Lopi Patriot not burning properly

[PipNH]

Hi everyone,

I've been scouring this forum but can't find the answers I need.

I just moved into a new condo and it came with a Lopi Patriot (set up in my avatar). I was excited when I saw it because wood is better than oil any day of the week. My problem is that this is my first EPA stove and I can't get it to burn properly.

I grew up with an old Forester that my parent's replaced with a pellet stove a few years ago. The Forester now sits in our hunting camp. This is the first place I've lived with a wood stove other than my parents (I'm in my 20s) and I hate to admit it but it's getting the better of me.

I'm not having any trouble starting the fire, that much is at least is the same. The problem is that once the fire is lit it either peters out or burns through my wood with in an hour. I've been playing with the air control but there doesn't seem to be any difference between full open and half, or half open and ALMOST closed. Once the air is fully closed the fire dies right down and so does my head output.

Speaking of heat, I got a stove pipe thermometer out of curiosity and I can't get it above 400. Once it DOES get into the optimal burning zone it doesn't stay there for very long once the air is shut down.

I think my biggest problem with temperature is that I'm not getting a secondary burn. I was able to get reburn once, but I have no idea how I did it and therefore can't replicate it.

Since I've been burning wood for so long I have a good supply put away, some that's been stacked at my hunting camp for 10 years or more (under cover and bone dry). I don't have a moisture meter but I'm looking at buying one. I'd be shocked if that wood is above 20% moisture but I can't be sure.

I know these stoves take some practice and I'm sure I'll get the hang of it eventually but it's been really frustrating going from an old 'smoke dragon' that I can run with no problems to a high efficiency stove that I can hardly get to burn.

Any tips/tricks/ thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

Sounds like weak draft if the wood is for certain dry. How tall is the chimney? Are there any 90º turns in the flue path?

 

[kennyp2339]

Yes check your chimney to make sure its clean, look at the cap to make sure it isn't plugged, finally make sure your wood is dry, 10yrs split under cover means nothing, make sure its dried out with a moisture content below 20%

 

[SudsJeff]

Hi everyone,

I've been scouring this forum but can't find the answers I need.

I just moved into a new condo and it came with a Lopi Patriot (set up in my avatar). I was excited when I saw it because wood is better than oil any day of the week. My problem is that this is my first EPA stove and I can't get it to burn properly.

I grew up with an old Forester that my parent's replaced with a pellet stove a few years ago. The Forester now sits in our hunting camp. This is the first place I've lived with a wood stove other than my parents (I'm in my 20s) and I hate to admit it but it's getting the better of me.

I'm not having any trouble starting the fire, that much is at least is the same. The problem is that once the fire is lit it either peters out or burns through my wood with in an hour. I've been playing with the air control but there doesn't seem to be any difference between full open and half, or half open and ALMOST closed. Once the air is fully closed the fire dies right down and so does my head output.

Speaking of heat, I got a stove pipe thermometer out of curiosity and I can't get it above 400. Once it DOES get into the optimal burning zone it doesn't stay there for very long once the air is shut down.

I think my biggest problem with temperature is that I'm not getting a secondary burn. I was able to get reburn once, but I have no idea how I did it and therefore can't replicate it.

Since I've been burning wood for so long I have a good supply put away, some that's been stacked at my hunting camp for 10 years or more (under cover and bone dry). I don't have a moisture meter but I'm looking at buying one. I'd be shocked if that wood is above 20% moisture but I can't be sure.

I know these stoves take some practice and I'm sure I'll get the hang of it eventually but it's been really frustrating going from an old 'smoke dragon' that I can run with no problems to a high efficiency stove that I can hardly get to burn.

Any tips/tricks/ thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I'll echo the other posts. It sounds like a weak draft issue. Especially since adjusting you air valve doesnt do much to the fire. That time you got secondary burn was probably when you had a nice bed of coals and some ideally placed dry wood. With enough heat you will start to improve the draft, draw more air through that secondary air intake and get that secondary combustion. My EPA stove has a weak draft when cold (I have an exterior un insulated clay liner), and I need to get the a decent bed of coals before I can even close the door. slowly but surely things heat up, more wood gets added and draft improves.

 

[PipNH]

I don't know how tall the stove pipe is, but it sticks out about 4 feet from the roof and is taller than the peak of the roof. I live in an association and I think they require professional instalation so I would have to assume its not the pipe (no 90 degree turns).

I think maybe I'm not getting the stove hot enough to get a good draft, which is preventing me from burning hot, which is preventing me from getting a good draft. It's a vicious cycle.

 

[SudsJeff]

I think maybe I'm not getting the stove hot enough to get a good draft, which is preventing me from burning hot, which is preventing me from getting a good draft. It's a vicious cycle.

Your experience right now may be very different when it starts to get colder outside. Once the temperatures start to dip the pressure difference of those hot flue gases and cold outside air will increase your draft. Apparently this time of year (mild temp) is the busiest time for chimney sweeps getting calls about poor burning stoves and smelly downdraft.

 

[begreen]

I don't know how tall the stove pipe is, but it sticks out about 4 feet from the roof and is taller than the peak of the roof. I live in an association and I think they require professional instalation so I would have to assume its not the pipe (no 90 degree turns).

I think maybe I'm not getting the stove hot enough to get a good draft, which is preventing me from burning hot, which is preventing me from getting a good draft. It's a vicious cycle.

Too short flue is a common issue, that's why the ask. Is the flue height single story or more than one?