I know this is going to start a huge debate, but go ahead and bring it because I was pretty frustrated in the woods yesterday. I was hot enough to switch sides….go from Husq to Stihl and just might. I actually needed to cool off before I wrote this note because I was so annoyed at my Husqvarna 555 AutoTune. I would say about ½ way through a tank of gas I stopped the saw and didn’t start it up for 10 minutes. So I consider this a ‘warm’ saw. I couldn’t get the damn thing to run again. This AT is a mystery. When the saw is cold it works perfectly, but warm….forget it. I actually read the manual and understand the correct procedure to start it ‘warm’ and that has worked flawlessly for a few weeks until yesterday. This saw is only a year or so old and it’s frustrating. I have a homeowner grade Husq 350 that I use as a backup and it runs ridiculously predicable. One pull with choke, 2nd pull it burps, turn choke off and pull and it starts on the 3rd. It’s been years since it hasn’t started like that…even with old gas. I could set my watch to it…..it’s absolutely awesome. I talked with a few shops about the 555AT and it sounds like the computer may need to be reset. If I were to buy a Stihl MS261 would I have to get it reset if I had problems? Are they a bit easier to work on? Do you need the Autotune computer? Maybe my detuned 562XP (555) will work awesome after this adjustment, but what if it happens again? Don’t get me wrong, I can deal with issues on saws….I have had all sorts of issues occur on pro and non-pro saws so I can tolerate a lot, but for all of a sudden my practically new 555 to not want to start…..it’s brutal. Any thoughts? I’d like to switch to Stihl and maybe just go with a pro 50cc saw. I know both Stihl and Husq have their homeowner / landowner / pro grade lines. I just want a predictable saw again! I’m hoping Stihl doesn’t have the same technology.
Maybe switching to Stihl (because of Husq AutoTune)
- Thread starter ampamp
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I don't know much about the autotune saws, but most of the reviews are great. Sorry you have had a problem.
I hate computers and that is why I went with a 346 instead of a 550. The 346 is just an awesome saw and a dream to run. The 261 Stihl is a great saw as well and is not autotune.
I hate computers and that is why I went with a 346 instead of a 550. The 346 is just an awesome saw and a dream to run. The 261 Stihl is a great saw as well and is not autotune.
For decades Stihl and Husqvarna made saws with 4 things in mind: power, weight, reliability, durability. Now those 4 attributes are an afterthought because some stuffed shirt decided chainsaw emissions were killing the planet. Now they must first run "clean," and power, weight, reliability and durability can go sit in the back of the bus. I have no first hand experience with the new saws, but I wouldn't think the new Stihls would be any better. Find a pre-EPA model of either make.
Some good observatoions.
Might be wise to let the new saws evolve for a couple years to get the bugs ironed out.
Is their any way to bypass the auto-tune computer & just have the coil feed the spark plug ?
Might be wise to let the new saws evolve for a couple years to get the bugs ironed out.
Is their any way to bypass the auto-tune computer & just have the coil feed the spark plug ?
I'm guessing it's the guy that calls the shots. Oh well. My main point remains in tact and I get by with plenty of borderline material.
Well, Stihl has auto tune saws as well, called M-Tronic. So far it is only on the 441 in the USA. It is also on the 241 that is not sold here.
Blame John Deere for forcing the EPA issue for chainsaws in the US. They thought they were going to corner the market with their clean technology, but it backfired and they are no longer in the hand tool market. The EU is also forcing changes for better AV on saws.
Still a lot of good used pre-EPA saws out there from Husky and Stihl. I think my 361s should last me the rest of my lifetime. Though I like my 211 which does not seem bad for a smogged saw. It runs better and has more power than my 210 ever had, and its smoother.
Blame John Deere for forcing the EPA issue for chainsaws in the US. They thought they were going to corner the market with their clean technology, but it backfired and they are no longer in the hand tool market. The EU is also forcing changes for better AV on saws.
