Maul repair

[pulldownclaw]

I've got a fiberglass handled 8lb maul that I've had for a few years that has been pretty good, but the head is starting to get a little loose. When I look at the top of it I can see some of the plastic casing that holds the head on is starting to crumble away. Can I do anything to prolong its life? Maybe some serious caulk in there to minimize the wiggling and crumbling? And after the head eventually does come off, have people had luck putting new handles on, or do you just use your old head as a wedge and go get that new purty maul you've been eyeing? ;-P

 

[Eric Johnson]

I would smear some good epoxy over the cracked area and try to work some up inside the head if you can. Might buy you some time.

When the handle eventually dies, you can replace it with another fiberglass handle, or a wooden one. I prefer wood. Use lots of epoxy on both.

 

[cmonSTART]

Just be careful, because when it fails, it could fly quite a ways. I had an axe this year with a fiberglass handle that let go on me and boy did it take a trip. It let go at just the right time. I ended up putting the head on a new hickory handle.

 

[sgcsalsero]

I would smear some good epoxy over the cracked area and try to work some up inside the head if you can. Might buy you some time.

When the handle eventually dies, you can replace it with another fiberglass handle, or a wooden one. I prefer wood. Use lots of epoxy on both.

Eric, what kind do you use, seems like there are many to choose from, Thanks

 

[colsmith]

The problem with replacing the handle is that they generally charge as much for the darn handles as for a new maul on sale. The handles seem not to go on sale. We have used copious amounts of duct tape on our first maul where the handle is cracking under the head. It has a wooden handle, the only replacement handle the right shape costs the same price as the original maul (which I only bought 2 years ago) so I refuse to buy it. We bought a new maul from Sears, a Craftsman, so that if (when) it falls apart they will replace it for us at no charge. At least I hope Sears still has that policy. I still use the old maul sometimes but watch it carefully.

 

[thephotohound]

Some -

I agree. How do you replace a broken maul handle? With a new maul! As for Sears... they'll claim that you "abused" it... they'll offer you a new one, alright... for $30.

 

[Eric Johnson]

I would smear some good epoxy over the cracked area and try to work some up inside the head if you can. Might buy you some time.

When the handle eventually dies, you can replace it with another fiberglass handle, or a wooden one. I prefer wood. Use lots of epoxy on both.

Eric, what kind do you use, seems like there are many to choose from, Thanks

My maul originally had a fiberglass handle, but it didn't last long. I replaced it with a white ash sledge hammer handle. I believe they're less than $10 at Home Depot/Lowe's.

 

[babalu87]

My 6lb maul (had a fiberglass handle) has one of the GIANT holes in it, I have yet to find something other than a grub hoe handle that will fit it. The grub hoe handle is too short.

I use the 8 for everything but the 6 would be nice to have when the handle on the 8lb breaks.

 

[Eric Johnson]

^^^It is. That's when you realize how much better an 8 pounder is for most chunks.

 

[sgcsalsero]

All, Sears will honor their policy, a have gone thru 3 axes in the last year and a half, I actually told them last time to give me store credit but they said they couldn't and just to keep coming in whenever axe breaks (rarely use now, use a 6lb and 8lb maul).

The 8lb true temper maul with hickory handle is $17 and change at a local Walmart, $4 better than Lowes and $8 better than Ace Hardware. Wood handles I believe were in the $9 range.

Eric, sorry I was asking about the kind of epoxy you use.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Sorry about that. I go for the slower-drying marine stuff. You don't want brittle. You want something that dries relatively slow and makes a tougher bond than the fast-setting epoxy.

The critical thing is to keep the head from moving on the handle, because that's what's killed most of the handles I've ever trashed. If you slather your leftover glue over the top where the end grain of the handle is exposed (assuming a wooden handle), it will help keep moisture out of there, and moisture is another maul handle killer. With wood, it causes the grain to swell and contract, which tends to loosen up the head. And over time, it will rot the wood at the top of the handle to the point where the maul head one day will just break right off.

You're not going to limp through that one with duct tape.