Making a disposable saw, usable.

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SoutherWis

Member
Oct 19, 2012
30
I think I summed it up so well in the title, most of you probably already know what I'm going to ask. ;em

I did find this thread which answered my question about restoring a disposable saw back into something useful. But now I'm looking for more advice on the actual bar and chain.
I bought a Poulan Pro 35cc w 16" bar, and realized what I had done after the fact. Now I would like to try and turn it into something a little more useful with a 14'' bar and a regular (non safety) chain.

I've searched the web for a couple hours now and I'm wondering if it's just not even possible or am I misinterpreting something?
The saw is model number PP3516AVX which has a 3/8 pitch anti kickback chain, 50 Gauge with 56 DL's, and a low profile anti kickback bar.
I cannot seem to find a regular bar and a regular chain in 14" to fit this thing, to save my life. But I'm no pro either. What am I overlooking here?

Jim
 
(broken link removed to http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG)

[Hearth.com] Making a disposable saw, usable.

Once you have the bar you want and know how many drive links the combo requires, (looks to be 52) any shop worth your time should be able to custom cut a loop of your favorite chain to size. Unless of course they have something off-the-shelf that will fly.

You can even have loops of Stihl chain made up for that saw, which I would highly recommend. And you could mosey over to the new saws to drool a bit. ;)
 
Sis-in-law bought a similar Homelite 35cc saw, and after I tried cutting a nail that was in the tree branch I was working on>> , she had a new non-safety chain put on (14").
Local hardware made one up for her for about $10, and I took off the goofy bar nose safety bracket that made the thing almost useless.
It now cuts pretty well, and gets used for limbing and small trees.
 
Was in Lowes the other day and lifted up a Poulan 33cc 2-Cycle 14-in Gas Chain Saw, WOW , was heavy for a 33cc saw , looked at specs and it's
Power Head Weight (lbs.)10.8, Operating Weight (lbs.) 11.9
 
Change it out to a Picco Micro chain(Don't sure if it can be done)...3/8 0.50 even low pro would "NOT" be a very good way to go.
 
Was in Lowes the other day and lifted up a Poulan 33cc 2-Cycle 14-in Gas Chain Saw, WOW , was heavy for a 33cc saw , looked at specs and it's
Power Head Weight (lbs.)10.8, Operating Weight (lbs.) 11.9

I have a Poulan Pro 42/18". I don't want to sell it since it was a gift from my father but every time I go to use I can't believe how heavy and underpowered it is. Not to mention the vibes. And the muffler is so choked up it sounds like you are running a sewing machine.

I keep it running just because, but I think its best use would be a door stop or boat anchor. But it did serve its purpose as a backup saw for over 5 years without complaint. And someday it will be the perfect saw for my first porting attempt.
 
Change it out to a Picco Micro chain(Don't sure if it can be done)...3/8 0.50 even low pro would "NOT" be a very good way to go.

That would be the PMM3 (Picco Micro Mini) chain you're referring to. 3/8 Picco/Low-Pro .043 guage. I'd have to personally run the saw to be sure but it's an option I'd entertain as well.
 
(broken link removed to http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG)

View attachment 99201

Once you have the bar you want and know how many drive links the combo requires, (looks to be 52) any shop worth your time should be able to custom cut a loop of your favorite chain to size. Unless of course they have something off-the-shelf that will fly.

You can even have loops of Stihl chain made up for that saw, which I would highly recommend. And you could mosey over to the new saws to drool a bit. ;)

Thanks for the link MasterMech. I'm so green in the tricked out saw scene, I still got some questions.
How do you know how many DL's the combo requires? Granted the chart says 52, but...well...wait a sec...are all chain saw drive sprockets the same? If not, how do they know it requires 52 when they dont know what saw I have?....or are we talking sprocket swap too?

I'm thinking possibly the ProLite bar on that page you showed. the fourth one from the top. Would that be a good choice in your opinion?
By the way...I LOVE the gear drive timing shot for your avatar. Looks like an Edelbrock.
I had a 76 F150 I built a sleeper out of with a tricked out Boss 302 under the hood with an Edelbrock gear drive timing gear set on it. Loved IT!
In fact I put another gear drive in a 79 F150 that I put a bored and stroked 400 in. You could tromp it down at 60MPH and the passing gear would send that thing sideways! I miss that thing.
 
