I seriously hope you are kidding.I can't find a 10" to 6" reducer.
There is a whole lot more to it than thatMy humble belief is that surface area is the key to heat
Sorry guys but surface area is one tiny part of itAnd yes surface area is key.
Again are you seriously thinking of trying to reduce a 10" vent down to 6" there is no way whatsoever that that will work rightOne I got has 10" flue, it's a monster. I can't find a 10" to 6" reducer
Again are you seriously thinking of trying to reduce a 10" vent down to 6" there is no way whatsoever that that will work right
I believe it was located in Copemish , MI. The only downfall with these stoves is the 10'' flue collar. I ' ve heard of someone actually torching the 10 '' collar out, welding the back shut and putting a 8 '' flue collar out of the top of the stove.One I got has 10" flue, it's a monster. I can't find a 10" to 6" reducer. My humble belief is that surface area is the key to heat unless your trying to burn wet newspapers. This xl has the stainless screen too.
Ok as far as old stoves go fishers are pretty well designed. If they put a 10" collar on there is is because the box needs a 10" vent. It does not matter if you reduce it with a reducer or by changing the collar it wont work right. You will most likly get smoke back lots of other problems.The only downfall with these stoves is the 10'' flue collar. I ' ve heard of someone actually torching the 10 '' collar out, welding the back shut and putting a 8 '' flue collar out of the top of the stove.
Ok reducing by 2" for one is against code in most areas and by reducing that much you are reducing the volume so much chances are it wont work. Yes the velocity will increase but not enough to compensate. I am not being a buzz kill i am being realistic i have been doing this a long time and have worked on allot of stoves most of the time reducing by 2" does not turn out well. And he origonally was talking about going to 6" from 10" which there is no way that will work. According to coaly on another thread going down to 8" will probably work with xls but down to 6 no way They also make magic heat creosote factories and draft inducer fans an all kinds of stuff that has no place in a wood stove chimney either. I am curious what space this monster is going into?They don't make reducers for nothing. Don't be a buzz kill
I know the guy in Copemish who I believe made this stove...He's still around actually..Copemish MI is a really small town....gave me tips on the Fisher I hooked up tonight...old, old thread...don't know if anyone is around who really cares about it anymore....I believe it was located in Copemish , MI. The only downfall with these stoves is the 10'' flue collar. I ' ve heard of someone actually torching the 10 '' collar out, welding the back shut and putting a 8 '' flue collar out of the top of the stove.
good luck with that lolIf a guy was to move one of these XL behemoths with a appliance dolly, would putting the dolly underneath the stove be OK? I have to get one out of a basement with minimal manpower and noticed some kind of heat shield. Thinking about putting a piece of 2 x 6 on the bottom of the dolly lip and putting the back legs on 2 x 6 then strapping to cart and carrying with back of stove to face of cart. Got a wide set of stairs going for me on this move. I would if the right guys were available just strap the bugger and carry it up the stairs but, my A teams not available.
Yeah cook stoves are a real pain to move because of the shape they just dont fit on the stove cart right and good ones are really pushing the 800 pound limit on ours. We usually end up doing similar to what you did building ramps and dollys ectHere's an 800 lb Kitchen Queen on special built pallet that I put pipe rollers under the "rails". 3/4 plywood on uneven ground at bottom of ramp. Pipe rollers are not in picture, but the winch is on the lef
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