Using a Logwood 2469e in a camper. Is a small stove reasonable for long burns in winter nights?

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I use a US Stove Logwood 2469e in a large camper. Now trust me, I know this is wayyy outside of specs and safety standards. The stove is rated for 1600 sq ft, while my space is somewhere around 400. In the owners manual the number 2 safety rule is 'Not for use in mobile homes'. However, hear me out. I got this stove from a family member last winter when a severe cold snap swept the southeast. I had some experience with wood stoves growing up in my dad's shop and small wood stoves in canvas tents while hunting. My camper is a big 5th wheel with a large open living room/ kitchen. I set up the stove towards the back of the camper about 3 feet away from the walls. Took a window panel out and cut a piece of tin to size with a hole for the pipes. About 12 feet of pipe that ends above the top of my camper. I burned this stove all last winter with very minimal problems. Over a few months it only overheated on me twice where it got up to 80 degrees in here. I could throw 3 pieces of wood in before bed and wake up 5 hours in to reload. It was a very consistent stove for me. After season I took the stove out of the camper and stored it in the barn for the warm season.​

A couple weeks ago I moved it back in to start burning again and it overheated on me after the first load had reached mostly coals. Afterwards I took the stove apart and did a deep clean of the stove and the chimney pipes. Come to find out the door did not have a rope gasket at all, although it appears to have never had one. I installed a new gasket and put the stove back in and fired it up. It burned perfectly just like I remembered how it performed all last season. I'm interested in a smaller stove, but I need one that will burn slow with good control. Come to find out this 2469e, as far as I can tell, is 'single burn rate'. The only dampener is the one in the flue, and I don't think there's a way to restrict air intake. We use an old wood stove in our hunting cabin with amazing control over airflow on both ends. Chain dampener on bottom and a flue dampener. This is my main problem with this stove. I can get it burning low and slow for 4-7 hours, but I have to be careful with it and do it just right. Maybe this is all a skill issue too (besides my critical mismatch in equipment to setting).​

Anyone have a recommendation on operation or a smaller stove with better control or is it the case that I don't need anything but a flue damper if the stove was matched to my square footage? Thanks everyone​

 
Almost anything would be an improvement for clearances and control and if the stove is mobile approved, it will have bolt-down legs. The new Jotul F602v3 might work. Also, look at the Drolet Spark and Nano stoves.
 
And for your safety, get a stove that allows to connect an outside air kit (oak), aka fresh air supply.

And have working CO and smoke detectors.
 
Almost anything would be an improvement for clearances and control and if the stove is mobile approved, it will have bolt-down legs. The new Jotul F602v3 might work. Also, look at the Drolet Spark and Nano stoves.
Thank you. I looked at the Jotul stove, I love how it looks and has an acceptable wood length for the stockpile of firewood I have. I'm trying to decide whether it makes sense to spend the money on it because I'm hoping to build and move in to a cabin in a year or two's time. The Logwood 2469e would actually be a perfect stove to heat that cabin with no issues. However, if I run into any more issues with this stove this season I may buy the Jotul. It could be a good second stove for the barn in the winter anyway once I move in to the cabin.
And for your safety, get a stove that allows to connect an outside air kit (oak), aka fresh air supply.

And have working CO and smoke detectors.
Do I need to worry about fresh air supply when campers are famous for having a ton of seams and small gaps in the slides and general construction? I have a working CO but a while ago I turned the smoke detector off because it goes off every time I cook stuff like bacon or reload the stove. I know that's bad and there's a way to deal with that I'm sure.
Take a look at the Woodstock Survival stove
Neat stove, looks sort of peculiar though.
 
Mobile homes are more.tight than fixed (stick built) homes.
That's the reason mobile homes need an oak.
I thought campers are similarly build.

In any case,. it's safer with oak.
 
The smoke rollout is due to the short chimney. Modern stoves need are tested with 15-16' flue systems and that is often the minimum. It's kind of pointless to put in a good new stove with secondary combustion if draft is inadequate. A simpler, tiny home stove, like a Dwarf or Cubic Grizzly will work better. Consider burning highly compressed sawdust logs or bricks instead of wood for a cleaner burn. Northern Idaho Energy Logs, Homefire Press-Logs, Bio-Bricks, Redstones, etc. are examples. Do not burn Duraflame logs.

 
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Pellet stoves require power which can deplete the house power quickly if one is camping off grid.
 
Yes, if the camper is well set up for solar with adequate storage, that might work. Though if most camping is done in the woods or in winter, that may be challenging. Pellet stoves are convenient as long as one can tote along several 40# bags of fuel. The other downside is that most are noisy. That would bother me in a small space.
 
I like the Castle Serenity better than the Cleveland Ironworks. The video looks like a lived-in and perhaps larger RV in a fixed location with shore power. In that case, yes, it can be a good solution.
 
