Large rounds being split

[jj3500]

Looking for advice. If I'm quartering a huge round, larger than 36", is it a bad idea to use my saw for this? Is the saw not designed to cut in that fashion...or doesn't matter.

I heard either from here or at the power shop that the chains are not truly designed to cut that way...?

 

[gzecc]

I think it is harder on the chain, but if that is all you have......
What kind of wood? I angle the saw until I get noodles. You'll know them when you see them.

 

[jj3500]

Oh yeah...those noodles. Yep. I've gotten them before. But is it like I'm killing my saw? or just dulling the chain prematurely. That I'll just have to sharpen it a little sooner?

Thanks.

 

[smokinj]

That 361 and the 20 in. bar should work out just great!

 

[savageactor7]

JJ lay the round so the bark side is on the ground then cut it in haves or quarters. Some call it noodling and some call it working smart. You'll be amazed how easy this is...every now and then carefully pull the saw away from the log so the longish nest of noodle like strips of wood chips drop to the ground. Otherwise those noodles could interfere with proper oiling...that's what you have to be an guard for.

 

[Gooserider]

Noodling as described will work, and as long as you allow the noodles to clear and not clog up the saw, it won't do any greater harm than cutting normally.

The other option you can use is to split the log by peeling slabs off the edge - then keep working on taking chunks off the resulting corners - you'll get more pieces than you would by noodling, but won't have as much splitting left to do later. (The same trick works with either hand or power splitting BTW, though a good power splitter should be able to do a fairly close to center split, even on a big round.)

Gooserider

 

[LLigetfa]

Sometimes you can get away with just noodling it a few inches deep and then setting wedges in the kerf and splitting it that way.

 

[DBoon]

The hardest part of power hydraulic splitting a 36" round is manhandling into the splitter. Once you do that, you might be able to split it in half even if the splitter wedge doesn't reach the middle of the round. If you get lucky and it halves, then at least the round is half as heavy as it was for subsequent splitting. If it doesn't half, just take pieces off the side of the round.

My father-in-law and I have split nearly 36" sugar maple rounds this way with his MTD 20 ton splitter.

 

[John_M]

Yesterday, I spent two to three hours splitting 30" to 42" ash rounds into halves. I have lived 70 years (71 years this month) and was working alone, so was unable to move the rounds by hand.

This was my first time at splitting rounds this large so here is what I did and it worked very well: Laid the round flat on the ground. Sometimes I used my JD Gator and a yellow tow strap to move the rounds to a flat area where my footing felt secure. Used my chainsaw to cut a 3" to 4" groove/kerf (thanks for the reminder LLigetfa) across the top of the log, following an existing crack, when possible. PUT ON MY SAFETY GLASSES. Used an engineer's hammer (looks like a 2# miniature sledge hammer) to start three 6# wedges into the cut. One wedge about 7 inches in from each edge and one in the center. Gave the three wedges a few good whacks with the engineer's hammer to set them solidly.

Here is where the real fun begins and make darned certain you are wearing SAFETY GLASSES when whacking the wedge with the sledge: Use a 10# sledge-hammer to whack each wedge one or two times. Whack them all another one or two times. Use the engineer's hammer to straighten any wedges which became crooked. Continue this process until the round suddenly splits in half. Wipe the sweat from your eyes and forehead and take a 3 minute to 5 minute break for a drink of water and a pee.

I then used a 25# post hole digger/tamper to cut any stringy wood holding the halves together. This large, heavy and prehistoric tool is then used as a lever to separate the halves. Once separated, the halves are reasonably easy to move around by hand.

The wood I split was ash and splits pretty easily. I do not know if this process would work with other species.

Will split all of yesterday's work today if the weather cooperates.

Best Wishes,

John_M

Edit: My only chainsaw is a Stihl MS250 and would frequently bog down while cutting the groove/kerf in the top of the round. So, it was not designed for heavy work like this. I would imagine that if the wood was more difficult to split than ash I would buy a much larger saw and cut the round into halves or quartes and then split it, as savageactor7 and others suggest.

 

[Drifthopper]

John, and to the others reading this thread.... (john, i hope someone gave you this wood,)

Too go thru all that, I think you're working too hard for your firewood. After reading what you typed above, and i've been there helping others, but for myself, i only cut down 14, 16, 18" diameter trees. I choose to cut down two 16" trees ,,,say,,,over one 20/22"er. It just easier on me.

 

[John_M]

Drifthopper, This 55 year old ash was in my front yard and that is the only reason I would take on a tree this size. I was doing some splitting today and moving even the half rounds and setting them up on the vertical splitter is very hard and sweaty work. I still have about 12 half rounds to split and that will probably take me through the weekend. I have a buddy who is quite a bit younger and stronger than I and if he could find the time to help, we could knock it off in one day. However, I am not good at sitting around waiting for help to show up. When work needs doin' I get at it as soon as possible. That's the only way it gets done.

