be kitty cornered in the new space and we've roughly worked out where the pipe will go straight up through the roof - between the first and second joist (first joist is 2ft from the wall). The roof is a 12/6 pitch and metal.


We're looking for it to look similar to this, with cultured stone on the walls, but also a mantle partway up the wall.

While I haven't ordered blowers for the stove (I don't think they'll be necessary) there will be an outlet just in case. I'll also be purchasing the air intake kit with which I'm planning to draw air from down below the floor in the crawlspace. We'll have a heat exchanger working with a forced air furnace and a radon fan down there so I don't believe there should be any pressure issues drawing from there.

What pipe considerations I should be aware of for cleaning and performance? Obviously all insulated pipe to maintain heat and draft. Would a telescoping piece be advisable? Or keep everything as fixed as possible and clean with a sooteater up through the stove.
While the 12/6 roof isn't overly steep, the location near the edge means there will be a good height of exterior pipe that I'd rather not try to get up above every year.

The pipe will be on the windward side of the roof, which faces the lake and sits on top of a slope (30ft above water level). Prevailing winds are from the northwest, and the house/roof faces northest, so some wind will be climbing the up the hill and up the roof, presumably causing some increased pressure. There are some trees and hills to the north and west so we're out of the line of fire for the worst of the wind. Approximately how much added height should be added, or would that be negligible?

Any other things I should be cognizant of?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience!

 

[BKVP]

Use black double wall pipe inside. Yes to telescoping section. Makes it tidy to sweep and everything goes into the bucket.
Use a well ventilated cap. Make certain you use minimum of 15' total.

BKVP

 

[Quirke]

Use black double wall pipe inside. Yes to telescoping section. Makes it tidy to sweep and everything goes into the bucket.
Use a well ventilated cap. Make certain you use minimum of 15' total.

BKVP

Great! That sounds straightforward.

We're at 310m above sea level, just into the recommended 15.5ft minimum, and I'm aiming for a couple extra feet to steer clear of 'just enough'.

Should I be safe from overdraft if I keep it under 20ft?

Thanks!

 

[BKVP]

Great! That sounds straightforward.

We're at 310m above sea level, just into the recommended 15.5ft minimum, and I'm aiming for a couple extra feet to steer clear of 'just enough'.

Should I be safe from overdraft if I keep it under 20ft?

Thanks!

Yes.

BKVP

 

[Dieselhead]

Even with sweeping bottom up pipe removal is needed to clean the cat chamber each time, unless you pull the cat and want to replace the gasket each time. Telescope is the way to go.

 

[Tron]

Even with sweeping bottom up pipe removal is needed to clean the cat chamber each time, unless you pull the cat and want to replace the gasket each time. Telescope is the way to go.

Definitively. One issue with that is that it gets scratched. The sections are usually fastened to each other with sheet metal screws, which bend the outer pipe a bit inward at the screw hole and create a sharp point. So when you slide the telescoping part up, it scratches on the outside of the lower part. I don't really see a way to prevent that.
But that's just an aesthetic issue.

 

[Murray01]

If you don’t have an attic space access for inspection or your chimney is in a corner consider leaving some of the ceiling open for the WETT inspector. He will be happier.

 

[BKVP]

Definitively. One issue with that is that it gets scratched. The sections are usually fastened to each other with sheet metal screws, which bend the outer pipe a bit inward at the screw hole and create a sharp point. So when you slide the telescoping part up, it scratches on the outside of the lower part. I don't really see a way to prevent that.
But that's just an aesthetic issue.

I never put the screws in.

BKVP

 

[Highbeam]

I like those raised heel trusses. It is not fun trying to work in the super tight tapered part of the attic above the walls with standard trusses. More insulation thickness too.

Everybody should have a telescoping section for working on a BK. You will need access from above annually to lube the mechanism and super clean the swept debris.

I have a similar install and dont go up on the roof anymore. The sooteater works so well.

Oh and if you are not required by law to have a bird screen then I would recommend that you skip it. They clog and will be a nightmare to clean if you have such a tall stack above the 6:12 roof.

Lastly, don't forget that you need roof braces at every 5' above the roof deck.

 

[Highbeam]

I never put the screws in.

BKVP

I often wonder if these slip joints are meant to slip with heat. If locking them in with screws creates a stress on the stove or other parts.

For whatever reason, my current slip joint slips smoothly with no scratching and I do use the screws but not too tight since frequent removal might strip them.

 

[Murray01]

Screws must be in to be compliant with Canadian code. See item #29.

 

[Tron]

I never put the screws in.

Yeah, well, the guys that installed our chimney did. But I agree that probably wasn't necessary. But the damage is done.

 

[Dieselhead]

Definitively. One issue with that is that it gets scratched. The sections are usually fastened to each other with sheet metal screws, which bend the outer pipe a bit inward at the screw hole and create a sharp point. So when you slide the telescoping part up, it scratches on the outside of the lower part. I don't really see a way to prevent that.
But that's just an aesthetic issue.

I used to get those scratches. What I did was disassemble the pipe while off for cleaning then used my grinder with a flap wheel to smooth out the inside where the screw penetrated. That removed the burr that was causing the scratches.