liner size issue

[cgesek]

So I bought an Englander 28-4000 wood furnace and am planning on installing it in my basement. My understanding is that it's basically an NC-30 woodstove wrapped in a sheetmetal shell with a blower on the inlet and a hookup for ductwork on the outlet. I have approximately 36 ft of brick chimney(3 stories) with a clay flue that measures about 11"x6.5" inside. There is already a 5"liner for the oil-fired boiler(which is staying). The Englander has a 6" chimney outlet and the manual requires a 6" liner.

I'm pretty sure that I wouldn't get a 6" liner in next to the 5", so my plan was to break out the clay flue to make room. This is proving to be much more difficult than expected. At the top, the flue seems to be right up against the brick, and by-design or not there is mortar bonding the flue to the brick. At the bottom, where there some of the flue was already broken out, there might be 1/2" of space between the flue and the brick. I've broken out the top 5-6ft of flue and I'm very skeptical that I can actually break out the entire thing. I'm also concerned about damaging the brick structure in the process.

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to proceed. Would a 5.5" liner be ok? Is it going to fit? What about 5"? Continue beating on the clay? I'll try to attach pictures of the flue and the tool I made to break it. Thanks for any advice.

 

[bholler]

So I bought an Englander 28-4000 wood furnace and am planning on installing it in my basement. My understanding is that it's basically an NC-30 woodstove wrapped in a sheetmetal shell with a blower on the inlet and a hookup for ductwork on the outlet. I have approximately 36 ft of brick chimney(3 stories) with a clay flue that measures about 11"x6.5" inside. There is already a 5"liner for the oil-fired boiler(which is staying). The Englander has a 6" chimney outlet and the manual requires a 6" liner.

I'm pretty sure that I wouldn't get a 6" liner in next to the 5", so my plan was to break out the clay flue to make room. This is proving to be much more difficult than expected. At the top, the flue seems to be right up against the brick, and by-design or not there is mortar bonding the flue to the brick. At the bottom, where there some of the flue was already broken out, there might be 1/2" of space between the flue and the brick. I've broken out the top 5-6ft of flue and I'm very skeptical that I can actually break out the entire thing. I'm also concerned about damaging the brick structure in the process.

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to proceed. Would a 5.5" liner be ok? Is it going to fit? What about 5"? Continue beating on the clay? I'll try to attach pictures of the flue and the tool I made to break it. Thanks for any advice.
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If it were me i would line that with the 5" and put in a 6" prefab chimney.

 

[cgesek]

Not the answer I was looking for! It will be a real project to get a pre-fab installed. Am I unlikely to get another liner (say a 5.5") alongside the 5"er for the oil?

 

[bholler]

Not the answer I was looking for! It will be a real project to get a pre-fab installed. Am I unlikely to get another liner (say a 5.5") alongside the 5"er for the oil?

Not with insulation as there should be.

 

[HomeinPA]

Not the answer I was looking for! It will be a real project to get a pre-fab installed. Am I unlikely to get another liner (say a 5.5") alongside the 5"er for the oil?

I'd give it a little less than a snowball's chance that you'd fit an uninsulated 6" liner down there by itself with those tiles there, let alone another 5" beside it. As bholler mentioned, the liner for the wood stove will need to be insulated to be code compliant. Bite the bullet and do it right, put in the insulated Class-A chimney for the stove and put the 5" in for the furnace. The "hassle" of the class-A is a walk in the park compared to trying to break out mortared in tiles for 35 feet.

 

[SculptureOfSound]

With the tiles there no way. With them removed maybe a 6 oval liner turned 90 degrees would work. They are only like 4.5" on their short dimension and a bit over 7 long. Could even try the duravent rigid oval which is pre insulated but it would have to be an extremely straight chimney. Very doubtful that would work. An uninsulated flex oval should work but no insulation is almost never up to code.

 

[double-d]

Keep in mind that all round liners are 1/4" larger on the outside, so the 6" is really 6.25". Either of these liners, 6" or 5.5" liner you still need the Tee connector, if you are coming out of the wall and those Connectors are about 6 3/8" OD. Pretty tight fit going 35'

 

[cgesek]

Alright, thanks for the replies. I'll take a hard look at where I can run a pre-fab chimney.