Lead for flashing

[Ctwoodtick]

Just had an estimate done for masonry chimney flashing. I know very little about how that job gets done. In the proposal, he mentioned using lead in the project. Is using lead a standard thing with flashing?
Here’s the proposal: is $985 a bit high for this work?

“Labor and material as needed to replace the existing flashing, on an existing chimney top. New lead flashing is to be used at the roofline replacing cracked and eroded aluminum as needed, cut into the masonry, and woven into the shingles to provide a watertight seal. A “cricket” will be added on the upper end of the chimney on the lower roof to eliminate water pocketing in this corner.”

 

[peakbagger]

Yes its pretty much standard. Copper can also be used but its a lot more expensive as it needs to be fabricated to fit. .

 

[bholler]

Just had an estimate done for masonry chimney flashing. I know very little about how that job gets done. In the proposal, he mentioned using lead in the project. Is using lead a standard thing with flashing?
Here’s the proposal: is $985 a bit high for this work?

“Labor and material as needed to replace the existing flashing, on an existing chimney top. New lead flashing is to be used at the roofline replacing cracked and eroded aluminum as needed, cut into the masonry, and woven into the shingles to provide a watertight seal. A “cricket” will be added on the upper end of the chimney on the lower roof to eliminate water pocketing in this corner.”

For stone yes lead is common. Not really for brick. But is is great flashing.

 

[bholler]

Yes its pretty much standard. Copper can also be used but its a lot more expensive as it needs to be fabricated to fit. .

Copper can be feild formed very easily as well but the material is much more expensive.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I wanted to bump this thread to see what you all thought about the price quoted.

 

[peakbagger]

IMHO its a days work so $985 is not unreasonable for Connecticut.

 

[Hogwildz]

Not a bad price. Can be done much cheaper if you are handy and know what you are doing. There is a good chance the old flashing can be removed and the reglet cut can be reused to install the new flashing. Otherwise a grinder with diamond blade can easily cut a new reglet. Are you sure you need the step & counter flashings, and the lack of cricket is not the problem to start with. Not saying it don't happen, but I never saw aluminum flashings "erode". There is some cheap thin stuff builders use which is a step thicker than tin foil. But a good .032 or thicker flashing will outlast you. Crickets are a must behind a chimney that is taking water off the roof head on. The PO here never installed one, and that is on my fix it project list.
The price for all the work described is very reasonable for a pro to come out and perform the work. All the flashings involved should be made on site to assure proper fit.

 

[Hogwildz]

Make sure they install Ice and water shield on the roof decking all around the chimney and on the cricket also.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Thanks for the responses. How long would the work/ materials be expected to hold up for?

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks for the responses. How long would the work/ materials be expected to hold up for?

I've seen lead and copper on 100+ yr old homes in great shape. The weakest part is the roofing material itself. If shingles, would be depended on yr rating. The work should outlast the rest of the roof, if done properly. Should easily last 20-25+ yrs., the lead flashings longer.

 

[vwmike]

Seems like a good price to me, and I'm cheap

 

[peakbagger]

I had some lead flashing that failed. It was poorly installed to begin with and I had attempted to seal it up with silicon caulking. its turns out that cheap silicon rubber caulking uses Acetic Acid to react. The acid reacted with the lead and it was pretty well corroded in spots when I got around to replacing it.

Moral of the story don't use cheap silicon rubber sealant. The high priced Silicon 2 uses alcohol for curing and does not have the corrosive effect.

 

[Hogwildz]

I had some lead flashing that failed. It was poorly installed to begin with and I had attempted to seal it up with silicon caulking. its turns out that cheap silicon rubber caulking uses Acetic Acid to react. The acid reacted with the lead and it was pretty well corroded in spots when I got around to replacing it.

Moral of the story don't use cheap silicon rubber sealant. The high priced Silicon 2 uses alcohol for curing and does not have the corrosive effect.

Skip the silicone and use a good urethane caulk. The only place you should even need caulk is in the reglet cut, and maybe in the corners where the steps & base overlap each other.

 

[bholler]

Skip the silicone and use a good urethane caulk. The only place you should even need caulk is in the reglet cut, and maybe in the corners where the steps & base overlap each other.

I agree completely. But if using lead you can easily form it around the corners so no need there.

 

[Hogwildz]

I agree completely. But if using lead you can easily form it around the corners so no need there.

Exactly, lead is the best for forming. There is even lead coated copper of which it and copper can be soldered if need be.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Thanks all for the help. I’ll contact this company to get this work done.