Looking for Top Loading Woodstove

[ozark]

I'm looking to replace my old worn out VC Vigilant and prefer a non-cat cast iron toploader that will heat a rougly 2,000 sq foot house. It seems as if the choices are limited to Lopi Leyden/Avalon Arbor, VC Encore and Harman Oakwood. After reading as much as I can on these forums, I'm turned off to VC due to quality concerns and the Lopi/Avalon downdraft system sounds like more trouble than it's worth. That leaves the Harman Oakwood. Comments? Am I overlooking something? Thanks.

Dan

 

[begreen]

Welcome. Ozark in Katonah, that's a big jump.

The Oakwood is a downdraft too, though it seems to be a good stove. I'd add the Quadrafire Isle Royale to your list. It's a big, 3 cu ft. top loader, not downdraft, that had some happy owners here. Good looking stove too.

 

[branchburner]

I have a Harman Oakwood. But if you've ruled out the Leyden, this is basically a similar downdraft stove. I had no idea what downdraft was when I started shopping. I wanted a top-loader w/ a decent-sized firebox and chose this over the Lopi due to great reviews on this site and the top-grill option (for years I've been grilling all winter long in the open fireplace - it's the only way I'll cook a steak!).

I've read the pros and cons of cats and non-cats (and downdraft non-cats) and it seems whatever stove you get will take a little time and effort to get used to, and to get running smoothly with confidence. But it's all good! My brother has a VC cat and loves it. I thought, no, too much work. It's funny, because I chose a non-cat thinking it would be a load-it-and-walk-away type of deal. No, no, no - but now I find I'm really looking forward to playing the downdraft game this winter.

I wanted to buy the Oakwood new but was told no way, nothing til 2009. I wanted the Oakwood. So I got mine used (not recommended, by the way) from a guy who was trying unsuccesfully to heat 2000 sq ft. At some point he damaged the combustion package, but he wasn't happy with the heat output even before that. Now I don't know how dry his wood was, or how good his venting was, or anything else, but I'm taking a gamble that it wasn't the stove's fault. I've only used it in mild weather, and time will tell, but I love it so far. First time since I was a kid that I can't wait for it to get cold!

 

[ozark]

Thanks to both of you. Will check out the Harman. It looks like the Quadrafire is not currently available in my neck of the woods but will consider it if I end up waiting 'til next year to replace my old beater.

 

[N/A N/A]

That Harman is an animal! I got the TL 300 its bigger half brother. Check the TL 300 out its a steel stove were as the Oakwood is cast but I liked the features of the 300. Both great stoves.

 

[Dill]

I went from a vigilant to a Harman. Very happy with the change. To me the oakwood is like an updated version of the vigilant. With better glass. But without the V/C auto air control. My parents' also have a vigilant, which they had rebuilt last winter rather than replace it. New gaskets etc, just a thought.

 

[MishMouse]

Last week I had the stove around 1/3 - 1/2 full of hot coals (burning 24-7 for 3 days prior) added wood to the top, got her burning, set it into afterburn. Stovetop stayed between 400-500 for at least 14 hours on first notch. After 17 hours it was below 300. Added more wood at that point and it took off again for another 12.

Also during this time I cooked up a 10oz Porterhouse on its grill.
Tonight I will grill up some shrimp.

Last year I was grilling burgers when it was -20 and 2 feet of snow on the ground.

I am very happy with this stove.

 

[ozark]

For those with the Harman, how much of a difference is it going to make to deal with the downdraft design when it comes to ease of use? Is it something that will really make much difference in terms of getting it going? I tend not to burn 24/7 most of the time. Thanks.

Dan

 

[MishMouse]

Downdraft designs at lest how my TL-300 works is you have the get the whole system (Stove and Pipe) hot enough to maintain the flow of air. They work the best when it is colder outside. The warmer it is outside the hotter you need to get the stove in order for it to run properly. Also seasoned wood is a must to get the best performance.

 

[stanleyjohn]

I have the harman wood insert which is like the TL300 and i think that the downdraft design will take longer to get the secondary burn going than the top tubes design.I think the advantage of the downdraft stove is longer burn times once the fire and hot coals are well established vs the tube type stove.From what i have read!the oakwood would be a great choice for a top loaded downdraft stove.I bought the insert because of space limitations and so far have not regreted the desision.When burnning it keeps most of my 1600 sqft colonial in the toasty mid to upper 70s.

