Lil chip wood furnace?
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maple1
Minister of Fire
I think I would pay heed to Bren's suggestion to just run some new shorter separate ducting for the Daka, at least for this winter. The concept of running hot air into an unheated attic always boggled my mind a bit - plus straight up is a very good thing to strive for for a wood furnace - things get hot when the power goes out & the distribution fan stops cooling it.
Good luck!!
Good luck!!
Seems like a good price for a new wood furnace, make sure it has enough output to meet your heat-load before you install it.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Even if it doesn't have enough output on the coldest day of the year, it will still take a huge bite out of their electric heat bill
Here is a rough sketch of house.. side and top view. Only have a half/third basement under neath so that is my biggest challenge I was going to put the stove in back corner first but had too far to run to main heater. So I'm thinking of putting it on the wall closest to the heater then try to pipe flu straight up the wall and enclose it with type x and steel studs. With double wall class a. I think that's the most direct way to do it.]
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Good choice getting the daka over the old burn out or the crappy green dragon from TSC.
I would also mention that if you buy shaker grates you can burn soft coal in it. Most here don't like coal much. But when you can get a ton of something for $100 and do zero work to it it makes all the time us wood enthusiast spend seem silly.
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I would also mention that if you buy shaker grates you can burn soft coal in it. Most here don't like coal much. But when you can get a ton of something for $100 and do zero work to it it makes all the time us wood enthusiast spend seem silly.
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
So you are thinking of going straight up through the house for the chimney? That's the best way if you can do it. You said you will enclose it with steel studs and "type X"? I'm not familiar, what's type x?
What are you thinking for ducts work? I think running a couple separate ducts with their own registers is gonna be the way to go for you...
What are you thinking for ducts work? I think running a couple separate ducts with their own registers is gonna be the way to go for you...
Type x Is fire resistant drywall 5/8 think. Alof of the local codes use doubles 5/8 for a fire break in commercial building
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
As long as you maintain the 2" (minimum) clearance you can use standard drywall and studs, just fyi
I'm weary on the separate duct/vents because our bedroom is a ways away from the heater would be on other side of house and not easily accessible from the crawl space. I can much easier run it in direct to the main trunk of the primary unit and use that fan to distribute. I think if I can get it situated right in the basement I can vent the flue straight up with class a, and keep the pipe/box hidden away, and have semi direct way to run vent. it says use the barometric draft.. do I have to use the data brand or can I use the volgen... Would there be any benefit to a mortar chimney?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
It may work for you with tying into the main ducts, but I am afraid it may disappoint you. Plus, if the power goes out you'll have a heat trap, and the furnace could go into meltdown mode.That's why wood furnaces need to always have rise on the (duct) runs, so the heat can gravity flow if needed (plus it will just work better too)
Maybe you can do both, tie into the main line and run a couple independent too...
As far as the baro, use a Fields brand http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
A class A chimney is better than a mortar one...a straight up class A (through the house) is the best of all
Maybe you can do both, tie into the main line and run a couple independent too...
As far as the baro, use a Fields brand http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
A class A chimney is better than a mortar one...a straight up class A (through the house) is the best of all
The location I want to put it has inside (between joists) of 10.5 inches.. I will be using 6" double wall my minimum is 12" rigjt? Anyway I can get away with what I have now?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
You talkin about class A double wall? Yes, you need 12 inches minimum for that....sounds like you will need to box out the framing
Part of my basement is 12" oc the other is 16.. of course I picked the 12" oc part.. I was afraid I was going to have to box it out..
I plan on starting the install this weekend I bought my class a double wall for about 56$ a 3ft piece at lowes. (Menard had it on sale for 65$ then I had a coupon for 11%) and I got the install kit for 150$ and some misc black pipe. I ordered the data flu damper because I didn't want to run into any warrant issues later for not using their specified one. I know you have to use the 8" galvanized ductwork for at least the first part, but can I use the flex 20 or 30 ft down the line? Or does it all have to be ridgid?
Also I may upgrade to the 1600cfm variable speed blower
Also I may upgrade to the 1600cfm variable speed blower
Bad LP
Minister of Fire
Double wall or insulated double wall? class A insulated double wall is only 1 inch clearance.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Better double check that one...its 2" minimum clearance on class A pipe, 6" for double wall stove pipe.
That's what I was thinking. Only because my triple wall pipe still has the stickers on it that's say 2" minimum. It is impressive stuff though as hot as I have run my chimney that outside pipe always feels colder then the air when you touch it. It is 10" though for a 6" ID
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Its your house so obviously you can do as you please...but code is for all metal supply ducts...myself, I would follow that rule. If the power goes out right after you load the firebox, you'll be shocked how hot things get, and fast. And that's another reason to do the ductwork right, if you always keep some rise on your runs then the heat can gravity flow during a power outage. Much less fire risk and it will keep your house from freezing up...
Lost power last night actually. Of course it happened an hour after loading for the night, so it was at its hottest point. Thankfully, I designed and sized the ductwork for this exact purpose. Pulled the air filters and had heat all night throughout the house, No over heating of the unit or anything. 7 hours powerless.
Are there any clearences required on the warm air ductwork? First 4 or so feet will be in open before going into the floor joist I'm about to get photos and do a drawing to see if it works
The second photo is for sizing/layout to see what is where. First photo is placement. I ended up taking out this ugly ugly domed dark brown shower and putting it where it was. Planned on taking it out anyway but gave good reason.. found a huge rat/squirrel condo under the tubs. I will be moving a toilet and some other plumbing to make it work but worth it I think still have to box and frame the joists below as well. Lot of work but it's best location. I planned on running the air duct slightly angled but straight up and then elbow over to main distrubition. So 45 degree off stove then 4ft run. 45degree (will be straight vertical then) to ceiling 8ft run then elbow to 10-12 ft to existing heater..
