Looking for a small wood stove with tight clearances

[handwedge]

Hi all, first time poster -- learning about wood stoves, slowly but surely. We have an old enclosed A-Frame cabin (~1000 sq ft) built by my grandfather in the 60s. We had a wood stove in there until recently, but the insurance company said they could no longer insure it (it was about 70 yrs old -- see attached pics).

We'd like to install a new wood stove that will meet Canadian clearance standards and allow us to use the space we have (without having to reconfigure the surroundings, add heat shields, or large hearth pads etc). We don't need huge heat production, just enough to take the chill off the main room (which is 300 sq feet) in the mornings (and hopefully, we'll get some radiant heat off the chimney upstairs).

I've attached several photos of the current stove and space, along with some measurements.

Wondering if anyone knows a model of wood stove that might work in this space. The key is small footprint and small clearances. The rock wall behind the current stove is attached to a combustable surface. The rock wall to the left is non-combustable (the pipe enters above).

Appreciate any help or suggestions.
Thanks!

 

[begreen]

That's a tough one. Unfortunately, the original installation was most likely illegal due to the rear clearance of the stove. The stone behind the stove does not qualify for a clearance reduction. Otherwise, a Petit Godin came to mind.

 

[handwedge]

Thanks, Begreen -- that's what we were afraid of. There may not be a good option without extending the hearth pad and moving the stove out further (which doesn't really work with the space). We're considering leaving the current stove in place and dropping the fire insurance on the cabin (only purchasing separate liability insurance in the event that someone's hurt). It's an old cabin and the stove is used rarely. This might be the easiest way to go (until we ultimately gut/renovate or completely rebuild). The current stove is a very cool old stove -- my grandfather found it (stole it) from the basement of a court house sixty years ago. They think it's from the early 1900s.

 

[ABMax24]

What about a Vermont Castings Aspen? Other than they are unavailable right now. Only needs 3" clearance to combustibles on the backside, as long as the 14" side wall clearance can be reduced given that wall is considered non-combustible.

My concern comes with the stove pipe itself, even with double wall can the required 6" of clearance by observed if the back wall is considered combustible? Looks pretty tight back there.

 

[begreen]

Yes, good suggestion. I thought of the Aspen, but it will project further into the room and will need a hearth pad or extension.

 

[handwedge]

Good point, ABMax24
We actually had a WETT installing/inspector on site and he said the chimney shouldn't be an issue -- the main challenge was the clearances to the walls and the extension of the hearth pad. If we can't find that, then other options might be to install a gas stove (but we'd really like to do wood because the cabin is in the middle of nowhere and there's plenty of wood to burn).
Thanks for all your feedback.

 

[Todd]

Maybe a small Morso 1440 Squirrel stove would work?

 

[Smolder]

I might suggest a small Blaze King like the Ashford 25. It can be used installed very close to things and the hearth doesn’t need any insulation value, just spark protection. We have one in Ontario. Clearances and hearth material were important in out selection.

 

[jpm995]

I have a True North TN10 and it's very small with tight clearances. It's not pretty like your antique stove but says it heats up to 900 sq ft. It's a pain to use as it only takes wood up to 12" long.

 

[handwedge]

Thanks again for all your feedback. After long discussions, and given our space restrictions, we've decided to keep the antique wood stove we currently have (the one in the photos above) and forego insurance (as we can't WETT certify). Our cabin is old and doesn't have much value anyway. We will still get liability insurance, of course.

There are a few small cracks in the cast iron. We plan on using JB Weld Extreme Heat to seal them up. Any other tips about the stove or chimney safety would be greatly appreciated. I suppose we should have the chimney cleaned and inspected as well.

Thanks again!

 

[bholler]

Thanks again for all your feedback. After long discussions, and given our space restrictions, we've decided to keep the antique wood stove we currently have (the one in the photos above) and forego insurance (as we can't WETT certify). Our cabin is old and doesn't have much value anyway. We will still get liability insurance, of course.

There are a few small cracks in the cast iron. We plan on using JB Weld Extreme Heat to seal them up. Any other tips about the stove or chimney safety would be greatly appreciated. I suppose we should have the chimney cleaned and inspected as well.

Thanks again!

My only tips are don't use the setup as it is. There are so many safety issues I don't even know where to start. The stove isn't even a wood stove it's meant for coal.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Thanks again for all your feedback. After long discussions, and given our space restrictions, we've decided to keep the antique wood stove we currently have (the one in the photos above) and forego insurance (as we can't WETT certify). Our cabin is old and doesn't have much value anyway. We will still get liability insurance, of course.

There are a few small cracks in the cast iron. We plan on using JB Weld Extreme Heat to seal them up. Any other tips about the stove or chimney safety would be greatly appreciated. I suppose we should have the chimney cleaned and inspected as well.

Thanks again!

Nope, don't do it. Epoxy has no place in a fire box. I don't care what the heat rating is. Brazing would be a much better option, but even that is questionable. Stoves can get very hot, and can melt even brazed joints. If it is cracked, stop using it.

You need a new stove for heating. I have seen modern stoves at our local hearth store that look just like yours. They have near-zero clearances. Do not ever glue/epoxy a stove together.

 

[begreen]

Not to be contrary, I share your skepticism, but just last week I read about an older VC or Jotul repair with a big crack in the fire back, and side burn plates using this epoxy. It sounds like it has made it through several burns. I don't recommend it, but truth be told I haven't tried it either.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Not to be contrary, I share your skepticism, but just last week I read about an older VC or Jotul repair with a big crack in the fire back, and side burn plates using this epoxy. It sounds like it has made it through several burns. I don't recommend it, but truth be told I haven't tried it either.

From what I have heard/read about high temp epoxy, it will last a while, but will eventually degrade. I sometimes use jb weld on chainsaw cylinders when porting, but not in the combustion chamber and not inside the exhaust port. I have used it to repair pinholes in exhaust ports with good results, but the aluminum is a heatsink in that application, so not exactly "in the fire".

I would not be leaving an epoxied stove unsupervised in any case.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I would be leery using it in a place that could leak, but not so much so with a baffle or side burn plate repair. Have you tried the high temp JB Weld?

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Yes, I would be leery using it in a place that could leak, but not so much so with a baffle or side burn plate repair. Have you tried the high temp JB Weld?

I have not tried it.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Wow. I can’t see that fix holding with the heat/cool cycles of a stove. It reminds me of the things I’d try to fix exhaust leaks on my car when I was in high school and college. They didn’t work long, but when they failed the exhaust didn’t push into the house.

To be fair, the stove should be at negative pressure during most of the burn cycle. It’s only at the end when CO may start leaking out. Make sure you have good monitors!

 

[bholler]

Guys it really doesn't matter if the stove is fixed. The setup is still unsafe.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Guys it really doesn't matter if the stove is fixed the setup is still unsafe

I know. It's just good info to have in a thread in case someone searches it in the future.

 

[handwedge]

Wondering if anyone on this feed has heard about any new wood stoves hitting the market with smaller clearance requirements than the

MORSØ 6148 B ON PEDESTAL (which is 10" to side, 3" to rear, 5" to corner).​

Thanks!

 

[Echo Parking Lot]

Wondering if anyone on this feed has heard about any new wood stoves hitting the market with smaller clearance requirements than the

MORSØ 6148 B ON PEDESTAL (which is 10" to side, 3" to rear, 5" to corner).​

Thanks!

Also wondering about this stove. My parents are considering installing one in their small home and curious to hear if anyone here has experience with it.