Log splitter will only split at low engine RPM

[VirginiaIron]

One time, I saw a galvanized length of 1.5 pipe throttled down to about 1/2 inch at a fitting due to a blob of sealant the was rock hard.

I checked the name BEYDEN on line and only found two Chinese companies.

Is there any other information on the tank, pump, or engine?

 

[nezwick]

It's actually LEYDEN, Melrose Park, Illinois - and if they're actually still in business, they don't have much of a Web presence.

There is no information at all on the engine. Wish there was because I'd like to know the age/serial. I knew it was a Wisconsin, but had to use clues like distributor type, etc. to determine it was a TJD and not a THD (14 HP) or any other. The name plate is supposed to be on the side facing the big tank, but it's long gone.

As for the pump, I'll see if I can get out there and check today. I didn't see anything last time I looked it over. Everything has so many layers of paint and oil sludge, it makes identification pretty difficult.

 

[kevin j]

someone has good eyes on that little hose. that’s a case drain and that’s a game changer. I wasn’t paying close enough attention to what the pump is. I assumed it was a fixed gear pump. can you send a bigger picture of the pump and any name plate info. looks like a variable axial piston pump which would mean if there’s pressure drop in the outlet pressure side that the pump will compensate back and reduce thd flow. start with a picture of the pump and then we need to get a pressure gauge on the outlet of the pump or preferably close to the pump as possible.

if this is a pressure compensated variable piston pump then it’s likely that the valve is a close center. That shouldn’t affect anything we’re talking about but it something to keep in mind


what fluid is in the system now? engine oil ATF or hydraulic fluid?

 

[kevin j]

more thoughts.
1. Even if there’s no tag on the pump some pictures and if there’s anything like symbols cast into the pump housing or any trademarks. it looks probably like it’s going to be Cessna or vickers but there several older piston pump makers.
2. next any lay line information on that suction hose? There should be some kind of a printed or embossed information running the length of the holes. with the crimped end fittings it looks like it’s a re-purposed pressure hose.
3. do the end fittings look correct for what they connect to? it looks like it has JIC swivel ends on the hose which would be the most common but is it possible that the JIC was screwed onto a pipe thread? is there any evidence of cross threading or jamming it together. deformed threads it would be leaking air

4. next question there’s no substitute like being there in person but could you take a video of this thing do a complete walk around and see each area close up. then do a video while it’s running to be able to hear what the sound is.

this is becoming combat. we will not be defeated !

 

[Jags]

Whatever that fluid is in the tank didn’t happen because of gas contaminating it. Best guess is still water, but there could be some airation involved as well. I believe the OP stated that he did not remove the hoses when changing the fluid the first time. That leaves quite a bit of oil in the rest of the system. Heck - a 6” diameter cylinder could have enough volume to recontaminate new oil. I am not saying I know the answer (yet - stick with us OP and we will get it worked out), just pointing out some long distance observances.

Interesting stuff on the variable axle piston pump. That is new territory for me.

Side note: if the hydro tank and fuel tank had a leak between the two, it would most likely contaminate both sides. Especially if there were a suction/pressure environment. Another test would be if both sides stay level with each other. Fluid seeks its own level.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I think the OP should send some pictures of the tank and whole unit to Leyden and maybe some older tech might have something to say.

 

[Jags]

I think the OP should send some pictures of the tank and whole unit to Leyden and maybe some older tech might have something to say.

Not a bad idea, but I am betting our very own hero of hydro (@kevin j ) has this sucker in the cross hairs. On a selfish note - I might just get to learn something too.

 

[nezwick]

Yeah, there is quite a bit of information on the hose. Next time I go out I will write it down and report it here.

Here's a quick 5min walkaround video for you. Sorry for my amateur narration and shaky camera work, but videography's not my profession...



I'll need to find a way to set the iPad up so it will film me trying to split wood.

 

[Ashful]

Love the exhaust pipe! Time to switch it to a smoke stack with a flapper.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I noticed a nameplate above the pump at what appears to be an adapter plate on the engine.

I also have a 1971 Hobart DC welder with a similar Wisconsin engine. I have paperwork for the engine and I will see if I can find it. Maybe it will be some help to you.

 

[nezwick]

Actually, I am going to get a tractor muffler for it with the flapper, not joking. There is no muffler right now and it's LOUD. It sounds like someone is revving their Harley out in the pasture. The neighbors surely hate us because of our loud old equipment collection. You can see how close their house is to the wood pile (our farm was subdivided back in the early 1970s and of course some tool stuck a house right there.