 

[MikePelletier]

Greetings!

I picked up a Harman TL300 this past summer to replace a cookstove I had in my cellar. It was cold enough recently to fire it up for the first time. What a nice unit. Even on the next to lowest setting it producing enough heat to easily heat my house. I plan to make one modification, though. I bought it with the fan. The fan has a rheostat to control the speed, but nothing to shut it off if the fire goes out. I plan to attach a small metal box to the back of the heat exchanger and install a fan control switch like they have in hot air furnaces. That way, I can set the stove temperature I want the fan to come on at. It seems like it would make more sense than blowing air around a cold stove. Has anyone else done this yet? If not, I'll post part numbers and pics when I'm through.

Cheers,

Mike Pelletier

 

[N/A N/A]

Greetings!

I picked up a Harman TL300 this past summer to replace a cookstove I had in my cellar. It was cold enough recently to fire it up for the first time. What a nice unit. Even on the next to lowest setting it producing enough heat to easily heat my house. I plan to make one modification, though. I bought it with the fan. The fan has a rheostat to control the speed, but nothing to shut it off if the fire goes out. I plan to attach a small metal box to the back of the heat exchanger and install a fan control switch like they have in hot air furnaces. That way, I can set the stove temperature I want the fan to come on at. It seems like it would make more sense than blowing air around a cold stove. Has anyone else done this yet? If not, I'll post part numbers and pics when I'm through.

Cheers,

Mike Pelletier

That is interesting though. I would like to know more about your project when completed.

 

[MishMouse]

I also would be interested.

 

[stanleyjohn]

ditto on the above

 

[Baron62]

I have the Quad Royale and it is a great heater so far. I have it located in my kitchen which is near the center of my house and it heats the 2400 square foot house nicely. I recently upgraded from a VC Intrepid with a small 1.25 firebox to a 3.0 firebox on the Royale. This thing rocks. Burns up to 12 hours with a full load and it is very controllable. I start fires in it topdown and then leave it for 6 hours or more. No more constant feeding like the small stove. It is a top loader but you basically don't have to feed it often. I must admit that when she is cranking, I actually avoid top feeding beacuse it is too hot to approach on top. The front double doors work great too and let you load the 22 inch logs. The reburn system makes this thing easy on wood too.

 

[MadTripper]

Greetings!

I picked up a Harman TL300 this past summer to replace a cookstove I had in my cellar. It was cold enough recently to fire it up for the first time. What a nice unit. Even on the next to lowest setting it producing enough heat to easily heat my house. I plan to make one modification, though. I bought it with the fan. The fan has a rheostat to control the speed, but nothing to shut it off if the fire goes out. I plan to attach a small metal box to the back of the heat exchanger and install a fan control switch like they have in hot air furnaces. That way, I can set the stove temperature I want the fan to come on at. It seems like it would make more sense than blowing air around a cold stove. Has anyone else done this yet? If not, I'll post part numbers and pics when I'm through.

Cheers,

Mike Pelletier

I have a stove that was made by a local guy that has a forced air blower and a forced draft as well as two draft dials and one dial on the bottom of the stove. I just put a wiring diagram together for controlling the hot air via a thermostat upstairs (Stove is in the basement) and a stack temp sensor. I am also putting a stack temp switch on for the forced draft. I know I have the schematic at work but here are the basics.

You can probably use a power transformer from some item you threw out. I save all of ours and plan on using a 12 to 24 volt DC unit. RadioShack carries relays for about 10 or so dollars. You want one that will work with whatever low voltage you choose and of course also handles the current required on the 110 side for your blower. If you want to use a thermostat, put that in series with your stack thermostat. By doing so, your blower will only kick on when the space needs heat and the stack temperature is above X amount. In my case, my forced draft will have a timer which will blow air for 2 minutes or so and if the stack temp doesn't rise, the blower goes into lockout until I reload the fire and clear it.

Keep in mind I haven't had time to set this up and there are a few variables to play with. I did build a central vac system for my wife using a similar setup and a shop vac which works great.

