Making the right call?

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I'd leave the pellet stove as is/where is. Sounds as if it works fine down there. Even better if you insulate properly.

Put the new stove/insert upstairs. Perhaps the Drolet package that is very reasonable. Heating your upstairs from that basement arrangement is going to be a real challenge without significant alterations. I've had questionable success with a basement located stove in a much better configuration. If the pellet stove covers the basement your good.
I believe your back door, kitchen, living room and stove placement almost mimic my place to a T. Works great. My stove is actually in the corner nearest to where your stove would be. I load 3 or 4 days worth of splits in a vertical wood rack next to my hearth and have a couple cord outside the back door. I keep 2/3rds of a cord on the front porch and a cord in the basement for use during very cold snaps (no going out for wood). My 2 cents worth. Not to muddy the water......

This is great advice I needed, I’m sticking with the original plan to get an insert upstairs… but also stop the bleeding with insulating the basement.

I’m so happy begreen mentioned the Drolet. Wasnt even on my radar. I found the install thread on here that should work at my place perfectly. It’s a project but that’s why I bought this house. Have some questions yet I’ll have to post on a new thread.
 
My wife and I moved into a small, single-story brick home late last winter. It is just under 2,000 sq ft. About a thousand of finished living space on the first floor, with a basement the same square footage. Basement is unfinished, and the block walls are 7' to the floor joists.

The home is very poorly heated with electric baseboards, so we ran a Harman pellet stove in the basement to help supplement. It did help, but we did not get the heat transfer I was hoping for to the first floor.

We discussed putting a wood insert in the upstairs fireplace, but after a quote of $7k for the install, I am now considering venting the floors and putting something like a HearthStone Mansfield in the basement.

I like the idea of keeping the head/wood/mess in the basement, and I'm afraid the insert might have cooked us out anyway. Is the idea of a bigger/more efficient stove down there better thinking?
I just posted a question about getting my wood stove to vent to the rest of the house in our unfinished basement. We don't seem to get any heat transfer. No expert. Just saying I'm in a similar boat.
 
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I have basement stove and installed floor vent on opposite end. I only installed on vent so far because I already have gap around the steam pipes anyway. I also have box fan with a 20x20 x1 filter on low on first floor. I have temp gauges in each room so i can see where the cold air sits.

I would keep the pellet stove first then get wireless temp gauges and take the temps in the basement at the 4 corners of the room when the stove is running all day. like 5 feet up or near ceiling... Then cut one or two floor vents in opposite ends of basement 4x10 and in different rooms. Move the temp gauges near the floor vent but in the basement ceiling wall area. See if the house warms up and temp changes between initial readings and as you heat up. Add an electric heater to basement too just to see if bigger helps. Then Install a fan upstairs to pull the hot air up stairs and towards the vents. This will create a cycle of air movement. Without it the heat will just sit in basement. Blowing cold air down the stairs or putting a fan near the stairwell didn't work for me. Cold air is going to drop down the stairwell anyway...go sit at the bottom for a while. You need the warm return air to drop to the basement so the cycle continues..

Cutting the hole in the hardwood was difficult I used tape to keep the pieces from moving. Make sure you out from the wall enough or the jigsaw or other tool might not work.

If needed then start spending money. 7k does seam steep for chimney pipe and cap install.

If you do insulate then look at Dupont thermax and not the pink board (fire hazard). They recommend strapping on wall first vertically, but ive applied it to wall with adhesive then used rock wool in the stud bays . Id paint the walls first with BEHR waterproofing paint home depot. Helps keep moisture out. Some building inspectors will allow Thermax to be exposed to save on costs. Use the 2 inch or thicker if you can.

Hope this helps.
 
I just posted a question about getting my wood stove to vent to the rest of the house in our unfinished basement. We don't seem to get any heat transfer. No expert. Just saying I'm in a similar boat
I ended up sticking with the pellet stove in the basement, and putting an inset upstairs. Next step is to insulate the basement, then likely add vents.

Read your post, wish I could offer some help, but there are countless members much smarter than I that will be able to guide you in the right direction. My only bit of advice is to stick with it, and keep trying different things until something works.
 
I have basement stove and installed floor vent on opposite end. I only installed on vent so far because I already have gap around the steam pipes anyway. I also have box fan with a 20x20 x1 filter on low on first floor. I have temp gauges in each room so i can see where the cold air sits.

I would keep the pellet stove first then get wireless temp gauges and take the temps in the basement at the 4 corners of the room when the stove is running all day. like 5 feet up or near ceiling... Then cut one or two floor vents in opposite ends of basement 4x10 and in different rooms. Move the temp gauges near the floor vent but in the basement ceiling wall area. See if the house warms up and temp changes between initial readings and as you heat up. Add an electric heater to basement too just to see if bigger helps. Then Install a fan upstairs to pull the hot air up stairs and towards the vents. This will create a cycle of air movement. Without it the heat will just sit in basement. Blowing cold air down the stairs or putting a fan near the stairwell didn't work for me. Cold air is going to drop down the stairwell anyway...go sit at the bottom for a while. You need the warm return air to drop to the basement so the cycle continues..

Cutting the hole in the hardwood was difficult I used tape to keep the pieces from moving. Make sure you out from the wall enough or the jigsaw or other tool might not work.

If needed then start spending money. 7k does seam steep for chimney pipe and cap install.

