I don't know if anyone has covered this, but it may be prudent to have a high spot in the system where you could release air, or maybe I didn't see that in your design. I have a pipe going up 2 1/2 ' (.75 meters) with a brass plug in my 1904 house in the upstairs with a boiler system. Sometimes air gets in there so bad it slows or stops the flow of water.I have a Masonary heater and am looking to tie the following drawing into it. Feedback on the design would be appreciatated.
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I bought the house and the Masonary heater was already in it, 1837 stone house with an addition in 2006 and the construction of the Masonary. When I bought the place 2 years ago, the stainless pipe coming out of the heater wasn’t hooked up to anything and because I am trying not to use any propane and rely on a pellet stove and the Masonary heater, the basement gets cool. I bought two earlier 1900s cast iron rads and decided to see if it would work.I don't know if anyone has covered this, but it may be prudent to have a high spot in the system where you could release air, or maybe I didn't see that in your design. I have a pipe going up 2 1/2 ' (.75 meters) with a brass plug in my 1904 house in the upstairs with a boiler system. Sometimes air gets in there so bad it slows or stops the flow of water.
I turn on the supply water, and make sure the pump is running and slowly loosen the plug. I can hear the air release.
I've been wanting to build a masonary mass stove in the house. My wife has not wanted that much construction going on in the house.
How long did it take for you to build yours?
Really? 30 PSI? A standard well system in a house runs 45-50 PSIThose are some pretty high pressures. If you had a correctly functioning proper hydronic relief valve, it should have blown off. I would aim for 20psi max.
A well system is not a hydronic system.Really? 30 PSI? A standard well system in a house runs 45-50 PSI
Thank You,With my pressurized system, I was told by Gary Switzer (builder of my boiler) told me that pressure should be 10% of temperature. 180F=18psi. The pressure relief valve on my system is set to 30psi. It has blown once or twice when I didn’t have the pressure adjusted right, but I do heat my system to over 200F regularly.
Just FYI- check the relief valve at least once yearly, by manually relieving it with the lever, and also by intentionally over-pressurizing the system (with cold water). They can get stuck shut.
One thing I neglected to mention was to stop the output or end of loop with a valve to really apply pressure on the air vent when you are releasing air.I bought the house and the Masonary heater was already in it, 1837 stone house with an addition in 2006 and the construction of the Masonary. When I bought the place 2 years ago, the stainless pipe coming out of the heater wasn’t hooked up to anything and because I am trying not to use any propane and rely on a pellet stove and the Masonary heater, the basement gets cool. I bought two earlier 1900s cast iron rads and decided to see if it would work.
Thank You for the input on the air vent, I bought one yesterday and added it to the loop, it is the high point of the system. Got it all hooked up today, tonight’s fire will be the test.
They can get stuck shut...and when exercising them they all too often weep afterward...classic danged if you do, danged if you don't situationJust FYI- check the relief valve at least once yearly, by manually relieving it with the lever, and also by intentionally over-pressurizing the system (with cold water). They can get stuck shut.
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