If not, how do they know it requires 52 when they dont know what saw I have?​

Assuming the saw has 3/8" low-pro chain on it, the chart is correct and a sprocket swap is unnecessary. They know what swap you have because I told them. ;)

By the way...I LOVE the gear drive timing shot for your avatar. Looks like an Edelbrock.​

Glad YOU like it, ;lol, but it's coming out of that motor. I had one in a 5.0 HO ('87 Mustang GT) that I loved. Unfortunately this one makes lots more noise (and it's a "quiet" drive) under the stamped steel timing cover on my big-block. (The Fords have a much thicker cast aluminum cover) You can hear some gear crunch and the idler assembly raps against the cover (as it should, but it's loud) when the engine idles. Pick it up off idle and it sounds great. But it's annoying the pi$$ outta me (and just sounds like crap to everyone else - <> ) and I've already got the true double roller chain set to go in it's place.

Makes a dandy avatar tho. ;)
 
Sounds good. Thanks again.
I'm going pick up the bar and ask the small engine guru in town if he can make me up a Stihl chain.
I'll be back ==c
 
You know, MasterMech... you CAN fit a 429 in an 87 Mustang. I built such a beast 20 years ago. Back then, there were no conversion kits, so everything was custom (mounts, headers, radiator, etc.), but I believe there are now. ;-)
 
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You know, MasterMech... you CAN fit a 429 in an 87 Mustang.

Big-Block in a 'stang would be a straight-line machine I imagine. ::-)

Besides, the 5.0L HO that comes in a Fox 'stang is a pretty good go-fast platform as-is. Hell you start out with a hyd. roller cam, forged pistons and an entirely decent fuel injection system. Not too shabby for a mid-80's pony car... ==c

What were we talking about again? ;lol
 
Big-Block in a 'stang would be a straight-line machine I imagine. ::-)

Besides, the 5.0L HO that comes in a Fox 'stang is a pretty good go-fast platform as-is. Hell you start out with a hyd. roller cam, forged pistons and an entirely decent fuel injection system. Not too shabby for a mid-80's pony car... ==c

What were we talking about again? ;lol

I think the idea was powering a Poulan chainsaw with a 429 engine . . . and making sure it has a Stihl chain on it. :)
 
I'm almost done with it, broke my chain, gotta get a replacement

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I'd think it would require more than 2 stout gentlemen to handle a big-block powered chainsaw. ::-)
 
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I'd think it would require more than 2 stout gentlemen to handle a big-block powered chainsaw. ::-)

I think Quads could handle it with no issues! . . . I miss hearing from him. I truly hope he's doing OK.
 
You could do what I did to my Pull-on
Drink a couple beers and mix a 2gallon can with 1 part oil - it should make it completely useless within a couple tanks
 
You know, MasterMech... you CAN fit a 429 in an 87 Mustang. I built such a beast 20 years ago. Back then, there were no conversion kits, so everything was custom (mounts, headers, radiator, etc.), but I believe there are now. ;-)

I had a 455 Olds shoehorned into an 88 firebird - it was a little nose heavy
 
Wellllllllll!
I visited the local saw shop. The guy agreed that a 16" bar was a bit much for this saw, so that saved me some discussion and grief.
I told him what bar I wanted after running through Oregon's Lookup API but he didnt have it. I told him I wanted to lose the safety chain too.

He asked me if I'd be interested in trying a PowerSharp bar and chain, other wise he'd just order out the Oregon bar and hook me up with a chain for it.
It kinda intrigued me, and since I wanted to do some cutting THAT DAY...I took him up on it. I dropped from a 16" to a 14" and lost the safety chain in the process.
I only bucked about 60 running feet of ASH that day 12 to 18 inches in diameter, but I gotta say I kinda like this thing so far. Granted I have NOTHING to compare it to besides the lofty PlaySkool safety chain.
I let my brother try it out. He's been cutting wood for 25 years, and has a saw just as old. I think it's Poulan 305. No chain break or nothing, all steel housing. He said he liked the way the PowerSharp on mine cut but he'd never own one. He says as aggressive as those teeth are if I ever hit a nail or a piece of barb wire it's gonna flip me ass over teat cups.;lol
I said not with a 35cc motor it wont.
Speaking of which, I noticed they dont sell these for saws over 50cc. I wonder if that why?
Anyone else use one of these? What are your thoughts?
(broken image removed)
 
Odd looking chain... rounded cutter, and still a safety bump behind each cutter? Not familiar with that one. I think I also spy a safety bump hiding behind each depth gauge, but it's hard to say from this photo.

In either case, 14" is much better on 35cc, than the 16" you were running. I wanted to swap my 35cc saw down to 12", but it came with 14", so I've been running that. It does okay with it.

They don't make what for saws over 50cc?
 
They don't sell the power sharp for over 50cc saws because these are for homeowners that can't/won't sharpen a chain.
It's a neat gimmick to sell some bars/chains I still doubt it'll cut like a freshly sharpened RSC chain with rakers dressed down a bit
 
Muffler surgery and a tune up next?
 
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