Kitchen Queen 480 w/ DS hot air regulator "CREOSOTE BUILD UP"

teekay

New Member
Jul 29, 2020
4
12901
We have used stove 20 times heating nightly. We have a large amount of build up on firebox door and on top of oven and all around oven sides and below of the shiny hard type about 1/4 " thick . Our wood is dry mixed hard and softwood that has been in a barn for 5 years. The ash box if filled w/ fine ash completely burned. We have an infrared temp gauge and heat it up to about 500 degrees and leave air intake wheel open about 1/5 and the main damper closed and bring fire temp down to 300 degrees steady. We are not able to use the DS regulator in the rear as it does not work as video shows so we keep it fully closed and use only air intake from wheel on front door. I received a brochure with new stove that has nothing about DS regulator nor any diagrams. When I called Kitchen Queen they would only email us and gave us worthless guesses about adjusting chain. When we attempt to use DS we get no opening or closing on its own accompanied by popping noises or blowback of small amounts of ash from bottom of firebox. We have an inspected new Selkirk Ultimate Chimney system. We have tried using stove to cook but directions are unclear and opening and closing oven rod does not seem to help with creasote. We have Amish workers who are unable to adjust thermostat or explain build up The local dealer is new and unhelpful. Can we buy an original manual that matches the stove? Any ideas Help?
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
82,934
South Puget Sound, WA
I don't know the stove, is the DS used to thermostatically regulate the intake air? Are you running it with the bypass open (little handle on the right all the way in) until the stovetop is up to temperature? You might give Obidiah's a call. They used to sell and service these stoves.
 
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Hoytman

New Member
Jan 6, 2020
39
Ohio
Once you figure out everything else, then setting the DS regulator is not a big deal at all. Actually, it’s fairly easy once you have the house at the temp you want and the stove.

I have a Hitzer 354 that operates just like a DS M stove. However, I believe @coaly has a similar cook stove and he should be able to help you with setting the thermostat as well.

I assume that stove has manual air controls as well and can be run with out the regulator. If so, setting the regulator will be easy.
First things first though...sounds like you need to get that stove cleaned out because it sounds like you’re describing thick glazing, if I understand you correctly, which can be dangerous. I would add that type of glazing comes from burning wet wood. Is it shiny? Might be good to buy a cheap moisture meter and see know what the moisture content is. I’ve been in some pretty damp old barns.
 
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coaly

Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
3,825
NE PA
When you mention leaving "main damper closed" are you referring to the bypass slide in the back that opens to chimney, or a flue pipe damper?

When cold, my air intake flap is adjusted so the chain is loose until about in center of heat range where it tightens to open flap.

You should not be getting much flow around oven until you close the oven control flap. Do not open the oven circulation unless up to temp.
 

coaly

Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
3,825
NE PA
When you stated the thermostat does not open or close on its own, the initial adustment will show that it opens and closes as you rotate control. Rotate to 2 or 2 1/2. The chain should be getting tight or opening flap. Adjust length of chain so it is open by about an inch at 3. Turning to Low should close the flap. Make sure it closes fully before lighting so the fire can be controlled by closing fully and only getting air from the front.

DS Machine makes the thermostat which is very similar to the Hitzer brand thermostat. They both work with a bimetallic spring. As it heats up, the chain loosens, and lets the flap drop closed. When open, this allows intake air up through the fire, burning rapidly. It should ignite extremely fast, igniting kindling within seconds, and larger wood within minutes. I close mine as soon as the fire is established and use the front manual inlet.

Here is a video that shows adustment. This varies due to chimney, pipe configuration, altitude, fuel and operator.

The only way to get creosote in a stove or above the oven is a very slow, sluggish fire with poor draft. When starting, open bypass into chimney. This will allow all heat directly into chimney, preheating it to start draft. It can be closed a few minutes after lighting. Is the pipe connected to chimney directly with no clean out openings or other inlets into chimney? Make sure clean out for around and under oven is sealed with gasket on cover, so no air leaks into chimney cooling it, and reducing draft.

The thermostat is an accessory that the Kitchen Queen only had when added for Amish families for years. The first stove models did not have any thermostat control and they were not UL tested with any thermostat until recently. In a conversation with Duane years ago, I explained my idea of cutting into the firebox below the grate to add an intake opening made with pipe and a steel flap to cover when closed using a bimetal spring as Hitzer used on their coal stoves. It was readily available from Hitzer, so I ordered one and fashioned my own. This worked well and later we compared ideas and found they were very similar and many Amish women liked the quicker response and easier lighting with under / through the grate intake air. My design was also for making my own coal grate with under grate air. Until then they were only used with wood. Here is a thread that pictures the thermostat I fabricated which became the tested style you have now. (Post #24)
 
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teekay

New Member
Jul 29, 2020
4
12901
I don't know the stove, is the DS used to thermostatically regulate the intake air? Are you running it with the bypass open (little handle on the right all the way in) until the stovetop is up to temperature? You might give Obidiah's a call. They used to sell and service these stoves.
thanks for info
 
Last edited by a moderator:

teekay

New Member
Jul 29, 2020
4
12901
When you mention leaving "main damper closed" are you referring to the bypass slide in the back that opens to chimney, or a flue pipe damper?

When cold, my air intake flap is adjusted so the chain is loose until about in center of heat range where it tightens to open flap.