The Logwood 2469e would actually be a perfect stove to heat that cabin with no issues.
It really is never a perfect stove for any situation I'm sorry
 
It really is never a perfect stove for any situation I'm sorry
I've come to learn this after having more experience with other stoves in the past year. The single burn rate is a bother. Last year it seemed perfect for me because I only started burning it once it was regularly below 15-20 degrees F outside. This year using it heading into the cold season has shown me how it is lacking and not a great fit or my living situation. I currently use an electric space heater when it is 30-50 degrees out, along with the propane air heater built in to the camper to keep it from dipping below a certain temperature, usually 63. I try to avoid the propane as much as possible obviously because it is expensive. When it is 15 or below this stove makes this place comfortable, but it is stressful to try to get it to perform what I need when it is 20-30 degrees out, it will run me out of the camper if I'm not careful.
The smoke rollout is due to the short chimney. Modern stoves need are tested with 15-16' flue systems and that is often the minimum. It's kind of pointless to put in a good new stove with secondary combustion if draft is inadequate. A simpler, tiny home stove, like a Dwarf or Cubic Grizzly will work better. Consider burning highly compressed sawdust logs or bricks instead of wood for a cleaner burn. Northern Idaho Energy Logs, Homefire Press-Logs, Bio-Bricks, Redstones, etc. are examples. Do not burn Duraflame logs.

I meant 12 feet of rise but the stove is 16 feet travel total, there may still be an issue with it though because it comes out of the stove at a 90 going out the camper window for 6 feet and then 90s up to another 9 feet. I understand you are supposed to have it come out vertically first and then travel horizontal?
 
If the 6' section is horizontal, that is killing draft.

How is this camper used? Is it often mobile or fixed semi-permanently in one location? Does it have grid power? If so, mellow's suggestion of a small pellet stove is worth considering. The Castle Serenity would provide thermostatic heating for a greater comfort range.
 
If the 6' section is horizontal, that is killing draft.

How is this camper used? Is it often mobile or fixed semi-permanently in one location? Does it have grid power? If so, mellow's suggestion of a small pellet stove is worth considering. The Castle Serenity would provide thermostatic heating for a greater comfort range.
I'm installing a different stove tomorrow that will have a foot of rise and then travel out the window horizontally. It is a Vermont Castings Intrepid Flexburn, catalytic stove with lots of control over burn rate. I don't have much of a choice because this is the only window which is removable in this way. This stove is approved for mobile homes and RVs anyway. Family member letting me try it out.
I live in this camper full time until I finish building my house. Have lived in it for 3 years now. It does have grid power. I will look into pellet stoves too.
 
That control exists in a range of decreasing the draft that is provided by the chimney.
If the chimney doesn't provide enough draft (suction), then the control range will be small, and will be below what makes the stove work well.
 
I'm installing a different stove tomorrow that will have a foot of rise and then travel out the window horizontally. It is a Vermont Castings Intrepid Flexburn, catalytic stove with lots of control over burn rate. I don't have much of a choice because this is the only window which is removable in this way. This stove is approved for mobile homes and RVs anyway. Family member letting me try it out.
I live in this camper full time until I finish building my house. Have lived in it for 3 years now. It does have grid power. I will look into pellet stoves too.
The Intrepid is not going to like the 6' horizontal run. It needs good draft. Can the horizontal pipe run be reduced to 2'?
 
The VC neverburns are a good size stove, it would be worth your time to do a search on here about them and get acquainted with that stoves nuances. Not sure how well that top load will work with such low draft.

 
The VC neverburns are a good size stove, it would be worth your time to do a search on here about them and get acquainted with that stoves nuances. Not sure how well that top load will work with such low draft.

The catalytic version is better behaved than the NC versions, but yes, it's really not going to like the long horizontal run of chimney.
 
The Intrepid is not going to like the 6' horizontal run. It needs good draft. Can the horizontal pipe run be reduced to 2'?
The situation I'm in is the only place for the stove is in the open living room of the camper. It needs to be at least 2-3 feet away from the walls for safety and needs to not hug the exterior of the camper going vertical obviously. The window it is piping out of is the only one that is removable to replace with a sheet of tin. I think I may be able to make an 18 inch vertical pipe at the most coming out of the stove and then 90 out, and I may be able to reduce that horizontal to 4 feet maybe? Unless there's another way to install this stove very close to the wall in this camper. Maybe I could do a 45 degree until exit then vertical instead? By the way, the clutter around the stove will not remain when I prepare to burn it. As you can see, my last stove wasn't exiting as a flat horizontal, it climbs at a slight angle but it's probably not much of a difference.

[Hearth.com] Using a Logwood 2469e in a camper. Is a small stove reasonable for long burns in winter nights?
 
Does this stove also have such large clearances? (I think not?)

Also, class A pipe outside generally needs 2" from combustibles. Not that far. Seems you can decrease the horizontal run by quite a bit
 
Does this stove also have such large clearances? (I think not?)

Also, class A pipe outside generally needs 2" from combustibles. Not that far. Seems you can decrease the horizontal run by quite a bit
I'm not exactly sure about the clearances, I need to read the manual online. Was just a guess and my paranoia.
Edit: Manual says 12 inches in the rear for single wall pipe chimney, if I'm reading this right.
 
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The rear clearance is 14", side clearance is 15". Coming off the flue collar with an elbow and then a long horizontal is a real draft killer.

Get rid of the key damper, you won't need it now and it restricts draft a bit even when open. Come off of the stove flue collar with a 45º elbow, a short straight section, and the another 45º elbow. If you can do this with double-wall stove pipe it will be much safer. I'd also remove the black curtain on the back wall and the red box on the floor.