Kuma Sequoia and SS liner general questions

[SequoiaFarm]

Good afternoon! Longtime observer first time poster here. I am in the process of a total renovation on a farmhouse built in 1875. The walls are double brick with a two inch air gap between each wall. I will be framing in all new walls on the interior leaving another one inch air gap between the studs and the interior brick. These walls will all be insulated. The house is two stories in the shape of a T with a central staircase. I have two chimneys that are masonry from basement to the roof. Both are in good structural shape and centrally located at each end of the house. The house not including the basement is 3,000sqft.

Now for a few pointers I guess. I will be installing my Sequoia in the next few weeks (I’ve had it since September but we do not live in it so heat is purely for working). The inside of chimney just barely isn’t large enough for the 8” liner with the insulation. I have it cleared by Kuma to use an oval liner. This will be a full 25’ length to get down to the first floor. There I will have to put a new hole to run a black double wall masonry adapter from Rockford chimney supply. From there I will need some length of pipe to get to the 90 which will then run down 4’ to a damper and then stove. I have talked with Rockford but they were not the most help.

My question is how should I figure out that small length of pipe between the masonry adapter and the 90? Do I need to insulate around the adapter even though it passes through a full masonry chimney?

Here’s the stove, house, and my hearth pad I’m building.

 

[John B]

Firstly, you're going to love the Sequoia, its a great stove and a pleasure to operate. If you didn't get the blower you may want to consider it. Good idea having a damper, as this stove really needs one with a tall chimney.

I am not sure if you have to insulate the adapter so I will defer to experts but I dont think you do as long as there are no combustibles nearby. For figuring out the the pipe, do yourself a favor and get a slip joint. That way you can get the exact length needed without having to go crazy measuring and potentially making a mistake. On my recent install I purchased the 22ga Selkirk pipe from northlineexpress which had a slip joint, making the install a breeze. I like this pipe more than the 24ga Duravent pipe thats also for sale because Duravent made the ends a non standard size meaning that they dont fit directly into the stove outlet without an adapter.

 

[SequoiaFarm]

I was thinking about going that route, I'm glad to hear they work. I was worried about leaking around the joints. Unfortunately Rockford's smallest adjustable pipe goes down to 18". I'm guessing it's going to be closer to 12", I will have to check and see if northline has them that go down that far.

 

[John B]

I used the 18" slip joint. I figured if I needed it shorter I could carefully cut the male end and debur it but it ended up being perfect. Its really just a snug fit and I dont think cutting it would make a difference as long as you leave at least a few inches of overlap. I have no leakage at all in the joint.

 

[HomeinPA]

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Good afternoon! Longtime observer first time poster here. I am in the process of a total renovation on a farmhouse built in 1875. The walls are double brick with a two inch air gap between each wall. I will be framing in all new walls on the interior leaving another one inch air gap between the studs and the interior brick. These walls will all be insulated. The house is two stories in the shape of a T with a central staircase. I have two chimneys that are masonry from basement to the roof. Both are in good structural shape and centrally located at each end of the house. The house not including the basement is 3,000sqft.

Now for a few pointers I guess. I will be installing my Sequoia in the next few weeks (I’ve had it since September but we do not live in it so heat is purely for working). The inside of chimney just barely isn’t large enough for the 8” liner with the insulation. I have it cleared by Kuma to use an oval liner. This will be a full 25’ length to get down to the first floor. There I will have to put a new whole to run a black double wall masonry adapter from Rockford chimney supply. From there I will need some length of pipe to get to the 90 which will then run down 4’ to a damper and then stove. I have talked with Rockford but they were not the most help.


My question is how should I figure out that small length of pipe between the masonry adapter and the 90? Do I need to insulate around the adapter even though it passes through a full masonry chimney?

Here’s the stove, house, and my hearth pad I’m building.

I'm not sure I'm picturing this correctly or not but....first question - What size is the interior of your chimney? Is it straight or does it take a bend somewhere?

If you're running an insulated oval liner you need to have the specific T that is made for that oval. It will have a removable stainless take-off that will come through the thimble into the room at least 2 inches. (You may need to add a piece of rigid stainless to make the correct length.) Is that horizontal pipe the one you're asking about?? If it's going through a masonry thimble that has 12" of masonry on all sides of the terracotta crock then you could get away without insulating. I always take the crock out and wrap it with a minimum 1/2" blanket regardless.

off subject.....it kinda cracks me up that they make a big deal about having the liner insulated when there is no way in hell to wrap the base of the T and T-cap and that's about the hottest place on the liner.

 

[begreen]

Is that Wonderboard Lite? If so, it shouldn't be used for a hearth. It has styrofoam beads in it.

WonderBoard® Lite panels are composed of stable Portland cement, EPS beads, aggregates and reinforcement.
https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-266.pdf

 

[SequoiaFarm]

"HomeinPA, the chimney only has a single terra-cotta liner at the very top to hold the current rain cap. Its a straight chimney from basement to roof and the liner I’m ordering comes with everything that’s needed to transition to 8” round after the T. I’m wondering about the horizontal piece for between thethimble and the 90.

 

[SequoiaFarm]

begreen, it is the lite version. My stove only requires spark protection and assumed this would work. What would happen if I do use it? Should I worry about it being fire hazard or degradation?

 

[begreen]

For ember protection only, with a grouted tile hearth you are covered. The tile is the protection. The hearth should never be used for a stove that needs higher protection.

 

[Rockey]

Congrats on the Sequoia, your gonna love it. Cant help you much install questions, Im not even qualified to do a slammer but there are good guys here to help you. I can tell you that the crate makes a great break in fire and there really isnt much stink from the paint curing, at least nothing like what our NC-30 was like. I really like that picture of your house. Its got a lot of character. hopefully the Sequoia fits the bill for you.

 

[HomeinPA]

"HomeinPA, the chimney only has a single terra-cotta liner at the very top to hold the current rain cap. Its a straight chimney from basement to roof and the liner I’m ordering comes with everything that’s needed to transition to 8” round after the T. I’m wondering about the horizontal piece for between thethimble and the 90.

Any pipe exposed in the room - the black stovepipe, does not have to be wrapped. I insulate the thimble as I mentioned and I slide it back against the face of the T and cut it off flush with the the crock.

 

[SequoiaFarm]

Rockey, the house has been in my family 80 of the 144 years since it was built. I’m trying to make it a high performance house inside an old shell. The Sequoia seems to fit in well to that plan.