We have been talking new tractor. I want to stay away from Tier 4 equipment, so the question becomes whether to buy an older 30+ horsepower or a new sub 30 horse tractor. If you have a Kubota, please fill me in on how it works for you. I.E., "I have a 35 horse, but for the most part 26 horse would work." Or on the other hand, "I have a 25 horse and there is never enough power." Thanks!
Kubota
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AlbergSteve
Minister of Fire
Depends on what you need to do with it. We have the BX23s with the backhoe and skid steer loader. The skid steer loader reduces lifting capacity about 15% when compared to a pin-on loader. We needed a machine to fit our budget and our property. It's two acres that's going to be pretty densely planted so a big machine would not have worked. If you can afford to go to the B01 series, you get the same 24HP engine but the lifting and break out capacities are about 50-60% higher. There have only been a couple of times when I had wished I had a slightly more powerful machine.
![[Hearth.com] Kubota](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/243/243378-a6b5475eeaf96defb8833515c9dd3812.jpg?hash=KMqVDx2Ge6 "[Hearth.com] Kubota")
We have just shy of 40 acres. It is being reforested, so only an acre or so will be for house and shop. I already have an older Ford with a FEL. I also have a mini ex.
The Ford gets used 2 or 3 times a year for an hour or so when I am clearing snow.
The Kubota is for the wife's use. She gardens, has critters etc. and is coming up on retirement. I estimate the Kubota would not be run more than once a week in good weather, and not for more than a hour at most. Different dealers have told me that the short infrequent run time would be problematic with Tier 4.
I most likely would not purchase another tractor were it not for her interest in one, but I also do not want to buy too small and regret it when the Ford finally dies.
I was unaware that the quick attatch skid steer style FEL reduced capacity.
The Ford gets used 2 or 3 times a year for an hour or so when I am clearing snow.
The Kubota is for the wife's use. She gardens, has critters etc. and is coming up on retirement. I estimate the Kubota would not be run more than once a week in good weather, and not for more than a hour at most. Different dealers have told me that the short infrequent run time would be problematic with Tier 4.
I most likely would not purchase another tractor were it not for her interest in one, but I also do not want to buy too small and regret it when the Ford finally dies.
I was unaware that the quick attatch skid steer style FEL reduced capacity.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
I have a kubuta.. 40hp tier 4.. not sure why you would avoid one.. there is nothing that i have seen that would turn me away. My tractor is 4 years old and i havent had a problem with it.. it will remind you to do a regen on it of you can do it yourself.. there are no additives. You can still work the machine while your in regen so not exactly sure why you would back out of a perfectly good large machine. The more hp.. the better..
Over priced YES over rated NO I have a 35 year old B series that runs like new
and works as hard now as it did 35 years ago Can Not beat there Quality
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
You wouldn't say that if you actually owned one and made a living using them..
In this world.. you get what you pay for.. I'll pay mor to have equipment on the job and not in the shop.. jusy saying...
We have two in our rental fleet, new last year, both were back to the dealer for issues within a month of going into service. Older BX (3 yrs old) series had twisted & bent loader arms within 6 months of going into service.
SO, yes I will say overrated.
AlbergSteve
Minister of Fire
I agree, rental is tough on equipment, but to have leaks and shift levers that don't work on equipment 3 weeks old is not abuse.
A 36" gas powered floor saw falling off of a roof - ABUSE (and stupidity), Yes we had one.
A 36" gas powered floor saw falling off of a roof - ABUSE (and stupidity), Yes we had one.
I have a Kubota B2650 Loader/Backhoe. Just under 2 years old. Great machine. No issues what so ever. Uses are endless. Do all my firewood processing/moving with it. Pallet forks are a must for firewood. Pretty strong machine for its size. Can handle around 1000 lb lift.
I got chose it for the same reason, I didn't want the emissions stuff. I would give a very strong look at the L2501. Its a much larger framed and heavier machine.
There is no denying that Kubota is one of the best in the compact tractor world. You get what you pay for.
![[Hearth.com] Kubota](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/wood-splitting-2-webp.243379/ "[Hearth.com] Kubota")
I got chose it for the same reason, I didn't want the emissions stuff. I would give a very strong look at the L2501. Its a much larger framed and heavier machine.
There is no denying that Kubota is one of the best in the compact tractor world. You get what you pay for.
Kubota makes a great machine. When I was tractor shopping last year I found that stripped down ( no cruise control, 3 point linkage still had turnbuckles, etc ) Kubota's and Deere's were about the same price as a top of the line Yanmar or Kioti. I bought a Yanmar YT347 and it has been a great machine so far. My old JD 770 was built by Yanmar and I had zero issues with it. It had around 1500 hours on it when I sold it. Yanmar and Kioti both make a 25HP tractor that doesn't have the Tier 4 emissions.
