Kuma Sequoia install

[Ramz28]

Hey every1. I am looking at buying a kuma seqoia. I have the clearence in the fireplace but im not sure if it is safe. There was a 3inch concrete/maybe fire cement wall. I have to knock that down as it enclosed the space too much for any stove.. i was left with a solid brick walls on the side and a cinder block wall as the back. The block wall has studs and sheetrock on the other side.. im waiting for the building inspector to come.

The picture is what is left after i removed the cement. The black outline is the old fireplace. Everything behind that was insulation and concrete. Its can fit the kuma now. Would that be safe? Thanks

 

[begreen]

It looks like all the firebrick was removed. We can't tell if this is safe by looking at a picture. It would be better to get a certified sweep or installer to investigate.

www.csia.org
(broken link removed to http://www.nficertified.org/pages_consumers/consumers-4.html)

 

[Ramz28]

The only actual brick was on the floor. Previous owners did have work done to the fireplace as it has a liner and a stainless steel box already in there. Thanks

 

[Grisu]

I hope that was not a heatform that was pulled out. That could compromise the stability of the fireplace. High time for a pro to check it out.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/heatform/

 

[Ramz28]

Def not a heatform. The base of the fireplace was some sort of cement and insualtion between that and the bricks. The floor is firebricks. The flue is a 8in liner and some sort of stainless duct. Thats it there. I spoke with my towns building inspector, hes supposed to come by this weekend. Stove is ordered so its going in some how lol.. i will contact 1 of the stove installers near by and see what they can tell me..thanks

 

[Ramz28]

Heres the update... i had a pro installer come over. He went through everything, the previous fireplace was a high efficiency bell fireplace. It was installed wrong and was good that i broke it out. The liner is too thin and there was a chimney fire before. Also they never installed a damper. He explained is dont need anything done to the hearth or surrounding walls. I need a new liner 30' 304 stainless and new caps for the top. The company wants $3100 for the liner, liner blanket, cap and install.

 

[aansorge]

Or buy some beer, gather a few friends, and do it yourself...

(broken link removed to http://syracuse.craigslist.org/for/5186395287.html)

 

[Swedishchef]

$3100 sounds a little steep to me...maybe get a few more quotes?

A

 

[Nick Mystic]

Unless there is something very unusual and challenging in the installation that you haven't mentioned, then $3100 sounds outrageous for what you described. Now if they are going to do masonry work relining the inside of your firebox or something like that then the price might be more reasonable.

 

[Ramz28]

Nope nothing extra or weird. Its already lined with an 8" liner, so they dont need to break anything just slide it out and slide in the new 1. And the fireplace is already empty so slide in the stove connect pipe and put a cap up top.. when i read his breakdown of work i was shocked at the price. I spoke to a few other places. 800 seems to be avg and another 800 for the liner. 8" x 30'.. thanks ill be doing the install myself.

 

[Fastdonzi]

Do it your self, I put in 25' of 8" pipe with two friends. I pulled mine up from the bottom. (My roof is 12/12 pitch) easier to stand on the chimney top and pull it up than wrestle the 25' anaconda while on that roof....

 

[Ramz28]

Yea, im doing this with my wife. My pop might be around to help. I plan to put a winch on the chimney and pull it up as she feeds its through the bottom..

 

[bholler]

It sounds pretty straight forward. For your sake i hope they didn't see a problem and that is why they jacked the price up. Either way is definitely a possibility i hope it works out well for you

 

[begreen]

Be sure the chimney is completely cleaned (including the smoke shelf) before putting in the liner.

 

[aansorge]

I fed mine down the chimney as I already had the chimney support in. I pieced several sections together and with the help of a strong cousin and some motorcycle tie-downs we lowered and added extra sections as we progressed. It really didn't take long but it did involve the expenditure of ATP and sweat.

 

[Ramz28]

Completed the install finally. Tried to pull the liner up. Thats was almost impossible. Dragged 30ft to the roof and shoved it down, went easy. Needed 26ft had to buy 30ft. Put the cap on and set it. PITA to move the stove into place and connected.. 1 thing im not sure about is the connection to the stove. The liner has a stove adapter and it just slides in? No screws or glue or something to seal it there?

 

[bholler]

The liner has a stove adapter and it just slides in? No screws or glue or something to seal it there?

It absolutely needs to be attached somehow it is very unsafe if it is not.

 

[begreen]

Typically the stove adapter attaches to the stove with screws thru the flue collar or sometimes with little L brackets. What does Kuma say?

 

[BrotherBart]

Put screws in it. Get one "woofing" where you hear the liner crinkle all the way up and you will thank, insert your deity of choice, that the sucker was locked into the top of that stove.

 

[kuma.jason]

Stove should have a removable flue collar that attached to your liner and then bolts back into the stove. If this stove is new-old-stock, then it may not have that collar and would need the L-Brackets as mentioned by Begreen.

Call me tomorrow if you need additional help

888-714-5294

Jason

 

[kuma.jason]

Also, were you able to get an air supply to the stove back or bottom? If not, you'll for sure need a block off plate and air will need to slip in around the faceplate.

 

[Ramz28]

Hey just re upping my thread.. so i have used this stove for the entire winter and it has been great.. i have noticed a few problems or stuff im not sure about. I have burned 4 cords of wood. 2 was kiln and 2 was seasoned. I used a moisture meter to check and kiln was 0 or very close and seasoned was under 15%. Ok so the first problem i noticed is it is hard to control the updraft. I start a fire and when i close the door and have the air inlet closed all the way the fire still seems to be going crazy. Is there a fix for this? The next problem is now that im not using the stove and the warm weather. The stove whistles.. its pulling air through the four small holes near the cat damper rod. How do i fix that? I wanted to install a damper but i cant seem to find out how with an insert. My other wood stove has 1 right in the pipe. I hope this was enough for some help or ideas. The chimneys is about 28ft 8in pipe. Thank you..

 

[begreen]

Wondering if it is possible to restrict the air intake a bit more to compensate for the strong draft? Could small magnets be placed over those holes near the bypass control rod? Scotch tape might do for the summer. Just be sure to remove it before starting the next fire in autumn.

 

[weatherguy]

Do a search on this site for Kuma Sequoia. Another member installed one and had a strong draft like you do and he fashioned something to control the air intake like begreen just mentioned.
I think he did it with a dryer hose vent.