Edit: I took a few minutes and drew this up in mspaint. Hope it helps!

Tripper

 

[MikePelletier]

Hi Tripper!

I think the only part of your diagram that I'm using is the relay for the fan.
Surplus Sales has surface mount bi-metal switches that can be pop-riveted
to the external skin of the air duct. I plan to attach a metal box to the side
to cover the switch and hi-temp wires. I'll just switch the neutral lead of the
fan motor. Please note that I'm open to any and all comments & questions.
If someone has a better idea, let's have it. We're smarter as a group than
as individuals.

Here is the link, followed by the specs.

Link to Surplus Sales: http://www.surplussales.com/Thermal/Thermal-1.html
Scroll down a few rows and it's the switch on the left.

Part number: (SWH) E95C
Surface Mount Thermal Switch
95ºC (170ºF) - Normally Open
Elmwood Sensors surface mount thermal switch. 95ºC (170ºF), normally open.
Closes on increased temperature. 15/16" c-c mounting holes. $10 each.

I've ordered it. Once it comes in I'll install and post pics.

Have a great day.

Mike

 

[MikePelletier]

One more thing.....

I'm not suggesting for even a second that anyone else try this. I'm planning to do this
on my stove and have thrown it out there for public comment/input. I assume liability
only for what I do to my own stove. If someone wants to do this on their appliance(s),
they should either have a professional do it or make sure that all of their modifications
are in compliance with local codes. Either way, I don't want to be responsible for what
someone else does. (How's that for CYA?)

Thanks,

Mike

 

[MikePelletier]

After all was said and done, I ended up using a Honeywell fan control/limit switch.
Looking at the parts list and the exploded view, it was difficult to determine how
much room I had inside the hot air plenum for the switch probe. I drilled a small
hole in the top section and determined that a 5" switch would work, as long as I
installed it at an angle. I cut a 5/8 hole (I had to file it out to accommodate the
angle I wanted to maintain). I made a bracket to hold it in at the correct angle.
It's not so much that I wanted to be fussy about it, I just didn't want it to rattle.
I didn't use the "limit" portion of the switch, just the fan control with "ON" set at
160 or so, and "off" set to 120. I used a small piece of BX to run the wires down
to the "handy box" on the fan. The "hot" AC lead went to the rheostat so I switched
the neutral side. It works pretty well. Nice thing about this switch is the ability to
just switch it to manual if I want. Here are a couple pics. If anyone has questions,
ask away. As you can see, it wasn't a new switch, but it was free... Free is good!

Thanks,

Mike Pelletier

 

[MikePelletier]

Doesn't it just figure?

I was speaking with my brother-in-law who owns a stove shop in Lancaster, NH. I told him about the switch
I'd installed to run the fan only when the temperature of the stove made it worthwhile. He smiles and told
me about the FT-1 magnetically mounted temperature sensor/switch..... Apparently it mounts to any metal
part of the stove and will control the fan. So much for my best efforts. I wish I'd checked sooner.

I couldn't find any information on the internet for it, but from what my brother in law says, it's available for
about $75. Sounds like a deal to me!

 

[MadTripper]

Nah, it's more fun to build your own stuff anyways. I still have to put mine together but it won't be long. Besides, what would I do with all that down time if I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel!

Tripper

 

[mikepinto65]

I went from a vigilant to a Harman. Very happy with the change. To me the oakwood is like an updated version of the vigilant. With better glass. But without the V/C auto air control. My parents' also have a vigilant, which they had rebuilt last winter rather than replace it. New gaskets etc, just a thought.

I was looking at the oakwoods just for fun, those grill tops look sweet!

 

[MikePelletier]

Hey Tripper...

For sure... But that's because we're tinkerers at heart...

 

[N/A N/A]

I went from a vigilant to a Harman. Very happy with the change. To me the oakwood is like an updated version of the vigilant. With better glass. But without the V/C auto air control. My parents' also have a vigilant, which they had rebuilt last winter rather than replace it. New gaskets etc, just a thought.

I was looking at the oakwoods just for fun, those grill tops look sweet!

Oh the grill tops are sweet...The food tastes much better than even off my charcoal grill. I guess its the wood.