I bought a 25hp machine a few years back, thinking that i would skate by the emissions aspect and have a new "old school" machine, well I did, but 25hp was way to small for my application, yes it had a fel and rear hoe, but both were kind of silly small and it was frustrating just to load logs into the bucket, also way limited on attachments. After a year with that machine I was about to sell it on consignment (thank you to my dealer for excellent service) and I bought the largest machine that would fit into my garage. Since owning both sizes I have to say, go as big as you can, its worth it in the long run.
A good poster here (@Ashful ) once said something along the lines of to be successful with a compact tractor, you need to be at a minimum of 30HP, and he's right about that, no matter what brand.
A good poster here (@Ashful ) once said something along the lines of to be successful with a compact tractor, you need to be at a minimum of 30HP, and he's right about that, no matter what brand.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
To say there overrated and over priced is wrong.. you can't really judge a pice of equipment that is in rental service.. half the people going in there renting somthing have no idea on how to operate whats being rented.. 2nd. A leak and a shift lever that doesnt work is in no way a full reflection of every machine that they've made or the reputation of the company.. did you ever notice that if you purchase a high end sports car for 300 to 500k the dealer that sells the car has a service department the car comes with a warrenty.. and even though the car is worth as much as a house theres still a problem here or there with some of the cars made..
You have people beating the crap out of your equipment. .. it is what it is...and its not kubuts fault
Unfortunately you can and should judge equipment by the rental service, if it holds up in rental conditions 99% of home owners will never have a problem. If I gave you a machine and told you to take it and MAKE the hydraulic cylinder seals leak how would you do it? As much as I hate to say it we have had fewer problems with the JD compact tractors (I am not a big JD fan either). Many manufacturers do make the claim "rental tough".
Buy what you feel comfortable buying, but look around, try a few (if a dealer won't give you a demo. there's a problem) , ask questions from other owners BEFORE you buy. Remember that dealer support should play a big role also.
I've been turning wrenches for over 40 years and I know what I have seen and what I would spend my money on.
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I always advise to think backwards to find your tractor:
1. Determine what tasks you need/want to do accomplish
2. Learn what type and size of implements will best accomplish your task
3. Ensure tractor will meet minimum requirements for operating the implements
Example:
If the implement you need to run requires a minimum 35 PTO hp (different from engine hp), then make sure your tractor meets/exceeds that requirement.
1. Determine what tasks you need/want to do accomplish
2. Learn what type and size of implements will best accomplish your task
3. Ensure tractor will meet minimum requirements for operating the implements
Example:
If the implement you need to run requires a minimum 35 PTO hp (different from engine hp), then make sure your tractor meets/exceeds that requirement.
I am working between the 1880 and the 2380. I mow about an acre and will be doing a lot of work in the woods on hills moving wood, brush hogging, etc. I will only be buying the 54" deck and I don't want the Quick attach bucket because it has less lift capacity (I also may never take it off). The only reason I would considering going up to the 2380 is if the 1880 struggles with a brush hog. It will mostly be saplings and brush, so no thick grass and because of the hills, I will be going slow no matter the tractor size. Will the 1880 handle a 4' brush hog fine?
The rule of thumb I've always heard is 5PTO HP per foot of bush hog width.
As a diesel mechanic who deals with the headaches of modern emissions equipment on a daily basis. There is no way I would ever pruchase anything modern diesel with DPF, EGR, SCR,DEF or any other emissisions system on it. It all works fine untill it don't then you need special software and equipment to diagnose it. A simple emissions system fault will derate or completly shut down the machine. All it takes is one wire or sensor to get out of whack and your machine is useless untill somene can hook a computer to it.
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That's fighting a losing battle then, I guess that's how life is though, while I haven't had any issues what so ever in my 160 hrs of use, I can understand where your coming from, perhaps in the near future someone smarter then me will come out with a delete kit.
I also had emissions issues with my 2011 gmc 2500 Duramax, so I am aware that yes one issue can mess up the whole system (in that case it was nearly 85,000 miles of rolling with a bad heater pack in the def tank) that truck was recently turned in and upgraded to a 2019 2500 Duramax. Back to the tractor now, I don't like buying used equipment in this department, to much can be wrong (bent arms, bad hydro seals, inheriting an undisclosed problem) so going new was my only option, and I did the 25hp route, but it was to small for my firewood plan / other outdoor things, moved to the 40hp and haven't looked back, absolutely love it and again so far the regen has worked perfectly as designed.
I can remember when a heater or radio was an option in a vehicle. I believe power door locks, seats etc. to be designed by the devil. I can remember pulling the lever and having an arm come up on the back of the cab to indicate which direction you were turning, turn signals being a do it yourself at home project, and power steering being a sissy option. I come by my fear of Tier 4 through years of wondering why I now have to have more than one tail light.
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