You should not be getting much flow around oven until you close the oven control flap. Do not open the oven circulation unless up to temp.
Thanks for your help
 

teekay

New Member
Jul 29, 2020
4
12901
When you stated the thermostat does not open or close on its own, the initial adustment will show that it opens and closes as you rotate control. Rotate to 2 or 2 1/2. The chain should be getting tight or opening flap. Adjust length of chain so it is open by about an inch at 3. Turning to Low should close the flap. Make sure it closes fully before lighting so the fire can be controlled by closing fully and only getting air from the front.

DS Machine makes the thermostat which is very similar to the Hitzer brand thermostat. They both work with a bimetallic spring. As it heats up, the chain loosens, and lets the flap drop closed. When open, this allows intake air up through the fire, burning rapidly. It should ignite extremely fast, igniting kindling within seconds, and larger wood within minutes. I close mine as soon as the fire is established and use the front manual inlet.

Here is a video that shows adustment. This varies due to chimney, pipe configuration, altitude, fuel and operator.

The only way to get creosote in a stove or above the oven is a very slow, sluggish fire with poor draft. When starting, open bypass into chimney. This will allow all heat directly into chimney, preheating it to start draft. It can be closed a few minutes after lighting. Is the pipe connected to chimney directly with no clean out openings or other inlets into chimney? Make sure clean out for around and under oven is sealed with gasket on cover, so no air leaks into chimney cooling it, and reducing draft.

The thermostat is an accessory that the Kitchen Queen only had when added for Amish families for years. The first stove models did not have any thermostat control and they were not UL tested with any thermostat until recently. In a conversation with Duane years ago, I explained my idea of cutting into the firebox below the grate to add an intake opening made with pipe and a steel flap to cover when closed using a bimetal spring as Hitzer used on their coal stoves. It was readily available from Hitzer, so I ordered one and fashioned my own. This worked well and later we compared ideas and found they were very similar and many Amish women liked the quicker response and easier lighting with under / through the grate intake air. My design was also for making my own coal grate with under grate air. Until then they were only used with wood. Here is a thread that pictures the thermostat I fabricated which became the tested style you have now. (Post #24)
When you stated the thermostat does not open or close on its own, the initial adustment will show that it opens and closes as you rotate control. Rotate to 2 or 2 1/2. The chain should be getting tight or opening flap. Adjust length of chain so it is open by about an inch at 3. Turning to Low should close the flap. Make sure it closes fully before lighting so the fire can be controlled by closing fully and only getting air from the front.

DS Machine makes the thermostat which is very similar to the Hitzer brand thermostat. They both work with a bimetallic spring. As it heats up, the chain loosens, and lets the flap drop closed. When open, this allows intake air up through the fire, burning rapidly. It should ignite extremely fast, igniting kindling within seconds, and larger wood within minutes. I close mine as soon as the fire is established and use the front manual inlet.

Here is a video that shows adustment. This varies due to chimney, pipe configuration, altitude, fuel and operator.

The only way to get creosote in a stove or above the oven is a very slow, sluggish fire with poor draft. When starting, open bypass into chimney. This will allow all heat directly into chimney, preheating it to start draft. It can be closed a few minutes after lighting. Is the pipe connected to chimney directly with no clean out openings or other inlets into chimney? Make sure clean out for around and under oven is sealed with gasket on cover, so no air leaks into chimney cooling it, and reducing draft.

The thermostat is an accessory that the Kitchen Queen only had when added for Amish families for years. The first stove models did not have any thermostat control and they were not UL tested with any thermostat until recently. In a conversation with Duane years ago, I explained my idea of cutting into the firebox below the grate to add an intake opening made with pipe and a steel flap to cover when closed using a bimetal spring as Hitzer used on their coal stoves. It was readily available from Hitzer, so I ordered one and fashioned my own. This worked well and later we compared ideas and found they were very similar and many Amish women liked the quicker response and easier lighting with under / through the grate intake air. My design was also for making my own coal grate with under grate air. Until then they were only used with wood. Here is a thread that pictures the thermostat I fabricated which became the tested style you have now. (Post #24)
THankyou for the time and your help
 
We have used stove 20 times heating nightly. We have a large amount of build up on firebox door and on top of oven and all around oven sides and below of the shiny hard type about 1/4 " thick . Our wood is dry mixed hard and softwood that has been in a barn for 5 years. The ash box if filled w/ fine ash completely burned. We have an infrared temp gauge and heat it up to about 500 degrees and leave air intake wheel open about 1/5 and the main damper closed and bring fire temp down to 300 degrees steady. We are not able to use the DS regulator in the rear as it does not work as video shows so we keep it fully closed and use only air intake from wheel on front door. I received a brochure with new stove that has nothing about DS regulator nor any diagrams. When I called Kitchen Queen they would only email us and gave us worthless guesses about adjusting chain. When we attempt to use DS we get no opening or closing on its own accompanied by popping noises or blowback of small amounts of ash from bottom of firebox. We have an inspected new Selkirk Ultimate Chimney system. We have tried using stove to cook but directions are unclear and opening and closing oven rod does not seem to help with creasote. We have Amish workers who are unable to adjust thermostat or explain build up The local dealer is new and unhelpful. Can we buy an original manual that matches the stove? Any ideas Help?
You need to get that stove cleaned out because it sounds like you’re describing thick glazing, if I understand you correctly, which can be dangerous.