 

[greg13]

I would guess the Wisconsin motor is from the 70's. Parts are getting harder and harder to find for them. I think Subaru ended up owning them. I haven't worked on one since the 80's and even back then the parts were over priced.
The pump may be a vickers. they were a common pump in the 70's also.
You can answer the question of a leak between the tanks by pressurizing the Hydraulic tank and checking the fuel tank, it will only take 10-20 psi in the tank to make bubbles in the fuel tank.
For future reference if you have any galvanized pipe or fittings you will want to change them to black iron or steel. Galvanizing has been known to flake off in Hydraulic systems and take out pumps.

 

[kevin j]

Great video. P.m. sent. I’ll post here later

it is a variable pressure compensated piston pump.

 

[triptester]

Be very careful when pressurizing a flat sided tank it takes very little pressure to bulge the sides. At the shop they use regulated air at 5 psi max. when testing tanks.
The cylinder appears to be a pneumatic cylinder, by the looks of the end caps and the size of the tie-rods, rather than a hydraulic cylinder. Pneumatic cylinders have a much lower pressure rating.
I don't think that spark plug in the discharge line has a hydraulic rating.

 

[brenndatomu]

I don't think that spark plug in the discharge line has a hydraulic rating

Should be good for a least a couple hundred PSI

 

[salecker]

What a cool awesome over engineered spilter.
Makes the junk they sell nowadays look pretty cheap.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Should be good for a least a couple hundred PSI

Some race engines have about 1500 psi on the power stroke. However, I've seen small base plugs spit out in oil contaminated cylinders of stock engines. It looks like it might take the knee out if it releases unexpectedly, but then it looks like a Champ brand?, lol. What about the danger from the oil? I still might want to turn that fitting away from the operator.

 

[Ashful]

Some race engines have about 1500 psi on the power stroke. However, I've seen small base plugs spit out in oil contaminated cylinders of stock engines. It looks like it might take the knee out if it releases unexpectedly, but then it looks like a Champ brand?, lol. What about the danger from the oil? I still might want to turn that fitting away from the operator.

Hydraulic failures are usually somewhat anticlimactic. Unlike a compressible gas, where there’s all sorts of stored energy to be released, non-compressible fluids can’t store up much energy at log splitter pressures (3000 psi) prior to the failure.

What can be dangerous is fluid escaping a pin hole at high velocity, but that’s different than an ejected spark plug.

 

[blades]

in any event gonna cause problems if you catch the plug. Oil under pressure can penetrate skin -nasty infections from that. Very pricy at the local practitioners of the black arts for either.

 

[nezwick]

Already one step ahead with the spark plug "plug". I took it out today and replaced it with an actual pipe plug. The spark plug was barely threaded in (because the threads aren't NPT, duh) and I'm shocked it didn't come shooting out.

I also did a little maintenance to the engine - new plugs, wires, cleaned debris out of the shroud. Installed a muffler too (for a Ford tractor) but it really didn't quiet it down all that much. Still super loud.


YES! It IS an air cylinder. I was very confused when I saw the tag and it said "Air". When I looked up that model in Parker's catalog, it was all about "air" cylinders and I didn't understand. Honestly never even heard of an air cylinder.

I got a video today of me splitting wood with the splitter. Of course, it was on its best behavior... did not really have any trouble with it. Figures. I'll post the video on here as soon as I get it uploaded.

 

[Jags]

Take notice of the tag - Norm. W.P. 250. That stands for normal working pressure 250 psi (air).

 

[nezwick]

Yep, and that's what made even less sense to me, since it is clearly in a hydraulic situation and not pneumatic. Now I see it's just a case of a person improvising.

 

[nezwick]

Here's the video. Sorry that all you really get to see is my lower half but the best vantage point I could get was the iPad on the trailer.

In the video, I'm mostly splitting pieces from a live apple tree that the power company cut down back in November. We all know how much of a pain fruit wood is to split.

 

[nezwick]

Also wanted to mention that I drove around to a ton of places today looking for an hydraulic pressure gauge but nobody carries them. NAPA can order it (3 day wait) or I can drive all the way into Akron where there are a couple industrial supply houses. I might just have NAPA order instead of going through Northern or Amazon. Got to show support to the brick and mortar stores.

I ended up splitting and stacking a little over a cord today. It was a bit temperamental in the beginning. But after misbehaving for maybe 5-6 logs, it corrected itself and worked fine the rest of the day. It gets better with every little change I make. It’s slow going but I do already have 3.5 of my 10+ cords all ready to go for next season thanks to this machine.

I do want to address the tank pressurization issue next. If I can install the breather in the top cover, I’ll do the “upside down oil filter” trick. I’ll get to use my drill press on steel for the first time ever.

 

[brenndatomu]

I might just have NAPA order instead of going through Northern or Amazon. Got to show support to the brick and mortar stores.

Tractor Supply and/or Rural King normally have hydraulic pressure gauges in stock...