Well, it's at 40%. I have another LP heater feed from the same tanks, plus a cook stove, both are working normally.
I tried to light it today and the main burner lit, but only for about 15 seconds. Then both the main burner and pilot light went out. I was not able to get the pilot light re-lit, although I only tried a few times. I feel like there is a restriction in the gas feed somewhere, is there a filter or screen in the valve I can access? I'd prefer not to dissemble the valve, as I have no way to verify it's not leaking. It's the last device connected to a 1/2" line, about 25 feet from the tanks.
Perfect. The first photo is all I need.
There are three terminals on that block: TP-TH; TP; & TH.
TP = ThermoPile; TH = THermostat.
With the pilot lit & the burner switch to OFF,
set your multimeter to Volts DC & touch the tester probes
to the screws at TP-TH & TP.
What reading do you get?
I think you mean .29, correct?
If the millivolts are not holding steady, that thermopile may be on it's way out.
I'm thinkin one will cost about $60 or maybe a little more.
Depends on whether you go to a hearth shop or not.
It would be where I'd start.
If that's NOT the issue, you'll have a spare...
True Value carries Universal Millivolt Generators, or at least they USED to...
Good luck, & I'll be here if you need me...
I've installed the new Thermopile , but I'm getting almost the same results. The voltage is .59 with the pilot lit and the burner OFF. When I call for heat, the burner lights and the voltage starts dropping. This time it lasted about 30 seconds before everything shut off, around .24 volts. I repeated this process three times. The pilot flame is strong, wrapping part way around the thermopile.
I'm guessing .24 is below the operating voltage. Does this sound like the valve is pulling too much current?
Do you have a next step/idea, to get this stove up and running?
You have a SIT (or NovaSIT) gas valve. It can be checked for resistance with an ohmmeter,
but the specified operable range of Ohms would have to be looked up.
If you can find the correct numbers & the test says the valve is good,
Then I think I'd replace the entire pilot assembly.
Just for grins, can you post the wiring schematic from the manual?
I've looked, but I'm not able to locate the owners/service manual, so I don't have a wiring schematic to post. I've gone ahead and ordered a complete pilot assembly. If that doesn't correct the issue, the only thing left is the gas valve, correct? I really don't mind throwing parts at it, as it been in service for so long they are most likely close to end-of-life anyway.
Is your stove a bvent or direct vent? Does the pilot assembly have a thermo couple as well or just the thermo pile? Make sure the thermo pile leads are snug but dont over tighten. If you have a thermo couple make sure that is snug.
Thanks for the reply Furnace-To-Fireplace. I checked the vent and found a birds nest in the inlet... I cleaned it out and checked the stove. I saw the same result. The pilot and burner light, the flame looks normal and continues to look normal (I couldn't see any change), right up until it shuts off. It takes about 30 seconds, I hear a 'click' and the pilot and burner shut off.
The new pilot assembly arrived today. After I finished the install, the main burner lit, I thought it was fixed... but after a little over a minute, the burner and pilot shut off with a 'click'.
After writing the above text, I went back out to the stove to run through the process again, with my meter attached, to post the voltage measurements. With the pilot ON and the burner OFF, it was reading .6. After the burner lit, it started slowly dropping, down to .29, where it leveled off. The burner continued to stay lit. I allowed to to run for over an hour.
Do you guys feel it's fixed? I'm not sure why the first run with the new pilot assembly failed and the second time was successful.
I'm going to let it cool and later tonight re-start it.