Learning to run a stove....some questions

[Andrewj]

I grew up with an open fireplace and back then we had no idea how wasteful that was. It managed to keep our little house kind of warm, but it was all we had. So now my first winter with a stove, I am learning there is much to be learned! It runs completely differently.

I understand I need the firebox hot, the flu not as hot (warm enough for draft, not so warm as to lose heat outthe chimney) and I will need to find a flue thermometer - can anyone recommend one?

Second, I use the air control on the stove - a Jotul F 100. (yes, small stove, room heater only, probably undersize, we are looking for a blaze king princess but tough to find used ones) that air control is a mystery - you have to be some kind of wizard to decode the marvels of that odd design. the only sucess I have had is by listening very carefully to the amount of air whooshing in!

do I need air control in the flu itself to prevent hot gases from escaping out of the firebox? If the answer is yes, we also have double wall black stove pipe so where would you put this damper in that pipe if not directly above the stove?

One final point - In our Jotul I think 3 hour burns are about the norm on a full load of wood. If i damper down hard I can get coals the next morning. I am seeing people in threads with a new blaze king princess that have similar problems, but am I correct to think if you take learning curve out of the question, I will have longer burn times and more heat out of a BK P? ( also with the caveat a BTU is a BTU - I am just trying to keep them all in the box and from escaping out hte chimney)

 

[JA600L]

You need atleast 260 degrees the whole way up the chimney or you will get creosote buildup.

 

[begreen]

Your stove is designed to burn cleanly by not smoldering the wood. Closing down the air control restricts only the primary air. The flue draft then starts pulling more air through the preheated secondary manifold and reburn of the wood gases comences at and in front of the secondary ports. A certain amount of heat going up the flue is desirable. Although the combustion is good on EPA stoves, it's not perfect. There are still gases that go up the flue. Keeping the flue gases hot enough prevents these gases from condensing on the inside of the flue pipe. Condensation occurs below about 250F so you want the flue gases to be hot enough leaving the stove so that they are still above 250F exiting the top of the chimney. Burn dry wood and this should not be a problem. 3-4 hrs is a normal burn time for this small stove. If you see no smoke coming out of the chimney then it is burning properly.

Condar makes good thermometers. Be aware that there are different types depending on whether you want to use it for the stove top or flue pipe. They are essentially the same, but the painted ranges vary depending on the application.

 

[webby3650]

I don't know where you heard about the poor burn times with a princess, but don't believe it. If someone is experiencing this, they are in the minority and need to address some issues with their home.
You indeed have a very small stove. Although its a good quality stove, upgrading to a larger stove would be a good move. That stove will just about fit inside the Princess! Are you sure the Princess isnt too big for your space? You might check out the Sirroco 20, or the ashford 20 from Blaze King, they are a little smaller but will still give fabulous burn times.
You'd be able to sleep all night!

 

[weatherguy]

One final point - In our Jotul I think 3 hour burns are about the norm on a full load of wood. If i damper down hard I can get coals the next morning. I am seeing people in threads with a new blaze king princess that have similar problems, but am I correct to think if you take learning curve out of the question, I will have longer burn times and more heat out of a BK P? ( also with the caveat a BTU is a BTU - I am just trying to keep them all in the box and from escaping out hte chimney)

I think a monkey could get 10 hours out of a Princess with no training.