Lubricating Harman P68 or any other pellet stove

[miteclipse]

Hi,

Just wanted to get some input on what everyone does to oil/lubricate their stove. Searched on the forum and found a wide variety of information. Here is what I do. Always welcome to more tips. I'm hoping this could turn into good thread on that users can refer to

After vaccuming ash and cleaning, use 3-1 motor/bearing oil for the following:
-Place a few drops on the set screw and shaft for front part combustion blower (behind ash box). Place a few drops on the rear shaft of combustion blower and oil the bearing that rotats on the combustion blower.
-Place a drop of oil on set screw for distribution fan.


Clean fines box
-Add few drops to 2 bushings in fines box.
-Take spray graphite (bought from Napa), spray into auger and into rear of auger. Spray slide plate from underneath with the graphite as well.

Auger motor/housing
- A a drop to the round wheel that engages the slide plate as it turns.
- Place oil on Q-tip and go over auger motor shaft (where it connects to set screw) and where it spins on the motor.
- Few drops on auger bearing (behind set screw)
- Oil the fan that spins behind auger motor.

Auger
- Mix graphite with pellets and add once a month.
- Take spray graphite and spray a into the auger from the front.

ESP Probe
- Im going to remove for the first time ( I normally clean with a brush). Plan on using water/towel to clean it.

I will also take the air compressor and completing blow out behind the stove to remove dust. Also good to use it to blow out the igintor area.

 

[Peterfield]

Do you make house calls?

 

[scajjr2]

when you say mix graphite with the pellets is that the spray or some other form? Has no effect on the pellets burning?

Sam

 

[miteclipse]

when you say mix graphite with the pellets is that the spray or some other form? Has no effect on the pellets burning?

Sam

Powered graphite mix with the pellets. I have gotten the spray on the pellets before, they burned just fine.

 

[Cory S]

Dealer told me, do not lubricate anything. All bearings are sealed type, and using oil in places in the stove, could lead to gumming up of parts.

 

[wildbill]

I have been wondering about to oil or not, the sealed bearings I don't think would benefit from oil and the chance of fines getting built up on oil would wear out seals I would think, but it would be worth doing if not

 

[miteclipse]

I have been wondering about to oil or not, the sealed bearings I don't think would benefit from oil and the chance of fines getting built up on oil would wear out seals I would think, but it would be worth doing if not

You could do the spray graphite, (Napa/Liquid Wrench brand). That won't attract dust/fines.

 

[Tonyray]

The only lubricating I do is at end of season after full cleaning::..
I spray the burnpot and pretty much every wall in the stove with Pam Cooking spray to deter any rust from forming..AND put a box of DampRid
in the stove for summer.
don't really know about oiling motors in the P61A.

 

[Cincinnati Kid]

Hi,

Just wanted to get some input on what everyone does to oil/lubricate their stove. Searched on the forum and found a wide variety of information. Here is what I do. Always welcome to more tips. I'm hoping this could turn into good thread on that users can refer to

After vaccuming ash and cleaning, use 3-1 motor/bearing oil for the following:
-Place a few drops on the set screw and shaft for front part combustion blower (behind ash box). Place a few drops on the rear shaft of combustion blower and oil the bearing that rotats on the combustion blower.
-Place a drop of oil on set screw for distribution fan.


Clean fines box
-Add few drops to 2 bushings in fines box.
-Take spray graphite (bought from Napa), spray into auger and into rear of auger. Spray slide plate from underneath with the graphite as well.

Auger motor/housing
- A a drop to the round wheel that engages the slide plate as it turns.
- Place oil on Q-tip and go over auger motor shaft (where it connects to set screw) and where it spins on the motor.
- Few drops on auger bearing (behind set screw)
- Oil the fan that spins behind auger motor.

Auger
- Mix graphite with pellets and add once a month.
- Take spray graphite and spray a into the auger from the front.

ESP Probe
- Im going to remove for the first time ( I normally clean with a brush). Plan on using water/towel to clean it.

I will also take the air compressor and completing blow out behind the stove to remove dust. Also good to use it to blow out the igintor area.

When I had my two Whitfield stoves, the dealer recommended putting just a drop or two of transmission fluid in the combustion and distribution motors. He said do not to use a 3 in 1 oil.

 

[TStark]

Just do not spray graphite near a lit stove, the propellent is quite explosive

 

[FirepotPete]

AND put a box of DampRid

If anyone wants to save more money, you can make your own hillbilly dehumidifier using calcium chloride and a couple of plastic cups or ice cream buckets depending on how big an area. Nice thing about them is you can empty them and re-use them. Much, much cheaper and does the same thing.

 

[alternativeheat]

Two summers ago I did all the supposed correct steps to not get rust and got rust. The stove was all closed up and you could see where probably condensation built up inside the foolish thing and made rust streaks etc on the inside. I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened it up for winter use, it looked like we owned the thing for 20 years inside there. So last year I did absolutely nothing, didn't even clean the ash out from the last burn ( I had cleaned it only maybe 10 bags or so before shutting down for the season) and just left the main door cracked open for the summer and got 0 rust, and we had a humid Aug too. Just like I did with my coal stove for more than 35 years. That never rusted inside either and I never did a damned thing to it to prep it for summer hold over. Never again, you guys can pamper your stoves, squirt them down with the best magic juice or paint or what ever you wish. I'm just shutting mine down and crack the door a half inch and walk away.

 

[Edward Hughes]

Two summers ago I did all the supposed correct steps to not get rust and got rust. The stove was all closed up and you could see where probably condensation built up inside the foolish thing and made rust streaks etc on the inside. I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened it up for winter use, it looked like we owned the thing for 20 years inside there. So last year I did absolutely nothing, didn't even clean the ash out from the last burn ( I had cleaned it only maybe 10 bags or so before shutting down for the season) and just left the main door cracked open for the summer and got 0 rust, and we had a humid Aug too. Just like I did with my coal stove for more than 35 years. That never rusted inside either and I never did a damned thing to it to prep it for summer hold over. Never again, you guys can pamper your stoves, squirt them down with the best magic juice or paint or what ever you wish. I'm just shutting mine down and crack the door a half inch and walk away.

Have been doing the same for 22 years, and very little, if any rust, and usually full of Pellets.
After the summer, and the full cleaning for the winter, I do not vac any of the compartment covers, that allow any ash to
by pass the covers. Some of the covers, will not fit flush over the years of heat.
Thanks

 

[Chrisnow86]

I have rust proofing oil at my machine shop we use on parts I sprayed some in the fire box last spring and it worked awesome

 

[Bioburner]

Just do not spray graphite near a lit stove, the propellent is quite explosive

Your no fun