Looking for Fisher stove part

[WVJeff]

I'm having a lot of trouble getting Stove Pipe connected to the back of my Fisher Grandpa Bear Stove. I was told that there's a FLANGE that goes on the back of this free standing stove & then the stove pipe connects to the Flange. Obviously this stove doesn't have the Flange that came with it whenever it was bought new. Does anyone have a suggestion or know where I can get the Flange?

 

[coaly]

A flange is a fitting with bolt holes that bolts to something, like where a railing mounts onto a house. No 'flange" used in the stove industry to connect stove pipe.
The stove should have a steel pipe welded onto the back that sticks out. That is the outlet pipe welded to the stove and the only Fisher part for exhaust.
Are you going straight up with an elbow into connector pipe or sideways through a wall into a metal chimney?
What Series Grandpa is this? Angle iron corners with flat top doors or Series III with arched top doors?
The early model has 8 inch OD pipe which is about 7 1/2 inch ID. You have to over-crimp the pipe to make it smaller to fit. That is normal with all older stoves.
Later models use pipe made to fit stove pipe which is made 8 inch ID.

 

[WVJeff]

A flange is a fitting with bolt holes that bolts to something, like where a railing mounts onto a house. No 'flange" used in the stove industry to connect stove pipe.
The stove should have a steel pipe welded onto the back that sticks out. That is the outlet pipe welded to the stove and the only Fisher part for exhaust.
Are you going straight up with an elbow into connector pipe or sideways through a wall into a metal chimney?
What Series Grandpa is this? Angle iron corners with flat top doors or Series III with arched top doors?
The early model has 8 inch OD pipe which is about 7 1/2 inch ID. You have to over-crimp the pipe to make it smaller to fit. That is normal with all older stoves.
Later models use pipe made to fit stove pipe which is made 8 inch ID.

Not sure which series Fisher this is. I bought the Stove from an older fella last weekend. He said he was too old to cut firewood now so he purchased a Pellet stove. He offered it to me for $300 so I took it off his hands. It does have a steel pipe welded in the back of it with an OD of 8". The legs do look like angle iron with silver feet. The top of the doors are flat. When I hook up the stove I'll be going straight up with an elbow into a thimble in my Basement wall. Over-crimp? Could I get a fitting made at local metal fabrication shop that would accommodate my stove pipe? Maybe they could over-crimp the piece that they make for me?

 

[coaly]

You should have your own hand crimping tool since many times when you cut a piece of stove pipe you need to crimp one end. Then you can crimp a factory male end smaller by squeezing it down more.
If you go straight up, the side of a Tee will slip over the pipe on the stove. Then cap the bottom for condensate to drip into to evaporate. By the time you buy a Tee and cap, you can buy a hand crimper that you'll need sooner or later anyway.
The harder you squeeze, the more crimp, and the smaller the pipe or elbow gets. You'll learn to bend outward while crimping to avoid the pipe getting funnel shaped - sort of keeps the crimped end parallel with the pipe.

You have the first design of the stove. They added optional shields to the prints in 1977 adding a Roman Numeral II for the shielded version, and for 1979 started optional arched top doors. They were designated III. 1980 dropped the old doors like yours and were also available with glass called the IV. The outlet pipe was made for the stove industry to fit connector pipe for the 1980 year stoves. You have one before pipe was made for the 8 inch ID needed to fit connector pipe.

 

[WVJeff]

You should have your own hand crimping tool since many times when you cut a piece of stove pipe you need to crimp one end. Then you can crimp a factory male end smaller by squeezing it down more.
If you go straight up, the side of a Tee will slip over the pipe on the stove. Then cap the bottom for condensate to drip into to evaporate. By the time you buy a Tee and cap, you can buy a hand crimper that you'll need sooner or later anyway.
The harder you squeeze, the more crimp, and the smaller the pipe or elbow gets. You'll learn to bend outward while crimping to avoid the pipe getting funnel shaped - sort of keeps the crimped end parallel with the pipe.

You have the first design of the stove. They added optional shields to the prints in 1977 adding a Roman Numeral II for the shielded version, and for 1979 started optional arched top doors. They were designated III. 1980 dropped the old doors like yours and were also available with glass called the IV. The outlet pipe was made for the stove industry to fit connector pipe for the 1980 year stoves. You have one before pipe was made for the 8 inch ID needed to fit connector pipe.

View attachment 190558

Thanks for all the info on my Stove & what I should do to get it set up. It was a BIG help! I'll be going on Monday & getting a Crimping tool & some pipe. I also have another double door Fisher stove that I bought 5 yrs ago & that I currently use. It's not quite as wide (27 3/4 across the top) as the one we have been discussing & the exhaust pipe comes out of the top instead of the back like the other one.. Also, It came with a fitting on top that my 8" pipe slipped right over very easily. It was a breeze to set up & start using. It has the same type of legs & doors on it as the other stove but the trees on the door are painted silver. this stove looked like it had hardly been used when I got it. It's obvious that I don't know anything about these stoves but,, did they put a # or serial # on them that tells YEAR, series/model of them

 

[coaly]

Serial numbers started with UL tags. Only UL Listed stoves (not yours) will be dated.
Some fabricators stamped, others wrote in weld on the bottom a "stove number" in order of fabrication.
Most had their own way of marking for warranty purposes.
I can tell you the year or very close with pictures of the front by the spring handles and draft caps among other things. Leg style (taper or angle) helps identify where the stove came from as well as weld around vent pipe. Each fabricator had their own way of doing things that I've documented over time.