Still a lot of good used pre-EPA saws out there from Husky and Stihl. I think my 361s should last me the rest of my lifetime. Though I like my 211 which does not seem bad for a smogged saw. It runs better and has more power than my 210 ever had, and its smoother.
The prospect of only being able to buy EPA approved computer controlled chainsaws in the future caused my case of CAD. I have enough to last my lifetime. Just need to get going on saws for the grand kids.
My 346 is on its 3rd tank and I imagine I'll be able to get parts for my 372 for a long time to come. I'm all set too 
Jack Fate
Feeling the Heat
this was why I went 362 instead of the husky at that point .And ask the question does this husky need a computer to fix here on this forum from a thread that was talking of that 562xp & got NO response ( I know that was somewhat of a thread hijack) but figured someone to chime in, 
NOPE .......
Did find complaints on that saw when I googled it
that's ok cause I got no husky support local
And yes the epa is down on 2 strokes in general
Interesting I now think my brothers huskys may be auto tune as well, could be a 555 &575 if I remember correctly ( they are fairly new )
Hope you get things good again
NOPE .......Did find complaints on that saw when I googled it
that's ok cause I got no husky support local
And yes the epa is down on 2 strokes in general
Interesting I now think my brothers huskys may be auto tune as well, could be a 555 &575 if I remember correctly ( they are fairly new )
Hope you get things good again
MrWhoopee
Minister of Fire
I have had similar "warm" start problems with my Redmax G5300, which has a full drain back carburettor. Finally found the secret. I pump the purge bulb (at least 10 times), then hold the throttle wide open (which setting the choke doesn't do) with one hand while I pull the starter rope with the other.It's a little hard to hold the saw with one hand, but it usually starts on the first pull. Don't know if it applies, just a similar problem.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Some day, 40 years from now, your grandson will stand quietly by, afraid to interrupt grandpa in his frustrated tirade about this "new fangled saw" his grandson just brought home from the store, which he cant get running again after a 10 minute warm-up.
I've got a 555 with a MM, saw has been reliable as the day is long. Starts cold, starts hot, don't matter. I don't mean to be presumptuous, as you said you read the manual (something I've never done), but how did you try to start it hot? You stated:
"I actually read the manual and understand the correct procedure to start it ‘warm’ and that has worked flawlessly for a few weeks until yesterday. This saw is only a year or so old and it’s frustrating. I have a homeowner grade Husq 350 that I use as a backup and it runs ridiculously predicable. One pull with choke, 2nd pull it burps, turn choke off and pull and it starts on the 3rd. It’s been years since it hasn’t started like that…even with old gas."
With a "warm" husky you pull the choke out then push it back in to set high idle then give her a tug. Once again, I assume this is what you did, just wanted to verify as much since you didn't specifically say, and you did mention your starting procedure for a "cold" saw.
"I actually read the manual and understand the correct procedure to start it ‘warm’ and that has worked flawlessly for a few weeks until yesterday. This saw is only a year or so old and it’s frustrating. I have a homeowner grade Husq 350 that I use as a backup and it runs ridiculously predicable. One pull with choke, 2nd pull it burps, turn choke off and pull and it starts on the 3rd. It’s been years since it hasn’t started like that…even with old gas."
With a "warm" husky you pull the choke out then push it back in to set high idle then give her a tug. Once again, I assume this is what you did, just wanted to verify as much since you didn't specifically say, and you did mention your starting procedure for a "cold" saw.
Same with warm Stihl saws, one pull on idle, and if it does not start flip the lever to 'fast idle' or half choke, and it will almost always start that way. I dunno about M-Tronic saws though, never owned one.
You are too kind. In 40 years I will be in my mid 90s! By golly, I will be one heck of an old geezer by then. Gas will be $40 a gallon at this rate as well. We will only be able to afford running the chainsaw on special occasions, like Christmas eve.
40 years from now my grandkids should be using a light saber. Remote controlled and battery powered.
When my grandpa was born their was no such thing as a 'tree felling machine'
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