Marginal pine?

[Ctwoodtick]

So we all know that burning marginal wood in general is inefficient and not safe. My question is is there any difference in chimney buildup between marginal pine and marginal hardwood of the same moisture content? I thought some pine I had was dry...but stove performance told different story. Only used several sticks before I caught on and will save this stuff for next...and will top cover from here on in.
Thanks in advance

 

[Little Digger]

As far as wood burning goes, treat ALL wood the same. If you wouldn't burn hardwood that is marginal, don't burn softwood that is marginal either. Both hard and softwoods have creosote, though pine has the tendency to be less. Still, burning marginal wood will cause a more than normal buildup in either case.

Save your marginal wood for later in the season or better yet, save it for next season.

 

[Fred Wright]

Pine (and sweet gum) have high resin content and can cause creosote buildup if not fully dried. It's important that these species be cured well.

If you remove the bark and cross stack, your pine splits will dry faster.

 

[jrems]

Check it with a moisture meter. I have some Norway pine that's reading 15-18% and it does not seem to catch fire easily. It seems to burn terrible by itself. Mix it with some maple and it's a different story. It's also fine if you add it to a hot coal bed. I think different pines burn differently.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Check it with a moisture meter. I have some Norway pine that's reading 15-18% and it does not seem to catch fire easily. It seems to burn terrible by itself. Mix it with some maple and it's a different story. It's also fine if you add it to a hot coal bed. I think different pines burn differently.

You know, it's funny you mentioned that. The bit of pine I used was testing in 19-22% range, but burned like stuff in mid 30s. I tested again after this pine has been my basement for a few weeks and it's testing even lower, around 15 percent- on fresh split face. Is there a species correction factor that could be coming into play here. I've heard that pine - even on its own burns very hot. Moisture meter tests my palm at 31%. Info/ guidance needed. Thx

 

[jrems]

Yeah, it's the same here. It kinda just smolders and burns slow unless the firebox is already hot or mixed with other wood. I know it's dry. It just seems to behave strange for pine. 2x4's burn fast and crazy. Most of it is blue spruce and Norway pine. I have over a cord of it so I'll find a way to burn it this winter. Seems to burn fine mixed with other wood.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Yeah, it's the same here. It kinda just smolders and burns slow unless the firebox is already hot or mixed with other wood. I know it's dry. It just seems to behave strange for pine. 2x4's burn fast and crazy. Most of it is blue spruce and Norway pine. I have over a cord of it so I'll find a way to burn it this winter. Seems to burn fine mixed with other wood.

Thanks for the info, appreciate it, fellow ct burner

 

[Wood Duck]

I wonder if your moisture meters read differently in pine than in hardwoods, and so the pine reading isn't as accurate as the hardwood reading.

 

[Paulywalnut]

I get scrap two by fours and split them up for kindling. The only pine I burn. I'm going to check the moisture content.
I did find some beautiful rounds of some kind of pine at the landscape dump. I grabbed about ten of them. I split them and they're seasoning for a few years. I'll burn them and report.

 

[Seanm]

Is there a species correction factor that could be coming into play here

Yes there is. I've seen only a few calibration charts and one had it at 5 % off. I tried to get one for my moisture meter but the company never got back to me and I didn't try after that. I burn lots of lodgepole pine. I'm able to get decent sized splits to ignite off of meager coals no problem with stove top temps below 300 so Id say for lodgepole pine at least its quick to ignite when dry. Some is lower but much of mine will measure on my meter 12%- 20% but I don't worry much as it acts like dry wood does, quick to catch, hot, no smoke after a short time, clean glass.... This seems to be the opposite of what youre dealing with. If you are getting 22% and have to mix it with other wood than its probably not dry but my experience comes from lodgepole. Did that stuff that tested lower work any better or have you not tried it yet?

 

[Jay106n]

I am using a log or 2 of pine to get my fires started. They are registering at 9% on my Stihl moisture meter on fresh splits. They are 1 year seasoned. They light up right away as soon as they touch flame, doesn't last long but burn well.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Yes there is. I've seen only a few calibration charts and one had it at 5 % off. I tried to get one for my moisture meter but the company never got back to me and I didn't try after that. I burn lots of lodgepole pine. I'm able to get decent sized splits to ignite off of meager coals no problem with stove top temps below 300 so Id say for lodgepole pine at least its quick to ignite when dry. Some is lower but much of mine will measure on my meter 12%- 20% but I don't worry much as it acts like dry wood does, quick to catch, hot, no smoke after a short time, clean glass.... This seems to be the opposite of what youre dealing with. If you are getting 22% and have to mix it with other wood than its probably not dry but my experience comes from lodgepole. Did that stuff that tested lower work any better or have you not tried it yet?

Have not tried the drier stuff yet. I will be using the pine next season at this point. I may be falling into the old wives tale here, but with me having burned a couple arm loads of the marginal pine, would the resulting creosote be any worse/flammable compared to marginal hardwood. I actually took a quick look at very top of chimney and saw the liner had a immeasurably thin black coating similar to what you might see on firebricks on a cold start, that burns off pretty quick. The black coating was not shiny, not flaky. Btw, is there any major differences amongst different colors of soot/ creosote?

 

[Seanm]

Have not tried the drier stuff yet. I will be using the pine next season at this point. I may be falling into the old wives tale here, but with me having burned a couple arm loads of the marginal pine, would the resulting creosote be any worse/flammable compared to marginal hardwood. I actually took a quick look at very top of chimney and saw the liner had a immeasurably thin black coating similar to what you might see on firebricks on a cold start, that burns off pretty quick. The black coating was not shiny, not flaky. Btw, is there any major differences amongst different colors of soot/ creosote?

I think you will be fine especially if you say it was only a few arm loads. You said it.... its not shiny nor flaky. Ive never had the black shiny stuff but hear its hard to get rid of but not impossible. I would keep an eye on your flue and if you get uneasy run your brush through it so you sleep better at night. When you do this measure the amount that you get each time so that you are able to analyze why you have more or less than last time you swept. I wouldnt think twice about burning any kind of wood as longs as its been given adequate time to dry. Happy burning!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I think you will be fine especially if you say it was only a few arm loads. You said it.... its not shiny nor flaky. Ive never had the black shiny stuff but hear its hard to get rid of but not impossible. I would keep an eye on your flue and if you get uneasy run your brush through it so you sleep better at night. When you do this measure the amount that you get each time so that you are able to analyze why you have more or less than last time you swept. I wouldnt think twice about burning any kind of wood as longs as its been given adequate time to dry. Happy burning!

Thanks, that's what I figured. Happy burning your way too.