The first double door stoves were Bicentennial with '76 on the right front door in a star. Early 1977 still had the star with no '76 on the star. These use a round door seal rod instead of flat channel iron found on all later stoves. In 1977 optional bolt on shields were added to revised drawings sent to fabricators. Shields were added when not used on a non-combustible hearth. This designated them as a II. 1979 started optional "Cathedral" arched top doors along with the old style flat tops. These were designated III. They are not marked on the stove, but the drawings show the Roman Numerals as well as the manuals. 1980 discontinued the flat top doors. 1980 also started a new design for the box, eliminating the angle iron corners. These stoves had bent corners and were the UL Listed stoves with integral shields that could not be removed. The double door UL Listed III stoves also incorporated the Smoke Shelf Baffle. (The single door stoves were not III, they were VI due to glass double door version being IV). There was no V. What makes it confusing is many fabricators continued to make the old style Un-Listed style for $100 cheaper for use on non-combustible hearth where a shielded UL Listed stove wasn't necessary. So you go by the door style to confirm before or after 1980 when you have angle iron corners. Before 1980 were many changes to springs, draft caps and door handles to date them, after 1980 the caps, springs and handles on the arched top doors stayed the same, so are not capable of dating unless someone has a receipt or it is a PA stove that was numbered on the bottom since the original customer list still exists at the existing Fisher Stove Factory Showroom in Factoryville PA.

Also look for an "H" stamped on the front and center of ash fender channel iron trim.

The first post of this thread gives more details of the changes listed above;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-grandma-and-grandpa-bear-details-fireplace-series.69448/

 

[WVJeff]

Serial numbers started with UL tags. Only UL Listed stoves (not yours) will be dated.
Some fabricators stamped, others wrote in weld on the bottom a "stove number" in order of fabrication.
Most had their own way of marking for warranty purposes.
I can tell you the year or very close with pictures of the front by the spring handles and draft caps among other things. Leg style (taper or angle) helps identify where the stove came from as well as weld around vent pipe. Each fabricator had their own way of doing things that I've documented over time.

The first double door stoves were Bicentennial with '76 on the right front door in a star. Early 1977 still had the star with no '76 on the star. These use a round door seal rod instead of flat channel iron found on all later stoves. In 1977 optional bolt on shields were added to revised drawings sent to fabricators. Shields were added when not used on a non-combustible hearth. This designated them as a II. 1979 started optional "Cathedral" arched top doors along with the old style flat tops. These were designated III. They are not marked on the stove, but the drawings show the Roman Numerals as well as the manuals. 1980 discontinued the flat top doors. 1980 also started a new design for the box, eliminating the angle iron corners. These stoves had bent corners and were the UL Listed stoves with integral shields that could not be removed. The double door UL Listed III stoves also incorporated the Smoke Shelf Baffle. (The single door stoves were not III, they were VI due to glass double door version being IV). There was no V. What makes it confusing is many fabricators continued to make the old style Un-Listed style for $100 cheaper for use on non-combustible hearth where a shielded UL Listed stove wasn't necessary. So you go by the door style to confirm before or after 1980 when you have angle iron corners. Before 1980 were many changes to springs, draft caps and door handles to date them, after 1980 the caps, springs and handles on the arched top doors stayed the same, so are not capable of dating unless someone has a receipt or it is a PA stove that was numbered on the bottom since the original customer list still exists at the existing Fisher Stove Factory Showroom in Factoryville PA.

Also look for an "H" stamped on the front and center of ash fender channel iron trim.

The first post of this thread gives more details of the changes listed above;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-grandma-and-grandpa-bear-details-fireplace-series.69448/

 

[WVJeff]

Serial numbers started with UL tags. Only UL Listed stoves (not yours) will be dated.
Some fabricators stamped, others wrote in weld on the bottom a "stove number" in order of fabrication.
Most had their own way of marking for warranty purposes.
I can tell you the year or very close with pictures of the front by the spring handles and draft caps among other things. Leg style (taper or angle) helps identify where the stove came from as well as weld around vent pipe. Each fabricator had their own way of doing things that I've documented over time.

The first double door stoves were Bicentennial with '76 on the right front door in a star. Early 1977 still had the star with no '76 on the star. These use a round door seal rod instead of flat channel iron found on all later stoves. In 1977 optional bolt on shields were added to revised drawings sent to fabricators. Shields were added when not used on a non-combustible hearth. This designated them as a II. 1979 started optional "Cathedral" arched top doors along with the old style flat tops. These were designated III. They are not marked on the stove, but the drawings show the Roman Numerals as well as the manuals. 1980 discontinued the flat top doors. 1980 also started a new design for the box, eliminating the angle iron corners. These stoves had bent corners and were the UL Listed stoves with integral shields that could not be removed. The double door UL Listed III stoves also incorporated the Smoke Shelf Baffle. (The single door stoves were not III, they were VI due to glass double door version being IV). There was no V. What makes it confusing is many fabricators continued to make the old style Un-Listed style for $100 cheaper for use on non-combustible hearth where a shielded UL Listed stove wasn't necessary. So you go by the door style to confirm before or after 1980 when you have angle iron corners. Before 1980 were many changes to springs, draft caps and door handles to date them, after 1980 the caps, springs and handles on the arched top doors stayed the same, so are not capable of dating unless someone has a receipt or it is a PA stove that was numbered on the bottom since the original customer list still exists at the existing Fisher Stove Factory Showroom in Factoryville PA.

Also look for an "H" stamped on the front and center of ash fender channel iron trim.

The first post of this thread gives more details of the changes listed above;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-grandma-and-grandpa-bear-details-fireplace-series.69448/

 

[WVJeff]

The stove we've been discussing does have Stars on the doors. I'll upload some pics tomorrow for you to review. Also, i'll go back and read all the info you gave me in the previous post. Thanks again!