Manchester Install Questions

[diesel59]

Gang,

As mostly everyone else has said on here once, I've been lurking for quite some time reading and learning about what I like, what is required, what is preference, etc.

We have picked out the Hearthstone Manchester and are just waiting on the install. Well, the stove company came out and installed the hearth and wall "art" and now I have questions about the way I should/can have the pipe exit the stove and subsequently then the ceiling.

When the stove installers came out for the initial quote, I was told that we could take the double wall pipe out of the top of the stove about 8 ft, 45 it, take it over another 6 ft or so on an angle up (following the dormer ceiling line), 45 once more and then go straight out the ceiling. Now, all this being said, I know that any time you add angled pipe, you run the chance of causing draft issues. However, I would rather not have to run it straight up from this location, as this is on the front of our house and would probably have to be quite tall to get it past the peak of the roof like I understand that it needs to be.

Should I a) get over the fact that it needs to go straight up and hope that it does not become our focal point outside our b) move forward with the double 45s and hope that the runs allow for enough draft?



Thanks for helping with my (hopefully not stupid) questions.

 

[Rearscreen]

What a smart looking hearth! Oh and since I have owned that model in the past you certainly should be very happy as I was with it. Awesome stove. I own the Progress now. Always a compromise between techno and aesthetic. I'm usually inside my house and don't care what the neighbors think. I'm a straight up guy as much as possible and proud to show my stack.

 

[begreen]

It looks like there will be a fair amount of rise to the flue system. If it's over 18 ft total then I wouldn't worry too much about it having the 45's. Just be sure the diagonal run is no closer than 9" to the ceiling, well supported and screwed together at each joint.

 

[diesel59]

Rearscreen - I would think probably 8 ft or more (just guessing).

begreen - based on some rough measurements just now, it looks like I'll have almost 17ft inside the house (then whatever outside if that is counted as flue and not chimney). Still think I'll be okay?

 

[Rearscreen]

I'd go for the straight, easier to clean, better performance, and hey, let's not forget the intake...

 

[begreen]

Rearscreen - I would think probably 8 ft or more (just guessing).

begreen - based on some rough measurements just now, it looks like I'll have almost 17ft inside the house (then whatever outside if that is counted as flue and not chimney). Still think I'll be okay?

Straight up is definitely better. The long run is going to cool down the flue gases a lot. Double wall stove pipe doesn't insulate like chimney does. That said, we've seen it here before.

 

[diesel59]

Straight up is definitely better. The long run is going to cool down the flue gases a lot. Double wall stove pipe doesn't insulate like chimney does. That said, we've seen it here before.

View attachment 171285

begreen - I'm sure you've seen a lot done here before, but that doesn't mean you suggest doing it If at all possible, I should go straight up and deal with more stainless chimney cost and it's appearance/placement? In the end, the hearth is already there and I can't easily turn back.

 

[begreen]

Burn only fully seasoned dry wood and check the flue for build up on a regular basis.

 

[Woody Stover]

What a smart looking hearth!

That's what I was thinking too, but maybe we just have a thing for wood. For sure, I have a thing for the Manchester. Love the looks of that stove, and I always like to see another one comes on line. What finish did you decide on? Come back when you get it running and tell us how it does (and take more pics.)
Apparently the Manchester is an easy breather. Last time I looked, the manual called for only 10' of stack when a lot of other stoves want 15. I would guess you'll be OK especially since the chimney will exit near the peak. What do you estimate the total vertical run to be, from stove top to the top of the pipe? Actually, the turns might allow you to run the stove at a lower output when needed, than a tall, straight stack would on that stove.
My SIL's chimney has a 30-30 jog through a scissors truss at the top and I have to jam the brush firmly to get through, so as begreen said, make sure they brace it well. My poly brush fits pretty tight, though. If you will have pros cleaning the flue, they probably have multiple brushes one of which would go through easy.

 

[diesel59]

Burn only fully seasoned dry wood and check the flue for build up on a regular basis.

Have any suggestions for cleaning supplies with two 45s in play? I was doing some research and found some super flexible rods/brushes on ChimneyDirect, but wasn't sure if anyone had a go-to place where they ordered these cleaning supplies.

 

[begreen]

A Sooteater with extra rods will negotiate the 45s ok. I have a dual 45 offset and they do fine.

 

[Woody Stover]

Have any suggestions for cleaning supplies with two 45s in play? I was doing some research and found some super flexible rods/brushes

I've seen those flexible rods online but have never tried 'em. Sounds like you would be comfortable going on the roof, so I would give the rods and brush a try. I hovered over 'Forums' at the top of the page, clicked 'Search Forums,' typed in 'chimney rods brushes' and several links came up...

 

[diesel59]

That's what I was thinking too, but maybe we just have a thing for wood. For sure, I have a thing for the Manchester. Love the looks of that stove, and I always like to see another one comes on line. What finish did you decide on? Come back when you get it running and tell us how it does (and take more pics.)
Apparently the Manchester is an easy breather. Last time I looked, the manual called for only 10' of stack when a lot of other stoves want 15. I would guess you'll be OK especially since the chimney will exit near the peak. What do you estimate the total vertical run to be, from stove top to the top of the pipe? Actually, the turns might allow you to run the stove at a lower output when needed, than a tall, straight stack would on that stove.
My SIL's chimney has a 30-30 jog through a scissors truss at the top and I have to jam the brush firmly to get through, so as begreen said, make sure they brace it well. My poly brush fits pretty tight, though. If you will have pros cleaning the flue, they probably have multiple brushes one of which would go through easy.

We went with the matte black. I really liked the enamel, but I was worried about it chipping (and the wife liked the matte more for our house).

