Lopi Liberty split exterior welds

[bushman]

I was looking at my Lopi Liberty last night thinking how much I resembles a Fisher and decided to take the side heat shields off to clean underneath. Noticed the spot welds along the rear seams which surprised me because I would have imagined them to be welded all along, then noticed the welds themselves were very shallow and were split.

The top plate is welded to the sides very nicely and presentable. Is this how they are put together with spot welds and should I have the welds repaired? I traded for this stove a couple years back and it was new then. My walls have heat shields and I am going to paint the sides of the stove so to leave the Lopi shields off.

Really not how I thought this stove was put together, it may be 100% sound solid manufacturing practice intended to be hidden behind the heat shields but seems a little skimpy and a easy way for air to get in. Unless there's welds inside or something this might be why my burns have been shorter than What I remember. New gaskets,sealed stove pipe,no cracks on baffle assembly that I have seen posted elsewhere.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don't know about the construction, but that weld looks porous...

 

[Highbeam]

I don't know about the construction, but that weld looks porous...

I could live with the porosity if the welder would have hit the mark. He just missed.

 

[Woody Stover]

I could live with the porosity if the welder would have hit the mark. He just missed.

Didn't hit the seam, did he?

 

[bushman]

That is what really bums me out, I had to take out an perfectly good Elm stove for insurance reasons and the Lopi was current UL & EPA certified and it's not the same quality. Going to buy some incense today and see if it's pulling air in through those corners. If so, I'm either going to go to Home Depot and get a NC30 or see if there's a Fisher on Craigslist. It seems I have had to fool with this Liberty a lot as of late, eating wood & running goofy. May be I'm goofy but, it's not like I am new to burning.

 

[bholler]

I would guess that there is a weld on the inside as well but i could be wrong. Lopi is a good manufacturer i doubt that the would build one that poorly.

 

[Highbeam]

My bk is fully welded on the inside. That lopi weld might just be to hold a heat shield and nothing to do with firebox seal.

The nc30 welds are pretty good, the rear heat shield is welded on with similar short skip welds like the lopi.

 

[bushman]

The stove is raw steel and I can see where the air channels are welded to the inside, along the edge where the spot welds are it looks as if they are it. May be not the case. Going to my local Lopi dealer to scope his new Liberty out. Once me and the stove cool down might push the firebricks up to check the corners for welds.

 

[webby3650]

That weld simply attaches the rear heat shield to the stove. To prevent you from removing it like you did the side shields.

 

[webby3650]

I'll trade you a Fisher for it. Of course, I'd have to put the shields back on it and clean that glass first thing!

 

[bushman]

Webby, just looked at the rear heat shield, it's welded to the back plate itself. The corners are cut and welded pieces, this is the rear plate of the stove. Looks like the rear plate is brake bent and becomes the bottom of the stove.

 

[webby3650]

Those are better pictures. Thanks.
That definaty looks like it could be an issue! Looks like rodrigo feel asleep while he was welding...

 

[Woody Stover]

If so, I'm either going to go to Home Depot and get a NC30 or see if there's a Fisher on Craigslist. It seems I have had to fool with this Liberty a lot as of late, eating wood & running goofy. May be I'm goofy but, it's not like I am new to burning.

I know the Liberty likes to run. You just have to hone your technique; These new stoves are a world apart from the old smoke-blowers. Keep reading here and you'll learn a lot, like I am. The tube-stove guys are more knowledgeable than I am about those stoves, but I do know that smaller splits, and less dense woods, will off-gas faster and give you a hotter stove. BTW, you may want the shields on if you want to produce more heated air to move around the house (convection.) If you just want to heat that area, then a more radiant output (no sides) might work. BTW, did you check to see if the inside of the box is welded?

 

[bushman]

I've used Pacific Energy Vista for about 8 years, went to coal for a few years, got an Elm which I regret having to change out for insurance and now the Liberty has ran good but this years been different. Covered all the usual bases regarding performance, now these welds seem like the bugger in the woodpile. I have a blower on this rig, was just cleaning out the cobwebs when I noticed the crappy welds.

 

[begreen]

How much would it cost to have it rewelded? Much less than a new stove? If so, that's what I think I'd do.

 

[bholler]

Covered all the usual bases regarding performance, now these welds seem like the bugger in the woodpile.

I think if the welds were a problem by the look of them they would have always caused a problem. Just look inside at those corners if they are leaving you will be able to see evidence of air washing in there

 

[rdust]

Welds look easy enough to clean up, shouldn't be difficult for someone with average welding skills. I'd be surprised if those welds are the ones sealing air. I think if the welds needed to seal the air they would run the full length. Pull the bricks and see what the inside looks like.

How hot do you run the stove, the discoloring in the sides surprises me. I had an Endeavor for 2 seasons, when I pulled the bricks to move it out of the house the steel didn't have have any bluing to it.

 

[Creekheat]

I welded for years. And those are chitty welds.

 

[bushman]

Well, I just might be over it. I did not pick this stove out, it was a trade for a Husqvarna Enduro and it was new in its shipping crate when I got it. Back then it was just a good trade and fit my needs. If I was to buy one then it probably would have been a Pacific Energy T5 or Summit. We burned the old Vista like a Salem Witch for 8 years and it's still in use today at my old house. I'm sure this is OK, it just kills my stoke.

 

[bholler]

I welded for years. And those are chitty welds.

They absolutely are with out a doubt But I am pretty sure if that was the only weld in those back corners there would would be pretty obvious air infiltration

 

[Oldman47]

My total welding experience is a single community college class using an acetylene torch. If I didn't lay a better penetrating bead than that I would have failed the course. That bead is terrible.

 

[bushman]

I have to run her as is for now. Here's some pictures inside at the corners,

 

[bholler]

i don't see any evidence of air wash in those back corners actually looks like a little crusty stuff in the corner but it is hard to see to really check it out you would have to pull the bricks. I do see evidence of air leaking around one of the tubes though.

 

[Woody Stover]

I've used Pacific Energy Vista for about 8 years...Covered all the usual bases regarding performance

OK, sounds like you've got plenty of experience. From my recent experiences with the Buck and now the Dutchwest, I'm paying a lot closer attention to the gaskets. I've found they have to be real tight to kill all the air leaks. I replace all the gaskets (6) in my SIL's Dutchwest, sealed the seams inside, then outside where I could easily get all of them. Now it appears I still have a very small leak in the ash pan gasket. It tested out good on the dollar-bill test but I suspect there is still a leak on the hinge side of the ash door. It can't be much, but enough to affect the burn...

 

[Woody Stover]

I do see evidence of air leaking around one of the tubes though.

That light-colored area where all the creo is burned off?