Liner T, Cap Or No Cap?

[Todd]

Right now my liner is just directly connected to the stove pipe through the crock. I'm thinking of installing a T on my 5.5" liner so I can use my clean out. What does everyone do with the bottom T cap, leave it off or on? I'd have to extend the bottom of the T in order to reach it from the clean out. If I just leave the cap off will it effect the draft?

 

[edthedawg]

At the risk of sounding naive - you're asking about the cleanout cap on the bottom of a regular SS liner tee? You gotta have that capped, even if the tee is extended down for the cap to be reachable other than the CO risk, not having it there will totally kill your draft plus increase creo condensation w/ all that cool fresh air drawn in after the stove.

Or am i completely misreading your situation?

 

[Todd]

Sorry, I should of gave a little more info. The liner runs down an 8x12 clay tile flue directly through the crock and hooks up to the stove pipe. The original flue has a clean out door about 3' below the crock, so I was thinking if I just left off the cap I still have a good tight sealing clean out door so why cap it again?

 

[BrotherBart]

I know that mine, which I believe is almost a carbon copy of your chimney setup, is anything but airtight even with the clean out door sealed. When I was originally thinking about using a tee I was going to attach a second piece of liner on the bottom and put the cap on it down at the clean out. I ended up just pulling the liner through the crock like you did.

 

[Todd]

Yeah, it probably isn't as air tight as I was first thinking, there are cob webs inside that clean out. I'll just cap it.

 

[BrotherBart]

Curious why you want to change to a tee. Ya gotta pull the stove pipe to clean it out anyway. Is the brush having too hard a time making the turn into the crock?

Hmmm... I think I know. The crap coming into the house when you pull the brush through. I secure a large plastic trash bag over the thimble and grip the rope with the bag and pull rope, brush and crud all into the bag. A hose clamp is perfect for securing the bag.

 

[Todd]

The brush not making the turn is part of it and it would also be nice to inspect it from the bottom with a mirror at the clean out instead of going up on the roof. Another thing is my stove pipe stays clean, so with a tee I can just run a brush straight down without disconnecting all the time. I'm also changing out my stove pipe and crock setup, it's kind of a jerry rigged system and the tee will help make it right. Thanks again BB.

 

[Todd]

I also do the plastic bag trick, no rope, I use rods and stop the brush right at the 90 before the crock. Then I clean it out and run the brush from inside to get the rest.

I think I'll steal your idea of a pull ring or some kind of threaded rod with a tee to grab and bolt it to the cap. Does that cap screw on or just slide on kind a loosely? If my arm was 6" longer I could reach it.

 

[BrotherBart]

The tee I am sending you is held on with sheet metal screws. The cap already has a pull ring on it that was used when I tried to get it down the chimney with the liner before I gave up on it.

PS: So other readers don't get confused by these posts, I am sending Todd the tee I didn't use with my liner so he can give it a try on his. We are having the conversation here instead of by email in case others are dealing with a similar installation.

 

[Todd]

When I installed my liner it slid right down to the crock with no problems. I didn't even need to pull from the bottom. I suppose the tee is a tad larger diameter than the 5.5" liner so it may go down a little harder.

 

[BrotherBart]

When I installed my liner it slid right down to the crock with no problems. I didn't even need to pull from the bottom. I suppose the tee is a tad larger diameter than the 5.5" liner so it may go down a little harder.

Yup. No problem sliding the liner down. With the protrusions on the tee it is a whole nother ballgame.

 

[Todd]

Do you remember what brand that tee is? Looks like all 5.5" tee's are really 6" but have a differnt top to connect a 5.5" liner?

 

[BrotherBart]

It is a TCE kit made in Canada. If it won't fit I offer a 100% money back refund policy. :lol:

(broken link removed)

 

[Todd]

It is a TCE kit made in Canada. If it won't fit I offer a 100% money back refund policy. :lol:

(broken link removed)

Ha, I'll make it fit! Pretty cool how the snout locks in with a little twist instead of those bands.

 

[Todd]

Just pulled out the liner, it was harder getting it out than in. Up and down the ladder trying to pull and push to get it around the 90 in the crock. It's been in there for 5 years and there is some discoloration on the bottom 1/4, must get hot. %-P

 

[summit]

i run into this scenario all the time when lining a chimney that has a cleanout access door, and honestly, if a cleanout door is there, the best way to do it is to mortar off the area around the mouth of the tee and leave the cap off. it is easier to access than wrestling with a cap thru the cleanout door, and i have noticed no ill effects from doing so. Pack unfaced fiberglass insy around the mouth opening, and fill in with nice sticky mortar and little chunks of rock or brick to hold it together. leave the mouth opening about 2" from the cleanout door and you are all set.

 

[Todd]

i run into this scenario all the time when lining a chimney that has a cleanout access door, and honestly, if a cleanout door is there, the best way to do it is to mortar off the area around the mouth of the tee and leave the cap off. it is easier to access than wrestling with a cap thru the cleanout door, and i have noticed no ill effects from doing so. Pack unfaced fiberglass insy around the mouth opening, and fill in with nice sticky mortar and little chunks of rock or brick to hold it together. leave the mouth opening about 2" from the cleanout door and you are all set.

Interesting, so you pretty much make it air tight in the clean out area. I think I'd have to use alot of mortar, my whole clean out area and crock have gaps where it goes through the concrete block.

What do you mean by leave the mouth opening about 2" from clean out door? My clean out is about 2' below the crock. The tee bottom would have to be extended?

 

[Wet1]

i run into this scenario all the time when lining a chimney that has a cleanout access door, and honestly, if a cleanout door is there, the best way to do it is to mortar off the area around the mouth of the tee and leave the cap off. it is easier to access than wrestling with a cap thru the cleanout door, and i have noticed no ill effects from doing so. Pack unfaced fiberglass insy around the mouth opening, and fill in with nice sticky mortar and little chunks of rock or brick to hold it together. leave the mouth opening about 2" from the cleanout door and you are all set.

Do you have any pictures?

 

[Todd]

What do you think about using something like this to fill in around the mouth?
http://greatstuff.dow.com/greatstuff/diy/products/fireblock.htm

Nevermind. After further research I don't think foam would be safe.