I will be honest and say that I am glad to hear you really like your Manchester, as I've read a number of horror stories on here about Hearthstone. Maybe another case of "my favorite pickup truck", but I've certainly seen more negative press than praise.

The total inside distance from stove top to the ceiling is approx 17 ft from what I measured quickly the other night. Not exactly sure how much stainless there will be on the outside yet, but I would guess we are looking at around 22ish total.

The installers come tomorrow, so here goes nothing....[emoji1]

I will keep you all up to date as I learn the stove and pass on my feedback.

 

[Woody Stover]

I am glad to hear you really like your Manchester

I like it but I don't have one. I've read a lot of the comments lately from owners that haven't had any problems, and really like it. I think they may have ironed out a few problems they had with the early production runs. Customer service is another question but I do my own work for the most part so that wouldn't affect me as much. Looking forward to your updates!

 

[diesel59]

It looks like there will be a fair amount of rise to the flue system. If it's over 18 ft total then I wouldn't worry too much about it having the 45's. Just be sure the diagonal run is no closer than 9" to the ceiling, well supported and screwed together at each joint.

@begreen - The installers are here and seem to be stumped on how to brace the flue and keep it 9" away from the ceiling. Any ideas that I can give them? If I take it straight up, they aren't going to have much to strap it to because of the dormer on the front of the house, so the angled approach might be the only way.

 

[diesel59]

I like it but I don't have one. I've read a lot of the comments lately from owners that haven't had any problems, and really like it. I think they may have ironed out a few problems they had with the early production runs. Customer service is another question but I do my own work for the most part so that wouldn't affect me as much. Looking forward to your updates!

Well, the stove is on the hearth, so we're making progress They are going to fabricate some longer brackets made out of the brackets shown below and attach them to the back wall. This seem okay? Hopefully these will work for keeping everything sturdy.

I will keep everyone up to date. Please keep your fingers crossed!

 

[diesel59]

Well, I often wondered if we would get here, but it seems as though the day for her maiden voyage has finally come. Now for the recommendations on breaking in our Manchester. I've read the manual and I don't see where it goes into detail on first burn do's and don'ts. Does anyone know of official first fire guidelines for this stove? I want to make sure I follow something if it exists.

 

[begreen]

Looking Good! For breaking in I like to burn a small kindling fire first, just a few sticks and let it burn out and the stove cool down. Then for the second fire add a few small 2-3" stick on the kindling. Let the fire burn out and the stove cool down. For the third fire add 2-3 four inch splits to take the stove top up to about 400F. Then for the last break-in fire load the stove at least half full for the paint break-in fire and take the stove up to 500-600F. Be sure to have some windows open for the last fire and maybe a fan pointing out to exhaust fumes.

Measuring stove top temp could be a challenge due to the convective top lid. It may take an IR thermometer.

 

[bhd21478]

Gang,

As mostly everyone else has said on here once, I've been lurking for quite some time reading and learning about what I like, what is required, what is preference, etc.

We have picked out the Hearthstone Manchester and are just waiting on the install. Well, the stove company came out and installed the hearth and wall "art" and now I have questions about the way I should/can have the pipe exit the stove and subsequently then the ceiling.

When the stove installers came out for the initial quote, I was told that we could take the double wall pipe out of the top of the stove about 8 ft, 45 it, take it over another 6 ft or so on an angle up (following the dormer ceiling line), 45 once more and then go straight out the ceiling. Now, all this being said, I know that any time you add angled pipe, you run the chance of causing draft issues. However, I would rather not have to run it straight up from this location, as this is on the front of our house and would probably have to be quite tall to get it past the peak of the roof like I understand that it needs to be.

Should I a) get over the fact that it needs to go straight up and hope that it does not become our focal point outside our b) move forward with the double 45s and hope that the runs allow for enough draft?

View attachment 171272

Thanks for helping with my (hopefully not stupid) questions.

Do ya still like your manchester?We have one coming in the next month or so. We have a basement install with metal fab pipe. I would love some more input on the stove. thanks. Brandon

 

[diesel59]

Do ya still like your manchester?We have one coming in the next month or so. We have a basement install with metal fab pipe. I would love some more input on the stove. thanks. Brandon

Unfortunately, we had to move shortly after getting it installed, so we only had 4 or 5 good burns before the weather turned. While we were there, I really did like it. The side-loading door was a big plus. Also, it was a very attractive stove that put off good heat. The only con that I can think of is that while the firebox is nearly 3.0 cu ft, it was very shallow. North/south loading was almost impossible unless your splits were cut very short. It would be good for loading oak north/south since smaller splits season faster.

The house we moved to has 3 gas fireplaces (boo!), one being a ventless. We are going to tear it out, build a nice stone hearth and find another stove to put in here. Not sure if I would go back to it with other options available, but I will definitely seriously consider it. The wife loved the look of it, but she won't be loading it or keeping up with it

Let me know if you have anymore specific questions.

Here is a pic of the final product:

 

[bhd21478]

thanks for the info. ive never loaded a stove north and south before. I had a jotul insert and always loaded long ways. Is there some advantage to loading the other way.

 

[begreen]

N/S loading is not really an option with shallow firebox stoves. The advantages to N/S loading are that the wood can't roll up against the glass, this allow fuller loading of the stove. The fire also can ignite easier with the air traveling the length of the splits instead of against the face of the sideways splits in an E/W load. Neither are a show-stopper and sometimes a shallower stove makes installation easier.

 

[Woody Stover]

If an E-W loader has andirons, like my Keystone, you can jam it full and not worry about anything rolling into the glass except maybe a hot coal or two.
That Manchester certainly is a looker!

 

[diesel59]

If an E-W loader has andirons, like my Keystone, you can jam it full and not worry about anything rolling into the glass except maybe a hot coal or two.
That Manchester certainly is a looker!

Thanks! I wish it was still ours

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