If you do insulate then look at Dupont thermax and not the pink board (fire hazard). They recommend strapping on wall first vertically, but ive applied it to wall with adhesive then used rock wool in the stud bays . Id paint the walls first with BEHR waterproofing paint home depot. Helps keep moisture out. Some building inspectors will allow Thermax to be exposed to save on costs. Use the 2 inch or thicker if you can.

Hope this helps.
I ended up doing a DIY insert install. Was right around $2k, and am beyond pleased with the turnout (though did take much longer than anticipated haha!).

After the DIY install my pellet stove went out, I learned quick that I needed to give it a TON of TLC, which a member i found on here graciously guided me through.

Both are running great, and I'm well on the way to replacing my electric heat.

Next step is to insulate the basement and add floor vents, thank you for the Thermal advice!!!
 
I ended up doing a DIY insert install. Was right around $2k, and am beyond pleased with the turnout (though did take much longer than anticipated haha!).

After the DIY install my pellet stove went out, I learned quick that I needed to give it a TON of TLC, which a member i found on here graciously guided me through.

Both are running great, and I'm well on the way to replacing my electric heat.

Next step is to insulate the basement and add floor vents, thank you for the Thermal advice!!!
Sounds a if things worked out nicely. What insert and venting did you install?
 
Sounds a if things worked out nicely. What insert and venting did you install?
I went with the Drolet 1800i trio, as recommended by the forum here. Couldn’t be happier. Detailed it pretty well if you check out my different posts. Happy to answer any questions you may have.
 
If you are investing in insulation I would check my attic first to see that you are at least r38 (12") and preferably higher. Your 7' basement walls are telling me this is an older home like pre mid seventies . A basement only has a 15-20 degree differential between a comfortable interior temp and earth temp of 50-55 degrees . Not only that but all that concrete mass in the walls and floor acts as an excellent heat holder for when your stove might be down for a day or week etc. All that saved heat will radiate back into your home.
The free advice on here to insulate your walls and floor sounds like a
$30,000-$40,000 basement build out.....LOL

I definitely would check for air infiltration where the house meets the basement walls and caulk or foam fill any openings as a starting point as well.
 
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If you are investing in insulation I would check my attic first to see that you are at least r38 (12") and preferably higher. Your 7' basement walls are telling me this is an older home like pre mid seventies . A basement only has a 15-20 degree differential between a comfortable interior temp and earth temp of 50-55 degrees . Not only that but all that concrete mass in the walls and floor acts as an excellent heat holder for when your stove might be down for a day or week etc. All that saved heat will radiate back into your home.
The free advice on here to insulate your walls and floor sounds like a
$30,000-$40,000 basement build out.....LOL

I definitely would check for air infiltration where the house meets the basement walls and caulk or foam fill any openings as a starting point as well.
All of that is absolutely very good advice. Attic insulation is very important without a doubt. But the basement walls will still eat up a massive ammout of BTUs if they are uninsulated. And it will continue to radiate into the earth around the home. Thermal mass is great if it's contained. Attic insulation doesn't matter if the heat never gets there. And you are also absolutely correct about air sealing as well
 
All of that is absolutely very good advice. Attic insulation is very important without a doubt. But the basement walls will still eat up a massive ammout of BTUs if they are uninsulated. And it will continue to radiate into the earth around the home. Thermal mass is great if it's contained. Attic insulation doesn't matter if the heat never gets there. And you are also absolutely correct about air sealing as well
No disagreement but "insulating walls and floor" isn't a stand alone slap together proposition. It usually gets done when you finish your lower level (basement) which as we all know is a can of worms that doesn't simply mean gluing some foam to a wall or floor. Obviously electrical, plumbing (usually) and wall finishes come into play.
 
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If insulating is going to happen, I would add to not only seal near the basement wall, but sealing all top plates in the attic and all fixtures and chases that penetrate the ceiling to the attic - before further insulating the attic.
That is half the heat loss to the attic.
Moreover, it helps lessen the chimney action of the home that competes with the real chimney, especially for basement stoves, and especially for EPA basement stoves.
 
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No disagreement but "insulating walls and floor" isn't a stand alone slap together proposition. It usually gets done when you finish your lower level (basement) which as we all know is a can of worms that doesn't simply mean gluing some foam to a wall or floor. Obviously electrical, plumbing (usually) and wall finishes come into play.
I agree completely
 
If you are investing in insulation I would check my attic first to see that you are at least r38 (12") and preferably higher. Your 7' basement walls are telling me this is an older home like pre mid seventies . A basement only has a 15-20 degree differential between a comfortable interior temp and earth temp of 50-55 degrees . Not only that but all that concrete mass in the walls and floor acts as an excellent heat holder for when your stove might be down for a day or week etc. All that saved heat will radiate back into your home.
The free advice on here to insulate your walls and floor sounds like a
$30,000-$40,000 basement build out.....LOL

I definitely would check for air infiltration where the house meets the basement walls and caulk or foam fill any openings as a starting point as well.
It is a relatively older build, 1948. Though I think the attic will need some attention, it does have recent blown in insulation.

I have an issue where the basement meets the house. We definitely have some infiltration issues I need to address, just not sure the best way.
 
I went with the Drolet 1800i trio, as recommended by the forum here. Couldn’t be happier. Detailed it pretty well if you check out my different posts. Happy to answer any questions you may have.
Hello, curious how the drolet 1800i insert is working? I have Drolet Heat Commander Furnace in basement. Works ok. I thinki have overdraft issues and can only get 4-5 hour burn time, That is a different story... What kind of burn times are you getting on the 1800? Also, looking at BK princess but could total 6k. I don't want to spend more than necessary but also don't want to spend 3k and not be satisfied.