When cutting my own wood in the future I will select only those trees in the range you suggest and smaller.

Best wishes,

John_M

 

[gzecc]

John, Realize you could rent a monster saw from HD to make your life easier. Just make all the cuts in the 3 hour rental window.

 

[savageactor7]

John M I get bushed just reading your post...I hope you're pacing yourself.

 

[John_M]

savageactor7, Thanks for the concern. When I did all the whacking with the sledge-hammer on Tuesday I became so involved in the work that I did not pace myself. I overdid it a bit. Was exhausted that evening.

Did a little splitting yesterday afternoon between rains and am finding that even though the half rounds are fairly easy to move around, they are not that easy to move to a precise position on the vertical splitter. I'll call my younger and stronger buddy this morning to see if he can give me about one hour of help. If he helps for that hour we can cut the remaining half rounds into quarters and I can easily handle them from there. He is a farmer and has many haying chores (cutting, teting, raking, baling, etc.) this time of year so his time available to help me is dependent on the weather and what he can do with the cut.

Everything will work out just fine.

Best wishes,

John_M

 

[SolarAndWood]

The vertical splitter in the 3 pt on the tractor works well for those big rounds. You can back right up to them and then just rotate the round a little onto the plate. After that the little splitter has no problem with them.

Agreed with drifthopper, if the tree isn't being processed as much for cleanup as btus, those nice straight trees that the 71cc saw with the 20" bar are made for is where its at.

 

[Gooserider]

What I've found makes a lot of difference when handling large rounds is the use of a few extra tools and a bit of technique... Unless I'm actually at the splitter working up a round, I find that I prefer NOT splitting up the big boys as they are easier to deal with in one piece.

Tools -

1. Wood hooks / pulp hooks - these are great on almost any size round - sinking one into the side or end in effect gives you a "handle" that lets you pick up rounds without bending over as far. On larger rounds it lets you pick the place to get a grip where you can use your body strength to best advantage, instead of having to bend over into awkward positions just to get a hand under the round. Only a few cautions - don't miss and hit your leg while sinking a hook - usually it won't penetrate, but does make nasty bruises; also don't pull so hard on a hook that you'll hurt yourself or fall over if it slips out unexpectedly (ask how I know... :red: )

2. Felling lever - good small size pry bar, plus has a very useful mini-cant hook that can be good for giving increased leverage when moving a round.

3. Full size cant hook or peavey - more leverage when needed. Actually I find that I don't use this one that often.

4. Large (5-6') pry bar / wrecking bar - use when you need to get under the round and can't do it with the cant hook...

5. Two wheel dolly - appliance or trashcan style, pick something with large wheels and a heavy duty frame, get a cargo strap to go around a log to hold it in place if needed - good for getting the big chunks to the splitter...

Technique -

1. Keep the rounds on edge if possible - roll them up to the splitter and then flop them over so they fall on the toe plate (one reason to like vertical mode!)

2. If the round is not one you can roll, use the dolly, same idea. (I have even attached the dolly to the back of a truck or lawn tractor to move rounds across the yard...)

3. It can sometimes be easier to move the splitter up to the round than it is to move the round to the splitter - this can work very nicely if you have a tree's worth of rounds all sliced up - bring the splitter to the last round in the row, flop it on to the plate and work it up, tossing the splits out of the way, then move the splitter forward a few feet and flop the next round onto it, and so on...

4. Sometimes a round will have a slope to it that makes it hard to get up against the beam - use the prybar to lift up the far side of the round and slide a split or two under it to level it out.

Gooserider

 

[John_M]

Great suggestions, Gooserider. I've tried variations on some of your suggestions with limited success. Working alone, it is difficult for me to use the pry bar with one hand and work the round with the other. I also seldom use my Peavey. I am unfamiliar with wood/pulp hooks. However, I do have a heavy duty moving dolly with inflatable tires for use on lawns, etc. I'll try that today.

I spent most of yesterday afternoon whacking wedges with sledges again and mostly finished the quartering. That is brutal work for me. This morning, before my neighbor's 4th of July barbeque, I'll use the dolly to move the quarters and halves to the splitter being used in vertical mode. I'll be very happy when all of this tree is being seasoned in my sheltered wood racks.

Wrestlng these heavy rounds into various positions is difficult for me. However, as strange as it might seem, I do take much pleasure in the effort. Hard manual labor is like having kids. One wouldn't sell them for 2 million dollars but one also would not give ten cents for two more just like them.

Best Wishes,

John_M